UKC

NEWS: Silvia Fitzpatrick climbs 8a+ in the Costa Blanca

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 Michael Ryan 10 Nov 2006
"She was so angry at the shitty weather and she was having trouble getting someone to hold her ropes that I think she took it out on the route."


More in the news..... http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 bluebrad 10 Nov 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Good effort Sylvia.

bluebrad
Sam M 10 Nov 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The route is called La Forqueta del diablo romocop and is just slopper after slopper!

The Wild Side has seen alot of new routing over the past few months and we have the topo if anywants wants a copy.

Email me on sam@theorangehouse.net

Sam Orange
 Paz 10 Nov 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Effort, etc.

Is she the south american lass with the gammy leg who worked at the Foundry but despite both of these impediments still climbed hard sport outside?

If so she's always been an inspiration.
Sam M 10 Nov 2006
In reply to Paz:

Yes she is!

..to see her walking around you would think she was an old granny (sorry Silvi x) but she is an amazing climber and an all round nice person.

She didnt even tell me till 3 days later and even then at the end of the day - modest or what!

Sam Orange
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: "so angry at the shitty weather". This doesn't sound like the Silvi I know!!

Famous last words: I have not seen rain yet....I love it though, not to have to think about the weather, just make a plan and go climbing you will NOT get rained off!!

Sorry Sil, just couldn't resist it!!

Brilliant news on the climb front, Well Done!!

Caroline (in wettest Wales)
SquamishRumourMill 15 Nov 2006
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"As she is 42 I am not sure if she is close to being the oldest women[sic] climbing that hard at the moment. "

How old's Lynn Hill then? Certainly older than 40 and still ticking off 8b+s.
OP Michael Ryan 16 Nov 2006
Sylvia sent us this email:

"The route I did in the Wild Side is called 'La forqueta del Diablo o Romocop' 8a+. 'Romo' in Spanish means sloper. It consists of 26 meters of very slopy holds that finish in a very precarious and balancy section on thin tufas 2/3 of the way up. After that, there are a few powerful moves on big tufas to reach an undercut from which you can clip the chain. The route is gently overhanging all the way up and very pumpy. From the start, you have to control the lactic invasion and remember to breath!

I did not understand the book description as there were not tats or double bolts on it!. It was recommended to me by a local climber as I was asking around for a good project. First time I tried it I thought it was impossible. But, as it did not hurt my finger skin- being so smooth and rounded- I decided to persevere for a bit -after all, the moves were nice!

In the end it took me 3 days and six attempts to do it. I was very
happy -and surprised- to do it on a rainy and misty day too!! I must have had 'my lights on' that day..."

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