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NEWS: James Pearson, Trauma E9 7a, his account

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 Michael Ryan 29 Apr 2007
"The wire is placed completely blind from a very strenuous, cross-through position. You have to feel it go in and move it to the right position before giving it a firm tug to seat it. At no point on the route do you actually have a chance to look and see you have placed it correctly, you just need to have a little faith! Unfortunately, I had a bit of an epic getting it to go in the crack and once I thought I had it placed well, it pulled out with a little tug! "

Read more about James Pearson's second ascent of Leo Houlding's Trauma at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
 Will Hunt 29 Apr 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

The boy is unstoppable. I love the understatement in the quote "I had to try hard". What can he do where hes not trying hard?!
 Ed Booth 29 Apr 2007
In reply to Will Hunt: Gosh Will, surprised you din't criticise him for top roping it first. He was polishing the route by top roping and its crap style head pointing it like he did.

Good to see some top hard routes getting repeated in Wales, Overlord, Trauma, New slate additions. North Wales is a truly top venue.

Ed
 Stuart S 29 Apr 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Nice one. I've that DMM poster of Leo Houlding on the first ascent stuck up in my climbing wall room, so good to hear it's finally been repeated.
In reply to Stuart S: Great effort. Anyone got a link to the Leo piccy?
 abarro81 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: mad props. wonder what he'll get up to in thailand - some super-hard DWS maybe??
 Mark Stevenson 30 Apr 2007
Well done that man!

After belaying James last Saturday on his first attempt when the wire didn't seat properly I can say that the route looked amazing and James is very much on form currently.

I can't wait to see the video footage when it comes out!
OP Michael Ryan 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mark Stevenson:
> Well done that man!
>
> After belaying James last Saturday on his first attempt when the wire didn't seat properly I can say that the route looked amazing and James is very much on form currently.


Mark

What is the fall potential like?

Description?

Mick
Enoch Root 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

> I can say that the route looked amazing and James is very much on form currently.

Respect to JP - it is clearly a very hard route and a very great achievement. Having seen the route though I'm not convinced about it being 'amazing' - being a short wall lost in a not particularly large crag. It is (to use Norrie's terms) not a 'great line'.

That takes nothing away from JP though.

In reply to Enoch Root: Well it looks like it would make a cracking boulder problem if it were at ground level if that means anything.
 mark reeves Global Crag Moderator 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
>
> Mark
>
> What is the fall potential like?
>
> Description?

Sorry Different Mark, but I belayed Leo the day before his successful ascent, when he was taking some whippers off the route. Whilst I can't remember the length of the fall I can remember the seriousness of the situation.

The route starts off a ledge, that if you'll lucky you won't hit, their are a few RP's all below head height that might stop a Factor 2 fall onto the belay should the rock two fail. If it had on the longer lobs leo was taking by the end of the day. He would have hammered either the ledge you start off or if unlucky kept going past the belay and nailed the slab that adjoins the bottom of the wall, after 50ft+ feet of flight.

What you then have to remember is that you are half way up a cliff, with all the rescue problems that might bring!

 Mark Stevenson 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Enoch Root: I could have been a bit more descritive. I'll give you that it's a short route but other than that I think it's got enough of the elements to make it inspriational.

1) It's in a great situation, at the top of a famous traditional crag in Llanberis Pass with plenty of exposure and a good view across to the Cromlech. It might not inspire you, but for me it's location is far more inspiring than Dumby or the Eastern Edges.
2) It's on immaculate rock, some of the best I've seen.
3) It's not a great natural line granted, but on closer inspection it's actually a very compelling route as the spaced holds on the face are rather obvious and inviting. It's one of these pieces of rock that the more you look at it the more climbable it looks and the more you feel it ought to be climbed.
4) The climbing is sustained, technical and sequential.

In reply to Mick: The gear is a pecker placed in a crack on top of the remains of an old piton, followed by the blindly placed wire (WC Rock 2? by Leo, and WC superlight 4 by James). They pecker is reasonable as I held James on it as he backed off.

If you come off placing the wire (and the pecker holds) you'll probably just miss hitting the belay ledge and land in a prickly bush. If you come of higher up and the wire placed blind doesn't hold you'll hit the ledge very hard, serious broken bones certainly.

I don't have many reference points to compare it to, but it's no doubt less serious than some E9s (e.g. Indian Face). However it's commiting 7a climbing. It was very obvious that James needed to hit every hold and every move right first time to hang in there.
OP Michael Ryan 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mark Stevenson and Mark Reeves:

Thanks for the intimate perspectives Marks.

Mick
 Mark Stevenson 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Richard Bradley:
> Well it looks like it would make a cracking boulder problem if it were at ground level if that means anything.

Spot on. It certainly does, at for those who can climb Font grade 8s!
 robin mueller 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mark Stevenson:

Do you happen to know how hard the crux section is, in bouldering terms? Would be interesting to hear. UK 7a could be anything from font 7b+ to 8a.
 Paz 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Does this sound like Leo pre placed the wire to anyone else then?

I don't know this as fact and I'm not aiming personal criticism at Leo, just at undeclared pre placement in general which does occur. Something to bear in mind before your onsight.
 tony 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Paz:

I think Leo decided to do without the wire. Mark Reeves will be able to confirm this.
 Paz 30 Apr 2007
In reply to tony:

That'd have been f*cking awesome! There was gear in the famous Ray Wood photo though wasn't there?
 bluebrad 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Paz:
> (In reply to tony)
>
> That'd have been f*cking awesome! There was gear in the famous Ray Wood photo though wasn't there?

Quite probable that it was a photo shoot after the FA of the route had been done.

bluebrad
Simon Panton 30 Apr 2007
In reply to robin mueller: Font 7cish apparently.
 Paz 30 Apr 2007
In reply to bluebrad:

I know, so that would make the photos inaccurate. The gear could've been lower though.
 Tom Briggs 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Brilliant. It'll be great if he gets on some of Birkett's unrepeated routes like Talbot Horizon (E9) or Another Lonely Day (E8) on Scafell.
 Will Hunt 30 Apr 2007
In reply to boothy:

In that post I said that noone would criticize you for top roping Parthian Shot if you had a view to lead it. Im all for headpointing. Its just when people top rope stuff theyre perfectly capable of on lead that annoys me. I dot want to get into this bollocks again. As my profile says I have a tendancy to say bollocks things about climbing. Cant we all just be a happy family?
 Oli 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Will Hunt:
Telli?

Hypocritical?
 Will Hunt 30 Apr 2007
In reply to Oli:

I knew that would come up. My excuse is that I didn't have the correct gear to protect it on that day and that it was too hot for decent friction (hence the fall).

Let us not forget that forums are evil things designed to cause arguments amongst strangers.
 danm 30 Apr 2007
In reply to boothy: and not to forget, new routes like Spinal Crack. Its all going off!

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