UKC

Did I miss a post on this?

http://www.freakclimbing.com/modules.php?name=News&file=article&sid...

If so, apologies. Busy, etc.

In reply to Dom Orsler:

It was sort of covered last week along with night time ascents of Parthian Shot.

In reply to GrahamD:

The first picture makes my palms sweat...

In reply to Dom Orsler:

No shit! 45' sloping finger tip slopers on a vertical wall above a poor slider. Gotta love it.

Wrap your chops around this too: http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,6749.20.html

In reply to Fiend:

I missed the write up. It sounds like falling off is the future for hard headpoints, as opposed to out and out chop routes. Though I must point out that while I think this is nuts, other people regard Equilibrium, or even Parthian, Gaia and maybe End Of The Affair as safe.

Question - why is this not E11?

Answer is probably because E10s are dropping through the grades like flies, but still - didn't he spend that long, comparatively, working the route? And it's short (a bit of burbage most of us walk past), and so therefore desperate, so the grade ain't the whole story.

In reply to Paz: gaia is officially safe(ish)... hence its getting saved for the flash (and subsequent GU when i fall of it loads)! frenchie fell off n hurt his leg but didnt die, JR was fine with the side rope, some guy falls off what looks like an o/s or flash attempt on consumed and is fine even without a side rope, and someone falls off high on harder faster on that too i think...

In reply to abarro81:

Sometimes I wish I didn't know who Mike Weeks was.
But Jean Le-Minh Trin Trieu's the only injury in hard grit - it's worth having an idea what his name looks like at least!

Gaia's offically safe? All yours mate.

In reply to Paz: haha, i gotta finish my 3 years in this climbing-less flatland then move to sheff n boulder really really hard then i'll get u along to belay or take pics
did weeks ever go back to finish it?

In reply to abarro81:

not that I know of. It would take a lot of psyche for anyone to go back after that (after coming close to the ground, after down climbing).

It'll be alright for training there anyway or you can at least rack up some mileage (it's freezing outside now anyway) - just don't do anything stupid like get a job so you can climb all summer.

In reply to Paz: He broke a crab when he fell of harder faster. Scary stuff.

In reply to Paz: job??? hell no. summer's very provisional plan: ireland for a bit (strong mate at uni lives there) to go to fairhead and the buren; climb loads of devon/conwall/pemroke/north wales stuff; go DWSing in mallorca...fancy mallorca?? (same goes for u too oli?)
u mesn trsining in ox? its pretty alme compared to bristol/sheff but we're hopefully gonna build us a bouldering wall

In reply to abarro81: argh! why cant i type!

In reply to abarro81: Some sport 'holiday ticks' sounds good. Not sure when I'm supposed to be working though.

In reply to Oli:

He broke a crab? The fat bastard!

In reply to Paz: It certainly looks like it. The gate is on the wrong side if you get what I mean.