UKC

Right further to my previous thread hopefully i've got it right this time. I'm looking for info on the Cassin Route on cima grande e.g. best time of year, topos, beta, basically the usual?

so anyone able to help me? Or failing that correvct me again if i've got the wrong mtn.

Oh & cheers guys.

In reply to Frank4short: Sorry mate, I replied to the other post but you still have the wrong mountain.

Do you mean the Cassin on the Cima Ovest (the right hand of the three towers) or the Comici on the Cima Grande (the middle tower).

Again, I did the Comici on the same in Aug 2003 and it was bone dry (apart from the top gully which was dripping). If cold, it would obviously be very icy on the top bit which while it isn't the crux, would be very fun. I guess you should wait to see how early other people have climbed it.

Amazing route - E2/3 for the bottom 9 pitches free but loads of pegs to pull on. The top half is probably about HVS overall when not icy.

Ben

In reply to BenTiffin: i take it you didn't have any ice kit at all? just climbing stuff, water, trainers and a jacket.

In reply to Frank4short:

some stuff on here to peruse, become an expert;

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/info/search.php?forum=0&dates=1&na...

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: ice gear just gets in the way on verglas. and climbing steep E3 for 5 pitches or so i wouldn't what a axe poking my arse.

You should try the classic climbs of the dolomites. its a great book with many detailed topos with some great routes in there.

It is selective and some of the routes can be a bit overran over pegged and over rated but there are some real life changing gems in there. including the Comici route.

I spent a few hours last year checking out the route, as its was snowing on the summit and iam not a fan of nut key climbing. Going to have a shot at it next summer if the weathers warmer.

Cheers

Ian

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Nooo. The hardest thing on the route was trying to second the last (easy) pitch with cramp in my biceps and they were locking my arms straight. Thankfully, we had eaten some salted peanuts about an hour before which started kicking in. I've never felt anything like it in my life!!!

The only snow/ice on the Tre Cime that summer was in one of the descent gullies between the Cima Grande and Piccola.

Ben

In reply to BenTiffin:


Yea there was a fare amount of snow and ice in the gully this summer. iam guessing it was left from the winter as the snow we had in august was rain at that height, it was nothing a nut key cant handle and a bit of "controlled sledging".

In reply to BenTiffin:

You and Tom are talking about different routes I think, I know he was thinking of the Badile earlier.

In bad weather you can have a waterfall on the Comici, you may be the fastest party int ehworld but if you get stuck behind a slow party you will get caught in it if the weather changes, and then a bivvi, and maybe verglasssed rock, and then maybe a hairy rappel off.

In reply to sutty: I wouldn't like to try to abb of the Cima grande. its very overhanging.

I got talking to dutch party on a E6 on the left side off the face, (i cant remember the name of the route). sieging it leaving a fixed line as they worked. half the team climbing the other team chilling. i think it was bolted but iam not sure.

10 meters away from the face there was a thunder storm in full rage and falling rocks. Just shows how steep the face is.

In reply to sutty: i'm refering to the comici route on the tri clima. e2/3 rock/aid route.

on the other thread i am refering to the cassin on the baidie. TD+ HVS rock route.

In reply to IanJackson:

If you walk along the bottom of the cliff and look carefully you will see a ridge of stones about 20ft out that have fallen from the higher bits of the route. You need to find a safe place to pass the 'stonefall barrier' to get to a distant viewing place for the first section.

Abbing off the route id not bad, just a bit overhanging and you could leave some tie in tat on some of the pegs to hold you in. Doing the same on the Brandler Hasse must have been hard with the sideways traverse on it when being put up.

In reply to sutty: Is Brandler Hasse bolted? the limestone looked very compact!

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Tre Cime...

In reply to everyone so far: Right guys thanks for the info so far. again though can someone tell me the technical grade for it? (as opposed to about e2) What's the best time of year to do it? Oh & finally anyone know where i can find a topo on line to check it out? Ain't had luck with google so far on that one.

In reply to Frank4short: it is in the classic dolimites climbs book. a great book, i had a copy until it drowned in storm escaping off a route in the dolis.

In reply to Frank4short:

some details here Frank;

http://www.summitpost.org/area/range/150212/tre-cime-di-lavaredo-drei-zinne...

http://www.montagna.org/node/4031

bookmark this next page and have a look round it for other routes;

http://www.bielefeldt.de/linksd.htm

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: What routes did you do in the dolomites? ower guide book is in a bad way too. i forgot to photocopy the topos

Tec grade for the route is about 5c but you can always peg pull. the route is around 3000m's. It burns the fitness of lungs pretty quick. Or maybe iam just fat?

No online topos which i have seen but you should order the classic guide book its worth it.

In reply to IanJackson: i was about 13 at the time. about 5 via feratiias.

guides route on the 5 sisters (can't remember its real name.

and this really good HS, can't remember it's name either, but it went up a massive flake. as we touched the top the lighten started and we had great fun abbing off in the pissing rain. i don't i could have been wetter back at the car. good memories though.

In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide: Do you plan of returning? its dirt cheep!