UKC

does anyone know of a knot/hitch which can be used to enable a person to abseil off one side only of a doubled or double ropes? I gather it can be used on a bolard or pre fixed anchors, cheers.

In reply to borriss: anyone...

In reply to borriss:

Standard approach for caving pull through trips (possibly a similar situation)is figure of 8 on one side then Krab into the bite and clip the other side into the crab. Allows abbing on the side that the rope goes through the Krab and retrieval by pulling the rope with the knot in. Relies on good anchor of course as it tightens against the anchor when loaded.

Might not be advisable for snow bollards in which case probably doesnt answer your queation.

In reply to borriss: Why would you want to do that?

In reply to borriss:

SiWood's suggestion sounds about right.

If you are feeling brave check out:

http://www.grimpavranches.com/Noeud%20Dufour.htm

This allows you to abseil on one rope and then untie the knot by pulling on the other rope - hopefully when you are on the ground.

It's taught to climbers on courses in France and I have tried it and it works OK. Bloody scary though!

Ollie.

In reply to Al Evans:

I think this is useful if you need to do a full-length abseil but if one of the ropes is damaged.

In reply to JonBray: Well well Jon Bray... if thats the Jon I know...

Si Woods is bang on. I don't know a way that only requires one rope but is retrievable. Unless you tie to the anchor with a slip knot. YTou'll get to the ground quick and the rope will come down shortly thereafter... (P.S. please only try this if you are a qualified stuntman...)

In reply to mike kann:

I'll try that later this year then!

In reply to borriss: yes, this can be done. Useful if say one rope is damaged but you still want to ab the full distance.

Connect the two ropes as normal. Make a closed bight on the good rope near the join between the ropes. Clip a screwgate into this. Pass the ropes through the ab anchor such that the knoe joining the ropes and the damaged rope are on the same side of the anchor. Clip the good rope into the krab, so that by pulling on the good rope, the krab holds it in place securely. thus the good rope looks a bit like a "q". Ab on the good rope. To recover, pull on trashed rope.

In reply to nickinscottishmountains: I agree that this is the right way to do it using a screwgate on the 'good' rope. I have seen a picture of this technique being used for light-weight alpinism where 6mm dyneema cord was used for the retrieval rope.

In reply to borriss: thanks all, I think the one using the biner sounds the most reasuring! might try it, only on flat ground to start like batman and robin walking up a building. I ask because I am living in Australia and saw it on a forum here, cheers.