In reply to Dave Brown2: They may be inconsequential in terms of physical difficulty but not necessarily in terms of actually doing the route. I'm sure you've read the report on Illuminati by Albert Leichtfried in the most recent Vertical. He makes the WI6 sound in many ways worse than the M11+, at least in the sense that was the bit that was most likely to kill him.
Like you say it is the ice sections that make mixed routes "really a[e]sthetic and desirable", they are central to it being "mixed". I know some people use D grades for pure dry tooling routes, and if this route was ice free at the time than that just seems to make more sense. There is enough rock in the world for pure dry-tool routes, as well as mixed routes, I've got no problem with that. But purely from a logical point of view - if there isn't any ice involved they aren't mixed routes so saying she has done the first female ascent of a M13 just seems misleading.
This takes nothing away from Papert who is clearly nails (as well as coming across really well in interviews) and this obviously remarkable achievement, but different types of climbing have developed their own grading systems for a reason, just like no one now claims to have climbed an E8 when they do an 8b sports route, as used to be the case at the end of the 80s.
