In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Matt did a full report at
http://planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=5952
This morning we reported that James Pearson had turned a few heads in Colorado making a flashed ascent of Secret Splendor, Font 8B. Unfortunately some Americans are now suggesting it may not be 8B, but 8A+. Although this wouldn't make James the first person to flash 8B it would still put him on a par with the world's very best and deserves a serious round of applause. We asked James about the trip and his ascent of the problem. He had this to say:
“Hello,
Got back yesterday morning. I have been in Colorado for just over 5 weeks, staying in Boulder with Simon Moore. It has been a very good trip, and I have really enjoyed myself. The climbing and the scenery is amazing, and currently my favorite place in The US.
In the past, whenever I have been on roadtrips, I have had long term projects, that take up all my time, skin and energy, leaving little chance to get on other problems.
On this trip, I decided to concentrate more on flashing problems than working on long term projects. I figured I would get to try loads of cool lines, and then if any in particular stood out from the rest, I could give them a few more tries and hopefully do them. Maybe I would even get lucky and flash something hard which would be a real confidence boost for me?
The ticklist you have on the site already is pretty much it (excluding sub V11), I also did this thing called Mirror Mask at Mount Evans which is given V11. It doesn’t really start in an obvious place, but there is an amazing, undone, ***** line leading up to it from a sit start. It climbs a steep (60degree), wide, double arete feature out of a boulder cave. The holds are all nice and the moves are superb. I did all the moves and was making some good links. I wanted to return on my last day to link the whole thing but sadly it got snowed out! It is one of the best undone lines I have ever seen and when done, may well be the hardest problem in Colorado!
The whole trip I had been putting off trying Nottin But Sunshine because I wanted to wait for a cold day to give me the best chance of flashing it. Most of the trip, the temps were quite warm in the park but on my last day up there they were quite pleasant (~10c) and the rock felt good. I warmed up on some easy stuff and then headed over to Nottin. Secret Splendor is just left of Nottin, and is similarly steep with similar sized holds. I figured I would have a few goes on this to finish warming up my fingers in prep for my attempt on Nottin. As I mentioned earlier, I was giving everything a flash attempt, and this was to be no exception. I sorted out the pads and refined the sequence in my head. Sitting down on the pads, I felt very nervous. I was almost shaking as I chalked my hands. I forced my self to calm down, chalked again, took the starting holds and pulled on.
The first move went with a little power grunt, concentrate on hitting the hold with your right hand well and at the same time you can’t release focus on your right foot on a small edge. For move two, you pull your body up high, get a left to hook and put tension through it. You keep your whole body still and tight and only your left hand moves slowly to a small irregular crimp, all the time keeping focused on your right foot staying on the edge. All I hear is my friend Adam shouting at me to keep going. Keeping your upper body rigid, move your feet up to get your right on a small square edge. Press hard on your toe to deform your boot rubber, if this foot blows, you will fall. Left foot floats in the air, you don’t want it on because it will take weight off your right foot meaning it is more likely to pop. My fingers were not great on the left hand crimp, but I could hear Adam’s shouts and curled my thumb over and boned really hard. Quick move, your body goes up, your right leg pushes and pulls at the same time and your right hand hits a big fat pinch with a tiny thumb catch. Keeping focus on your tension, move your left foot high and under your body, and pop for the slightly slopey top, and match onto the jug. A few easy moves are all that ramain, Adam telling me not to “£$%! up now” reminds me to take care and not relax until I am on the top.
