UKC

AMAZING VIDEO: Dyno Comp at OS Outdoor Show

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 Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
"Eighteen year old Sergii Topishko from Ukraine, Age 18, levitated 2m 70cm to equal the world record. On an attempt to surpass the world record (2m 75cm), Topishko came short and didn't manage to latch the hold."

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/

You can now watch the video of Sergii, courtesy of Alastair Lee of Posing Productions/.

https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=7...
brothersoulshine 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

How does one have a "word record" for dynos? There are a lot of variables to control.
OP Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
In reply to brothersoulshine:

the small print

BOARD CRITERIA FOR WORLD RECORD ATTEMPTS
1) Angle of the board is 20 degrees ± 0.25 degrees. This gives ± 5mm of overhang for every 1000mm of vertical height.
2) The reference point for all dimensions is the centreline of the fixing hole of the left hand handhold.
3) The tolerance for any main fixing hole for handholds, footholds or target hold when measured from the reference point is ± 1.5mm.
4) The main fixing holes are 12mm diameter with a M10 ‘T’ nut in the back of the hole.
5) The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are directly below the main fixing holes in a perpendicular plane and are 12mm diameter but do not require any ‘T’ nuts.
6) The main fixing holes for the target hold are spaced 25mm apart on a line at 45 degrees leftwards from the reference point. The first hole is 1500mm from the reference point and the holes must extend a minimum of a further 1500mm. The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are 100mm directly below these in a perpendicular plane.
7) The main fixing holes for the handholds are 200mm apart in a horizontal plane. The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are 100mm directly below these in a perpendicular plane.
8) The main fixing holes for the footholds are 200mm apart in a horizontal plane and are directly below the fixing holes for the handholds in a perpendicular plane. The top holes are 500mm down from the reference point with further fixing holes spaced at 200mm giving dimensions of 700mm, 900mm and 1100mm from the reference point. The holes for the anti-rotation pegs are 50mm directly below these in a perpendicular plane.
9) The angle of the board and all dimensions must be independently checked and verified.

HANDHOLD CRITERIA FOR WORLD RECORD ATTEMPTS
1) To ensure that a world record attempt is valid, the original holds used to establish the existing world record must be used. These are available from Bendcrete.
2) The anti-rotation pegs must be in place as these also keep the orientation of the holds in the correct position.
3) The holds must not be altered in any way as this will invalidate the attempt.

MEASURING THE DISTANCE JUMPED
1) The distance jumped is measured from the centreline of the reference point fixing hole to the centreline of the main fixing hole for the target hold.
2) To help with the measurement of each attempt, draw centrelines at 90 degrees to the centreline of main fixing holes for the target hold and write the dimension next to this line. If this is done correctly then the square right hand corner of the target hold will fall on this line making the measurement an easy task. Sufficient room will have to be left so that the hold does not cover up the dimensions.
3) Due to the set-out criteria of the board, all record attempts will be in increments of 25mm. Example – 2625mm. No other increments will be accepted.

WORLD RECORD CLAIMS
1) All attempts at the world record must take place during official competitions.
2) At least two judges and two independent witnesses must verify the wall criteria and the measurement of the record attempts. Written statements will be required as evidence along with photographs and/or video footage. Ideally, the judges and witnesses should have some official status such as centre managers, official body representatives (BMC for example) or be accredited international judges.

BASIC COMPETITION RULES
1) Both starting handholds must be used with the left hand on the left handhold and the right hand on the right handhold. No crossed hands will be allowed.
2) Any configuration of footholds can be used but feet must not touch the starting handholds.
3) An attempt is successful when the competitor hangs the target hold in control with both hands.
OP Michael Ryan 20 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

News report updated: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Alastair Lee 21 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The Womens Dyno World Record from the 2007 NEC Outdoors Show is now on line https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=7...

Check the Podcast https://www.posingproductions.com/video_podcast.php?form_action=play&vi...

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