UKC

I have heard that the Aberdeen based climber Malcolm Kent has just soloed the shining wall of Gasherbrum IV. Is this the most amazing ascents of all time????
Hats off to the boy.

In reply to The Cat:

WOw ... if its true

In reply to The Cat:

Would be an amazing achievement.

Think Bob from on here has been on that mountain?

In reply to DougG:

We tried it in 1986, when the mountain hadn't had a second ascent since Bonatti in 1958 - Voytek Kurtyka and Robert Schauer didn't actually summit when they climbed the west face (the shining wall), though to all intents and purposes they are the effective second ascensionists.

We were trying the west ridge which is to the left of the face but didn't really get anywhere on it - it was just too dangerous. So we moved round to the South face and got to around 7100m on that before giving up.

If the report is true then this is an amazing ascent.

boB

In reply to The Cat:

He has a pretty impressive CV

In reply to nz Cragrat: well impressive.. a total awesome all rounder..

In reply to Bob:

The Karakoram must have been busy that year, apart from K2 there was a British team on Chogolisa too I think?

In reply to nz Cragrat:

agreed.

http://www.transition-extreme.com/climb/backtransistion.htm

In reply to John Kirk:

yeah I had a look - and he is a Production Geologist !!! as in how does he manage it !!

In reply to nz Cragrat:

Bloody Clarke Kent, not Malcom Kent!!

In reply to DougG:

Yes, there was a star British team on K2 - Al Rouse, the Burgess twins. The team on Chogolisa was Andy Fanshawe's lot. There was also Greg Child's team on GIV - they made the second ascent; Wanda Ruciewicz (sp?) on K2 and a whole host of others.

boB

In reply to The Cat:

I imagine other people have contacted you already about this absurd claim, but anyway I'm pretty sure this Malcolm is the the same strange character I met in Chamonix a few winters ago. He was making all sorts of claims for Andy Parkin type solo exploits which just instantly you knew to be utter bullshit. I met somebody later who'd known him from the Leeds wall & confirmed him as a fantasist of the highest order.Shame really, as he wasn't a bad lad, just delusional.

In reply to The Cat:

Just been thinking some more about this insane fantasy. Not only is it absurd, but an insult to the memory of arguably the most talented & bold alpinist of all time, Slavko Sveticic, who died attempting to solo this face, and whose attempt some say was inpired by another fantasist (fellow countryman Cesen).
At least Cesen was a genuinely very talented rockclimber, alpinist & Himalayan performer who for whatever motivations seems to have taken things into strange realms.
Malcolm however seems to just be in deeply delusional fantasy land. From what I saw of his climbing ability he could barely get up a F6a never mind 8c!

In reply to Bag:

Mistaken identity?

In reply to The Cat: What an utter spanner!
Care in the Community I reckon!

In reply to nz Cragrat: The guy posing in the photos on his work website, although partially obscured, I'm pretty sure is the same guy with the tall tales that I met in Chamonix a few winters ago. He hero-worshipped J.C.Lafaille. This type of delusion I've found to be quite common in some climbers, but not to this quite insane level!
This reminds me of the case of Donald Crowhurst, a sailor in the late '60s whose fantasies led to his eventual suicide.

In reply to Bag: have you read the mark twight article on Tomo Cesen, your reaction is very similar to the reaction most in relalation to his achievments.

In reply to Bag:

http://www.transition-extreme.com/climb/backtransistion.htm

Well he's got a nice website write-up. I must admit, I can barely climb 6a some days, and wouldn't necessarily be able to fake up some of these pictures!

In reply to Bag: If that's him in those photos on the Transition-extreme website they look pretty convincing. They would be hard to fake or photo shop. If there real somebody had to take them and the truth will out. Who are you anyway??

In reply to hutchm:

I wasn't casting any aspertions on the guy for climbing 6a with difficulty, simply drawing attention to the slight gap in reality between this and claiming to be whizzing up 8c's!
If this crazy story had the slightest validity the whole world would be beating it's way to his door to bow the knee.

In reply to Will1:

Sorry for not having a user profile yet, I'll remedy that soon. I'm just another climber, but know bullshit when I hear it, see it, and smell it.
It's the easiest thing in the world to pose superficially "impressive" climbing photos.

In reply to The Cat: If malcolm or anyone has any concrete info I'm very interested in this story (I was due to try it this summer although definately not solo). All I know is that he didn't have a permit but that hasn't stopped some.

