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Quickdraw Question - Sport + Trad

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 beegsyboy 02 Apr 2007
Looking to buy some quickdraws to hopfully use for both Trad and Sport. Will mainly be used for trad, but am also going on holiday to Kalymnos in May and will need to use then there.

Does it matter if I use 18cm slings for Sport as these seem better for Trad?
Also I assume using 12cm closed loop QD's wouldn't be so good for trad, pulling gear out etc?

Just not sure what length to go for, which would work well for both??

Thanks
 TobyA 02 Apr 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

It really doesn't matter that much.

> Does it matter if I use 18cm slings for Sport as these seem better for Trad?

The only difference is you will fall say 6 cms further. When your harness knot is 5 cms above the bolt if feels like this is important. When you actually fall off from say a metre above the bolt, it doesn't make any difference.

> Also I assume using 12cm closed loop QD's wouldn't be so good for trad, pulling gear out etc?

Sometimes, but not that often. For trad its nice to have mix of lengths but not crucial particularly if climbing on double ropes.

> Just not sure what length to go for, which would work well for both?

Get a mix. V12 are selling prowires (very nice krabs) dirt cheap and letting you mix sling length. http://www.v12outdoor.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=938&osCs...

 Justin T 02 Apr 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

Just get a mixture and use them appropriately for trad - short ones on pieces that are on the line you're climbing and long ones for pieces out to the side, esp. cams.

For sport use the short ones at the bottom where a ground-fall is more of a concern and the longer ones at the top where that's less likely to happen.

If you're planning to climb sport a lot then think about getting another set.

HTH
 Jimmy D 02 Apr 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

I'd go for long ones. Miles better for trad, and OK for sport.
 Reach>Talent 02 Apr 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:
go for longer draws
erika 02 Apr 2007
In reply to Reach>Talent: You could always make a selection with open slings so you can ajust the length.
 jonnie3430 02 Apr 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: I've gone back to 60cm and 120cm slings with DMM Spectres on them, short when you want them and long for trad routes, ultimate flexibility. I carry two 60 and two 120 and three 20cm, I really like this method and reccommend them to you.
Chris Tan Ver. XLIX SP2 02 Apr 2007
In reply to beegsyboy:

I carry a variety of lengths; 15cm, 20cm, 60cm and 90cm,

15cm - work horse QDs
20cm - to ensure the krab does not lie on an edge http://en.petzl.com/ProduitsServices/M41%20OWALL%20M41500-B.pdf see middle of pdf.

60 and 90cm - tripled up for more advanced rigging; like nuts in opposition.

The longer QDs are also used to reduce rope drag.

IMO 120cm QDs are just too long. Shame no retailer in this country stocks 90cm dyneema slings.

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