UKC

A great day was had by around 50 visiting guests and hosts on the BMC international winter climbing meet yesterday.

Great ice high up, blue skies and sub-zero temperatures combined with a highly sociable and cosmopolitan atmosphere gave a classic day on the Ben.

Es Tresidder and visiting Slovenian, Rok, added a decent new finish to Gargoyle Wall, Ian Parnell, John Varco and teams made the 3rd and 4th ascents of Babylon and many other teams climbed many of the Nevis classics.

Pete Rowlands and I climbed an icy Albatross with the talented visiting Japanese team, Mano and Taka.

It's a shame the weather has not held for longer but at least, if only for a day, it showcased Nevis as the fine international venue it can be.

A few snaps on-line here:

http://www.highlandguides.com/winterreports0607.htm

Very, very unpleasant in the Northern Cairngorms today!

Aye, Rob.

In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Steve Ashworth and Partner also added a new VII, see my blog for pictures and info. Also there is a shot of you Rob on Albatross. Initially i thought you were heading up Rhyme of the Ancient Marriner!

http://highmountaineering.blogspot.com/

James e

In reply to Rob Jarvis: Thanks for the info Rob. Have you a link to the mixed and ice climbing in Japan you mentioned? I'm always interested in hearing about climbing in totally different places.

In reply to James Edwards:

Ta James - that must be a later party doing the right hand start to Albatross as we did the normal left hand start which was fine.

Met Blair on top of Tower Ridge and got the full description of Rhyme looking across to Indicator Wall, looks exciting! Also met Vivian who pointed out the Mickey Mouse Finish to Flight of the Condor which him and Iain Small did recently - looks like a fairly wild bit of climbing!

Very sociable up there yesterday - not often you get to hang about, chat and watch first ascents going on after a route on the Ben!

Steve Long and visiting Slovenian Tomaz Jakofcic also did a new(ish!) 3 pitch line left ot Tower Face of the Comb.

In reply to TobyA:

Hi - yes cheers Toby - it's on the way. Have some interesting shots of some exciting new icy mixed lines these handy Japanese guys have been doing out there.

Also some of their fourth and, finally, successful attempt of Meru Sharks Fin in the Gangotri Himalaya (not by the Fin itself but on mixed ground to the right).

I'll mail you when I put the new snaps up, Ta - Rob.

In reply to Rob Jarvis:

Didn't look as good in the norries :

http://bp2.blogger.com/__kqWh8tobNA/ReGzphj1Y4I/AAAAAAAAAGI/NNZFdnkR5Uc/s16...

looks like thai drooling to me .....

In reply to Burnsie:
Naaa Burnsie, it was very very very wet tooling. I'm not proud of it! We tried to make choices that were suitable on the day but it wasn't pretty and i feel bad, but at least the Ben has made up for it, my Catholic guilt circuit was definatly tripped at the weekend.

James e

In reply to James Edwards: Is that a wet Hidden Chimney by any chance, it looks familiar.

In reply to lasonj:
Yes, we told our selves we were training for the waterfall pitch on the Eiger. It was total pish, but it was either that or the humiliation (for me) of failing on the easyiest route in the climbing wall!

The freeze has come on and the snow has come AFTER the freeze which is pretty awesome, hopefully good things will done in the next few days as we have a bunch of totally keen, talented and up for it people on the International meet.

James e

In reply to Rob Jarvis:

Ive also put a few words and a photo on the BMC wesite in the "Latest News" section here http://www.thebmc.co.uk/

nick

In reply to James Edwards:

Not getting at you but is that the Direct Start of HC?

When I asked you if it had any snow on it you did say no which was very honest as opposed to a few folk who were saying it was a we bit thin and wet...!! It was also a safer bet compared to some of the other routes and at least the avalanche and cornice collapse risk were minimal compared to some routes...!!!!!

Savage Slit and no doubt a quite a few other routes were climbed in similar conditions over the weekend.