In reply to Bag: Soloing Shining Wall would be an amazing achievement and I’m sure he’ll have back up in the form of Sherpa’s at BC and others who will have seen him. I doubt anybody would make these claims without any proof. Also he isn’t making these claims, ‘The Cat’ is, who doesn’t have a profile either!

In reply to Will1: Good point about his not making the claim himself, but "Cat". Interesting that "Cat" hasn't been posting anything! Do you not think too that Malcolm himself might have noticed by now that a slight doubting kerfuffle is going on and posted something.
If any of the claims on that site are true, not just the hardest route in history solo one, I'll eat my icescrews.

In reply to The Cat: Where did you get the info from about this ascent and when was the ascent done?
It strikes me as being extremely late in the year for such a major karakorum ascent to be taking place. Most karakorum routes are done through summer up until sept.with snowfall and exteremely cold temps usually hitting in Oct. However if it has been done it really is a major achievement in Himalayan/Karakorum climbing

In reply to Will1: Just a small point but they dont have sherpas in Pakistan.

In reply to L.A.: ok, porters then.

In reply to The Cat:

Surely somone must know:
1. If he is done some of the things he is supposed to have done...
2. In Pakistan attempting something and is capable
3.If this is a troll

In reply to nz Cragrat: The more you look at it the more doubtful these claims become. If Malcolm Kent is the same as Malcolm K of this site, then he was still scoping objectives in Jul or maybe he had just got back and was looking for new great challenges. Guess only the mods can tell us who’s who.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=194249&v=1#2826755

Does Shining Wall feature in Alpinist #4?

In reply to Bag:


See DEEP WATER it is all about the Crowhurst story, its Darlow Smithsons new film, it premiered at Kendal last Saturday. Very harrowing!

In reply to Ian Parnell: try Guy etc Ayberdeen is a small town

In reply to Henry Iddon:

Thanks Henry. I remember being really moved by the horrible protracted psychological nightmare the poor guy got himself into (and tragically out of). I'm actually feeling a bit guilty about being so "mouthy" about what is so obviously a potentially fragile personality. I do hope he's o.k. & this hasn't caused him too much grief.Sooner or later this was going to happen, but so public?
Malcolm, for what it's worth now, nobody really cares about any of this stuff that much. I hope you're o.k.

In reply to The Cat: Has the chap actually made these claims?

In reply to Anonymous: Seems to me this ‘Cat’ has stirred up a whole lot of sh*t for Mr Kent, which he probably intended to do.

In reply to Anonymous:

"Chap" can we take it you are member of the Alpine Club.....

Congratulations to him if its all true.

Just a few points though:

When I went to do Alcatraz last year it wasn't in condition as the final ice did not exist (I have shots). He may well have kept tooling to ice above and abalakov lower off. There were two massive stalactites on the route over 5 metres long each which would have given full rests at two points if care was taken not to break them - This would have greatly reduced the grade. I know Rich Purnell well and I know Alcatraz is not M13 anyway (the grade was the result of crazy world M Grade Claims at that time - difficult to understand if you've not done any Big M Routes or are not deeply immersed in that scene) - This was confirmed by Will Gadd at M11+. I have photo's from last season, but wanted to do it when it formed properly so headed for Lake City. No tracks existed to the crag then. Rich picked me up from the Airport this year so we talked at length about the route again. It is a classic nonetheless.

Also, I heard an unsubstantiated claim (rumour) that he possibly did Jedi Mind Tricks at Lake City. Unfortunately my mate Ryan Nelson and Jared Ogden who put the route up and were drilling another route beside it had their Drill Stolen. The Drill was there when I did the route. Mind tricks was also about to lose its ice when I left . No accusations being made here, but its all a bit funky, maybe just exceptional.

I hope he has done as claimed as its all very very impressive especially since Mind Tricks is desperate, It took me 5 days of mental hard work and that was after sending Game Over confirmed M13 in Austria 1st Redpoint.

I've been on the recieving end of disbelief before and its not nice. I had to provide Uncut Video evidence to the Austrian's for Game Over - Lucky Dave from Hot Aches films was filming - otherwise I'd be screwed.

Has he done Biographie F9a+ as well as the photo on the Transition site shows?

