UKC

Am planning a trip to the Lofoten islands next year and am wondering how to get there. Should we take the car or manage with public transport and foot power? Can anybody help me?

In reply to kos-d:
Drove this year and it made life much easier. Be prepared for a long slog up there and back, but having wheels is a definite plus. The weather was poor for much to the trip so we were able to stop off on the way at Romsdalen until the weather improved and then head north. It also gives you flexibilitiy to go on to the mainland and climb on Stetind and many of the other mountains around there. Don't constrain yourself to the crags in a very small areas on Lofoten. There is some great climbing, but frankly I wouldn't go all that way to climb something like Gandulf. I would and did go all that way to climb Presten.

Friends hired a car after flying there and spent a few weeks waiting for the weather to improve. They felt less inclined to cut their losses and head south as they had to return to drop their car off. We had the flexibility to arrive and go when we wanted weather wise.

If only we'd gone two weeks later. I hear it was wall to wall sunshine then.....

In reply to kos-d: Depending where you cross from, consider driving through Sweden rather than up Norway. When we were in Lofoten we met some French lads who had done it that way and they said it was easier and faster than wiggling around the Norwegian coast. They also stopped at lots of Swedish crags on the way up to do some sport climbing.

Once in Lofoten having a car helps a lot. You can camp at Kalle where there is a toilet, rather than add to the piles of shit and toilet paper below Gandalfvegen/Presten area.

In reply to TobyA: For sure it's more convenient to drive through Sweden. In fact, Norwegian truck drivers going from northern Norway to Oslo tend to choose to drive thru Sweden.

The quickest way would be to take the ferry to Göteborg then either follow the eastern coast past Stockholm, all the way up to Skellefteå, then cross over to Norway on road 95 (changes name to road 77 in Norway), or drive inland past Östersund, all the way up to Arjeplog before turning left up on road 95.

It will take about the same time for both options. More interesting stops along the coast though, esp for climbing.

In reply to jwi:

Hi Jonas

Any idea how long it takes?

J

In reply to Moacs: I would imagine it takes something like 14-15 hours to drive from Göteborg to Skellefteå, with a few stops and a healthy disrespect for speed limits. Then perhaps 6 hours from Skellefteå to Henningsvær. So all in all a bit more than 20 hours from Göteborg to Henningsvær. Map24.com thinks differently though, and claims it takes 31.5 hours via Oslo (going through Norway) and 34 hours driving through Sweden. I think map24 have no idea about traffic congestion in Norway in summer, and that they vastly overestimates peoples willingness to keep within speed limits in Sweden.

In reply to jwi:

I was stuck behind a police van somewhere up around Kiruna, he was doing the speed limit (good policeman, have a donut) but for the first time in about 400 kms were were in a line of about four vehicles. We debated whether they would fine us if we overtook (hence breaking the limit) and after awhile the cops slowed right down drove close to the side of the road and waved us past! As soon as they were out of view we went back to drving at 120 like before. I think they actually felt sorry for us and must get bored of causing the only traffic jams in Lapland when they have to keep to the limit and everyone else is scared to pass them.

Just how good is the Lofoten ISlands? aside from the dodgy weather and expense, is the climbing really world class? And how much scope is there for new routes still? sorry i know veyr little about the place

In reply to TobyA: fair enough. But the climbing in Lofoten, really amazing world class venue? Or just a good trad climbing venue?

In reply to TobyA:

The local's way to handle the situation is to overtake the police, drive 5 km/h above the speedlimit, until the police car is out of sight, then go back to normal speed.

In reply to GDes: What exactly defines "really amazing world class"? How many of us have really travelled enough to make that judgement?

Vestpillaren Direct is the best climbing route of any type I ever done I think in 16-odd years of pretty regular climbing and mountaineering. Can't say much beyond that.

In reply to TobyA: say compared to yosemite, Verdon, other renowned "must visit" venues. What i mean is is it brilliant!!!

In reply to kos-d:

Once you are at Hemingsvar, you could manage a lot of climbing within easy walking distance. Loads of tourist busses heading there so it must be possible.

We flew to Narvic and hired cars from there which worked well enough, although flight connections through Oslo were not the best.

In reply to TobyA:

I've only been there once, way back in 1970something & I remember the weather being pretty mixed, sometimes good but also with a fair amount of rain & low cloud.

Can't compare to Yosemite as I've never been there but I would say its similar to climbing in the Chamonix aiguilles or (more apt as the rock & scenery is similar) a bigger version of the best bits of Skye

In reply to GDes:

As a destination it is a fantastic place, as a climbing venue it is a little limited, despite there being miles and miles (miles) of undeveloped rock. The current guide lists about 350 routes, an organised team could crack of the majority of the best routes in their grade band in 2 - 3 weeks.
On the plus side the routes are trad (a bit of a novelty) and the rock is superb.


Chris

In reply to GDes:

Lots of samey limestone lacking strong natural lines. Yes, its much better than that.

Just joking, I haven't climbed in Verdon - but Limestone isn't my chosen cup of tea really.

In reply to Chris Craggs:


I understand the point you are making, but the way you phrase makes it seem a little absurd. I don't mean you are, but it makes us 'modern' climbers seem a little absurd in that we want a guidebook with lots of stars in it, not huge amounts of perfect untouched rock to explore.

In reply to kos-d:

Amazing place, wouldn't be as much fun on a tight budget though.

I think we did without a car half of the time, and hired one for the other half. We flew to Bodo and got the hurtigruten to svolvaer.

In reply to trevor simpson:

If you camp for free and shop at the big supermarkets I've found going to Lofoten to be quite a cheap trip. More than a couple of beers in the Climbers Bar in Henningsvaer will start to enlarge the budget alarmingly though!

In reply to TobyA:

And how can you resist a couple of beers whilst sneaking in there for a 'free' shower now and again ?

In reply to TobyA:

Which is why driving makes sense. Take a roof box and fill this with wine or beer and you have a great location and affordable alcohol!!

In reply to jwi:

Thanks for the info Jonas.

I guess it's not a weekend dash place then!

Have to plan a proper trip...

J

In reply to kos-d:

It depends how many weeks' holidays you have...

To drive, you will need about 4 weeks holiday. 1 week travel there, one week back. (You can of course break up the journey in Romsdal/Sunnmore etc on route!). Norwegian roads are not that great.

If you have "normal" length holidays you'd be better off flying.

In 2005 we flew via Oslo. It's a 2 hour flight from Oslo to Narvik.
From Aberdeen, we had to change at Stavanger then Oslo. It took us a day to get there flying.

Was it worth it? Undoubtably yes - it's the best mountaineering holiday I've ever had. We were lucky with the weather which always helps!

You'll enjoy Lofoten more if you're into mountaineering days out and not just cragging.
Have a look at http://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/author.html?id=10716 for a selection of Lofoten pictures.