/ NEWS: Marko Prezelj Rejects Top Alpinism Award
Full report at UKClimbing.com's news page.. http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Why are these nominees being so po-faced about the whole thing? Of course these things are subjective- when hasn't there been fierce argument about the Booker or Nobel prizes? Even prizes for science aren't "scientific" in the final choice.
Surely one can gracefully accept the vote of pretty clued-up peers & enjoy the "controversy" with a smile? If a "wrong" choice has been made then the debate on styles & ethics should be a healthy thing, generating some interesting debate, just as it always does with,say, the Booker.
There's no way anyone climbing at this level is doing these things with the thought of prizes at the forefront (or even at the back, I imagine) of their minds, as what possible gain is there? Certainly no significant financial benefit, just the pleasant glow of the acknowledgement of peers.
Can't they enjoy what is supposed to be a celebration of what they love with less of the ego-angst, and have a laugh at the absurdity of it all?
FFS, it's just a nice gesture. Why do people have to get so intense about these things? Awards are for the audience; like weddings. The recipient should just smile and be gracious. It's intended as a compliment so why can't they just take it that way and avoid appearing brattish.
Prizes are good. People saying 'well done' is good. Why can't it be interpreted as a group of experienced mountaineers saying "we liked your effort, here's a present to show our respect"?
I don't know alpinism from a hole in the ground but regarding appearances his stand against institutionalised hype smacks of integrity rather than brattishness.
how much money did he turn down?
If there were money then you'd be thinking how long you can go climbing for with it. So to turn all that down as well would lend his statement some gravity.
Didn't some Russian mathematician recently turn down a lucrative prize?
Even with no doh, the kitted up climber might also think `I can use this to get sponsors to pay for my trips' but if it's just an award then this is far more of a gesture, as is the award itself.
"The criteria for this award includes alpine climbs that involve high technical difficulty and commitment, originality in the choice of the objective, pure lightweight style and respect for the mountains. The award is chosen by a jury consisting of the editors of Montagnes magazine and this year included Italian Vinicio Stefanello, journalist with PlanetMountain.com; Korean Im Duck Yong, journalist and founder of the Asian edition of Piolet d'Or; Swiss Michel Piola, Piolet d'Or in 1992 for a new route on Torres del Paine; French Christian Trommsdorff, nominated last year for a traverse on Chomo Lonzo; and Russian Yuri Koshelenko, awarded in 2003 for the opening of Nuptse East's south pillar with Valery Babanov; and last years award Americans Vince Anderson and Steve House (Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat)."
it is a joke as it trys to quantify the experience gained from the climb and also it goes about doing it in a big ceromany which is no doubt good fun but pointless.
The reward of climbing any route is a personal thing or shared with whoever your climbing with.
It depends, if it was done like the Nobel peace price (a pat on the back for good work done), then he should not have turned it down. But I can see if it was more like sports man/woman of the year where there are winners and LOOSERS, then I can see where he is comeing from.
I was just pointing out some of the criteria they use to award this prize.
Know one can judge anothers alpine experience, that would be foolish.
What they look at is:
And those doing the judging are mostly alpinists, including past recipients of the award.
We all love lists and ranking things, and also giving recognition to human achievement (and slagging others off). This is what this award is about I think. Not perfect, not absolute, not black and white.
Marko Prezelj and Parnell, and others make strong arguments against such awards.
His ideas on a "Gathering & Celebration" with stories, photos & tall-tales etc. does sound far healthier & a lot more fun.
On reflection I agree the idea of placing climbers in this embarassing, cheesy situation would make you cringe, so I definitely do a U-turn on my first posting!
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