It's a pity the BMC organisers and hosts were put in the difficult situation of offering Scottish 'winter' climbing to their guests when conditions were so mild and poor at the weekend as it definitely sends out the wrong message.

Monday was totally different though as everything froze up solid so hopefully our international guests will realise what Scotland has to offer.

Looks like you all had a great day on the Ben we certainly did with fantastic snow and ice condition everywhere up high.

We decided to have a late start as there was no way we could beat the bus loads of the BMC IM, local guides, national outdoor centres arriving at that dam carpark.

Never seen the Ben so busy with the lower and upper carparks completely full and with people even parking on the forest tracks.

I've got tons of photos around No 3 Gully Buttress routes if anyone is interested so will post a few later.

Cheers Ron

In reply to James Edwards:

"my Catholic guilt circuit was definatly tripped at the weekend. "

Fairdoos, I can see one 2 inch patch of snow in the photo !

Yesterday looked like a belter of a day to be out on the ben. I'm jealous !

In reply to Ron Walker:

Aye, I did that (No 3 Gulley Buttress) on Sunday the 18th when the top traverse was completely banked out. I'd be interested to see what it looks like now.

In reply to Removed User:

I've a few photos of about a dozen folk on the traverse with what looks like a roped handrail on the crossing!!!!
Will send

Ron

In reply to Rob Jarvis:

Great reports and photos Rob. I have added links from my site...

Cheers Ron

In reply to Ron Walker:

Thanks Ron, links much appreciated.

Very windy at Glenmore this morning, many teams from the interntational meet bound for Newtyle, Cummingston etc.

At least it's looking a bit more wintery up the hill just now though - and fairly promising for tomorrow, the last day of the meet.

Aye, Rob.

In reply to James Edwards: Quick jump on my soapbox here. That picture of Hidden chimney is fairly appalling. Surely those that take it upon themselves to introduce clients or guests into scottish winter climber have a duty to explain the history and ethics behind and should be seen to uphold these values. Does that photo not send out the message that it is ok to climb routes which are not in condition as long as you have paid enough, are desperate enough or have travelled far enough. It is this attitude that is damaging routes. Frustration can be a large part of climbing, especially in scottish winter - usually best and most sensibly dealt with by a visit to the pub.
Jump off soapbox.
Glad you all had great day Ben Nevis.

In reply to Pete.T:

From the photo it does look like what is normally a good winter pitch is a wet rock pitch being climbed in crampons...

In reply to Pete.T:
Pete I think that you are right, i aggree it was appalling, but better for me to be honest and put the photo on i thought and have it clear that we climbed 30m of wet rock to get to the snow, rather than say we did the route and not also say that it was pissing with water. I have enough knowlege to know which routes not to do when its like that, but it was shit. We all explained that usually we would all go for a walk, but these people have come from all over the world for 6 days of climbing so what do you do? (Answers not on a post card!)
Mea Culpa.
James e,
P.S a better day today in the northern corries. my Latvians said it was their best day so far.

In reply to James Edwards:

You can read an American's perspective here

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

In reply to Rob Jarvis: It was a great day on Monday, superb conditions - although queuinng for 2 hours to get onto Smith's Route was a real pain.

However, we should have been up earlier to beat all the tourists so I can't really complain too much about the meet clogging up all the good routes - there just weren't that many in condition.

In reply to Rob Jarvis:

Report of the final day now on the BMC website - including three possible new lines. Go to the "latest news" section at the top of the homepage here http://www.thebmc.co.uk/

nick

In reply to Nick at the Lodge:

Thanks Nick - you have a bit more info at that site but I have also put a wee report and a few photos on mine at:

http://www.highlandguides.com/winterreports0607.htm

And many thanks to you, Becky and the BMC for organising a great week - inspiring and great fun at the same time...albeit a little bleary eyed this morning! Here's to the next one!

Aye, Rob.