In reply to Fiend:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> Gosh, I bet DMM are happy with UKC writing an article about them!
There will be several articles coming up about climbing companies, focussing on gear issues and education.
I'm sure if you have any further questions about 3 sigma and hot forging, both Chris and Simon will be happy to answer them on this thread similar to this answer that Simon Marsh at DMM gave about larks footing on this thread. DMM even went as far as to do some tests for us........
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=230436&v=1#3394768
"I was emailed by Paul Evans because he was looking for technical data on how larks-footing slings directly to wire affected their strength.
I have always regarded this as a big taboo, but was not aware of any technical reports. I spoke to Fred Hall, our Technical Director, and he also cited the practice as being dangerous because of the small diameters and tight angles involved. However, he was also not aware of any formal technical reports on this topic.
Thus we then proceeded to tensile test a variety of different sized nuts that had been larks-footed to a variety of different webbings.
I should stress that the results here are not conducted in a scientific or controlled environment; they are just snapshots to give one a general idea of how this practice may reduce the strength of the system.
The results were all obtained using new product, thus the results are likely to be at the top end of those than could be expected. This is because nicks, cuts and abrasion damage on the nut/tape would be likely to reduce the strength of the system.
The drop tower was in use and therefore we had to use the main tensile tester. ........etc"