/ NEW ARTICLE: Questions For Chris Rowlands of DMM

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Michael Ryan - on 28 Mar 2007
Mick Ryan asks Chris Rowlands of DMM,

"Why should climbers buy this rather than some cheaper carabiner manufactured in China ....after all price is everything a climbing shop owner told me on
Friday.....I could probably buy 10 quickdraws by Acme Crabs to 5 of DMM's?"


http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=375
Fume Troll on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Needs correcting, 10 quickdraws won't weigh 255 grams, 10 carabiners will.

Cheers,

FT.
Fume Troll on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Fume Troll: P.S. Last time I pointed out a mistake on DMM's website, they sent me some lovely shiny wallnuts! Hint hint.

Pedantry pays.

Cheers,

FT.
Fiend - on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Gosh, I bet DMM are happy with UKC writing an article about them!
Glyn Jones - on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Fiend: do I hear cynicism in the room?
Michael Ryan - on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Gosh, I bet DMM are happy with UKC writing an article about them!

There will be several articles coming up about climbing companies, focussing on gear issues and education.

I'm sure if you have any further questions about 3 sigma and hot forging, both Chris and Simon will be happy to answer them on this thread similar to this answer that Simon Marsh at DMM gave about larks footing on this thread. DMM even went as far as to do some tests for us........

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=230436&v=1#3394768

"I was emailed by Paul Evans because he was looking for technical data on how larks-footing slings directly to wire affected their strength.

I have always regarded this as a big taboo, but was not aware of any technical reports. I spoke to Fred Hall, our Technical Director, and he also cited the practice as being dangerous because of the small diameters and tight angles involved. However, he was also not aware of any formal technical reports on this topic.

Thus we then proceeded to tensile test a variety of different sized nuts that had been larks-footed to a variety of different webbings.

I should stress that the results here are not conducted in a scientific or controlled environment; they are just snapshots to give one a general idea of how this practice may reduce the strength of the system.

The results were all obtained using new product, thus the results are likely to be at the top end of those than could be expected. This is because nicks, cuts and abrasion damage on the nut/tape would be likely to reduce the strength of the system.

The drop tower was in use and therefore we had to use the main tensile tester. ........etc"

TimS on 28 Mar 2007 - 212.183.134.130 whois?
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I haven't heard of Acme, are they a new company?
Norrie Muir - on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>
> There will be several articles coming up about climbing companies, focussing on gear issues and education.
>
I am looking forward to reading these articles, as I don't own any DMM gear, so you will not find me criticising you, DMM or any other climbing equipment company.

Mind you, as I donít have any of DMMís gear, I canít say how wonderful it is.
Chris Tan Ver. XLIX SP2 on 28 Mar 2007 - 130.88.74.199 whois?
In reply to TimS:

They do some very innovative stuff. See catalog http://home.nc.rr.com/tuco/looney/acme/acme.html
Michael Ryan - on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to TimS:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com) I haven't heard of Acme, are they a new company?

They supply a certain Wil E. Coyote

http://www.twainquotes.com/coyote2.gif
Darren Jackson - on 28 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Interesting article. I now know what 3 sigma means!

Keep up the good work Ryan. You hereby earn three merit points to spend in the Tuck Shop as you please.
Fume Troll on 29 Mar 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: I've done some more research for you. 10 Phantom quickdraws (12cm ones) weigh 580g. 10 x 18cm = 600g, and 10 x 25cm = 620g.

I was wondering, did Chris get the answer wrong, or did you transcribe the question wrong later? It's important so I know where my prize is coming from.

Cheers,

FT.
DMM Wales - on 29 Mar 2007 - dmmwales.com
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

In reply to Fume Troll. It's a fair cop, I got it wrong, scribbling too quickly to get info to Mick. You've got to agree they are extremely light though.
As for a prize ?....... go on then send me a delivery address and I'll ensure you get one of the first Phantom draws from production, which will be very soon now.How does that sound ?
Chris Rowlands
Brand Manager DMM
Fume Troll on 29 Mar 2007
In reply to Chris Rowlands: Ha ha! You are a very nice man!

Thank you!

Cheers,

FT.
In reply to Fiend:

> Gosh, I bet DMM are happy with UKC writing an article about them!

I would imagine they are. And your point is...?
tobyfk - on 29 Mar 2007
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Fiend)

> I would imagine they are. And your point is...?

My guess is that he may feel that the line between advert and advertorial in the content of this website may have become a little blurry. Either that or he is bitter that he hasn't been given one of those cool blue profile icons like you have? Remind me what they signify again?

Norrie Muir - on 29 Mar 2007
In reply to tobyfk:
> (In reply to TobyA)

one of those cool blue profile icons like you have? Remind me what they signify again?

Don't believe every word they post, their integrity has been compromised.
In reply to tobyfk: Did you expect a biting Seymour Hersh-like exposť of the "great Llanberis cover-up" where we learn that DMM has been contracting out-of-work former IRA hitmen to silence those with knowledge of the unfortunate young man from Stoke who fell off Mental Lentils and severely bruised his heel after a 1991 plain-gate DMM lynx krab, that he had bought off a bloke called "JohnUK1234" on Ebay, broke? If only Mr. X of Stoke had never uttered the words "that bloody hurt, I should sue them I should!", he might have avoided his untimely demise...
In reply to Norrie Muir:

> Don't believe every word they post, their integrity has been compromised.

Absolutely. My CIA paymasters (as Bruce has suggested) aren't paying me enough, so my next plan for world domination is to become fabulously wealthy by writing puff-pieces for huge and fantastically rich multinationals like, ...ummmm, ...DMM.
Norrie Muir - on 29 Mar 2007
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)
>
> Absolutely. My CIA paymasters (as Bruce has suggested) aren't paying me enough, so my next plan for world domination is to become fabulously wealthy by writing puff-pieces for huge and fantastically rich multinationals like, ...ummmm, ...DMM.

Bruce is just like you, as both of you have delusions of grandeur.

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