UKC

Graham's Grading Revolution

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Graham 01 Aug 2002
Coming soon to a venue near you:

Decimal E Grades!!!!! Da da daaaaaahhhh!

Three Pebble Slab E0.8 5a
Delectable Direct E0.9 5c
Millwheel Wall E1.0 5b
Great Peter E1.4 5b
Moyer's Buttress E1.5 5b
Kayak E1.7 5b
The Toy E1.8 5b
The Sentinel E2.0 5c
Predator E2.2 5c
Billy Whizz E2.5 5b
Quietus E2.5 5c
The Asp E3.3 6a
The Beautician E3.4 5c
The Knock E4.3 6a
The Snivelling E4.4 6a

Etc!



G
Andy Robinson 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham:
Surely 3PS is only E0.7 5a - I'm outraged......
 Chris Fryer 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham: i like it, although i thought Kayak was E1.785 5b.5
FH 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Chris Fryer:
> (In reply to Graham) i like it, although i thought Kayak was E1.785 5b.5

If in Yorkshire it would be E1.785 5b.5 P2.372
daveP 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham: Interesting thought. In this system, which route would equal Pi??

My vote is San Melas E3.1415926535897932384626433832795...........
 Matt 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham:
why not log the scale instead then most people would only climb one grade as the next one would be 10x harder. Also it would get rid of this E0 bo!!ocks as you can't log 0!
 Ricky Martin 01 Aug 2002
In reply to daveP: you missed a 7. 8th decimal in
daveP 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Ricky Martin: are you sure? this is the value returned by the calculator in windows.
 Mike Whittaker 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Andy Robinson:
> (In reply to Graham)
> Surely 3PS is only E0.7 5a - I'm outraged......

No it's HVS!

 Jon Greengrass 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Mike Whittaker: Spare a moments thought for those of us who'll never the grade of 3PS know because we seconded it *sob*
 Skyfall 01 Aug 2002
In reply to daveP:

well, you have it right up to the 23rd dec place at the least - I know because i memorised it as a child and never forgot it

 Mike Whittaker 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Jon Greengrass: Don't even look at it for 5 years, then go and solo it. Then you'll know.
 Skyfall 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

didn't your parents tell you - never ever second a classic route as one day you will probably want to lead it and you'll never be able to claim the on-sight....

I have a list of coveted routes I won't second as I'm saving them for the on-sight

He he
 Jon Greengrass 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Mike Whittaker: but you can't equate soloing to leading beacause, the onsight grade takes into account lead gear.


oh right.... i just got it, the gears pointless
 Jon Greengrass 01 Aug 2002
In reply to JonC: I'm never going climbing with you then, you selfish bastard
 Skyfall 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Jon Greengrass:

oh, it's alright, I'll let you have your glory, you can lead all the chop routes :0
Fiend 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham:

Infidel!

Heretic!

Cretin!
 John Gillott 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham:

Well done Graham! You're getting there. But I think I can improve on it. Each climb needs its own grade, which will allow it to be uniquely located wrt other climbs.

I call such a system a 'graded list'. This allows a climber to confidently launch up any route below the highest one he or she has successfully led, and to make progress up the list in the confident knowledge that the next one up is pretty much the same as the last one, only ever so slightly harder.

Our good friend Mike Whitaker has agreed to spend a few weeks compiling such a system for the whole of the UK, by creating consistency between all the existing variants on my novel idea. I'm sure you will agree that such a system cannot be improved upon and will settle all arguments once and for all.
 Mike Whittaker 01 Aug 2002
In reply to John Gillott: er I don't think I did! God I'm getting sucked back into RT, I promised myself that wasn't going to happen. Where are my pills?
 John Gillott 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Mike Whittaker:

That's the spirit Mike! Don't forget to delegate; Fiend can be your Peak rep. But do keep one or two for yourself. The Wobler, e.g, is not on the PGE list if I remember right. It might be a tricky one to place; that's the kind of thing that will require an executive decision.

Think of the accolades, the first comprehensive graded list for the UK; a unique addition to Hotpud, bound to make it a commercial success sufficient to see you secure in your old age.
Graham 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to Graham)
>
> Infidel!
>
> Heretic!
>
> Cretin!

Makes your E0 idea seem a bit shit really doesn't it.



G


 Graham Ad 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Fiend:
Infidel is 6a. Cretin is 5c. Only get a tech grade as they're on Sandstone :--)
Graham 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham Ad:

You look like you've got your hands up an enormous sheep's arse in your profile pic.

G
 Graham Ad 01 Aug 2002
In reply to Graham: An elephant's arse surely - it's too grey for a sheep. Now you come to mention it, it does!
No comment on you profile pic! )

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