Note for Ian Parnell - we might not get on dude, especially since you are a master (yourself) of twisting others info to suit your own ends (Fontainalia et al) this might just be water of a ducks back. But you do very respectable routes nonetheless, all of which I'm sure are as true as mine. But by the sounds of it you have a vested interest in this issue as well with a possible attempt on the same route as he has claimed. Maybe this info is of use to you in getting an answer.


Scott Muir

By last year - I meant this season just past Winter 05/06 for the record.

Scott

In reply to Scott F Muir: Thanks for the info Scott. I think it's reported that Malcolm is planning this coming season to try the hardest routes in Canada, although how this defined by him I'm not sure.

Re: The PS, not sure what you meant by Fontainalia - if its re my Climb editorial I didn't choose the picture and suggested another. Anyway hopefully all those polemics of past by both of us can become water under the bridge. Good luck this winter and with the wall.

In reply to Ian Parnell: Have either yourself or Scott Muir actually met and talked to Malcolm?
These replies are either incredibly gullible or very darkly disingenuous.
I really have absolutely no axe to grind, but simply was totally amazed at the level of self deception. To me this was just an interesting story where I happened to have some personal knowledge.I have no personal animus against Malcolm at all, just a keen interest in climbing, and the truth is important (although sometimes painful).

Ian

I don't want to go into detail on this site as its not the place and could potentially be damaging to both parties. Its not in my interest to damage fellow climbers especially when its our profession. I'd rather team up and do good things and channel our energies in positive directions. Some day we'll talk about it face to face and get it out the way.

Meantime have a great season yourself and if your passing the wall please feel free to stop by.

Scott

To all:

There is no man hunt from me, only the sharing of information. It was highlighted to me directly, by someone who met him recently and made similar claims and I was asked personally for more info - they also directed me to this post. I am sharing what I know - I have never met him so cannot pass judgement. I have spoken to other though outside of this who have met the discussed person and confirmed some of the above.

When you make claims at this level from having no known background or appear from nowhere it is inevitable that some suspicion will be present. When so much money, time and effort is spent by those operating at this level to do routes - claims made matter and should be open to justification especially when used commercially as has been demonstrated by Transition Extreme and the Shell deal.

Good Climbing

Scott Muir

In reply to Scott F Muir: This is becoming somewhat asinine by now. Actually I can't think of where else one is supposed to discuss this (admittedly distasteful) subject. When someone puts themselves out in public deliberately like Malcolm has done so outrageously with his sponsor-site, then I'm afraid they must expect this type of response.
Nobody is conducting a "manhunt", and for his sake I would love to be forced to choke on those screws. So Malcolm, please put me out of your misery, this Chestwigging must end.

In reply to Bag: gulity til proven inocent? eh?

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:

Hi Tom, the thing is I've met the lad. I don't really want to be posting anything any more, as I do feel like a bit of a dirty dog.
To me it was just an almost comical situation but on reflection the emotional fallout is potentially pretty profound. I honestly do not want to be causing pain to anybody.
However, counterbalancing those feelings are the ones generated by a deep love of climbing and it's history, so I'm veering between human empathy and what must appear savage in cold print.
i'm going to try and make this my last post on the subject- these sites are so damned addictive though!

In reply to Bag:

"on reflection the emotional fallout is potentially pretty profound."

Oh c'mon it's a bloody web forum for Christ's sake not a judicial hearing!

Bottom line, climber's will always bullshit, and they'll also always do amazing routes. Malcom Kent - like everyone else - will be universally respected for what he does, when and if he actually does it. His claims are so utterly gob-smackingly and outrageously jaw-droppingly amazing that people will want to get to know him and go climbing with him, so he'll no doubt demonstrate first-hand his awesome abilities. At the moment he's living in Aberdeen where there are climbers capable of climbing very hard across all disciplines, so he's amongst friends.

Watch this space...

In reply to The Cat:

I would not believe all that you read. All i would ask for is some witnesses to these claims. As said, when a company is shelling out big money they have a right not to get the wool pulled over their eyes. These are big claims from some one i have had previous experience before now, in they ways of deception. I dont like to bring up the past cause i just hope every would be honest and learn from their past.

Malc if i was you i would wrap the whole thing up before it comes back to bit you. you seem to be making a rod for your own back.

In reply to Jordan: as in Jordan Buys

In reply to The Cat: If this guy is so great how come his comp climbing is so poor?

http://britishclimbingteam.com/results/bicc_results/bicc_05/06_round_1_-_ed...

In reply to The Cat:

Huge thread this.

So did he do it?