UKC

Having failed to lead fluted columns at the weekend, I was just wondering if there was something I'd missed.

Got some good gear in the second break then couldn't find anything else. Backed off form just under the overhang at the top of the flutes.

Was wondering if a sling over the top of the flutes would have helped?
Or would having some large hexes/cams have helped? (the rack at the moment is a bit sparse with a set of nuts and some small/mid size cams).

Any advice would be useful as it was an interesting experience.

In reply to popebenedictus: I seem to remember a sling on top of on of the flutes, but what really helps is a Friend 3½ or 4 in the crack on the left.

In reply to popebenedictus:

I think a friend 3 ish in the break at the top of the flutings, extended with a long sling helps, alternatively a large hex in the side crack well extended.

In reply to popebenedictus:

Yes, there's a good placement for a large hex in the crack on the left

In reply to popebenedictus:

Thanks for the advice.
I am a novice leader, so had to back off as I couldn't find a good pro placement. I'm satisfied in retrospect that it was due to not having the right gear rather than just missing an obvious placement.

In reply to popebenedictus:

Did you top-rope it first? Or was that after you failed to lead it?

In reply to huwtj:

Oh yeah i see. Put the wrong type in me logbook.

Toproped it afterwards, need to amend me log

In reply to popebenedictus:

Overhang? On Fluted Columns? Are you sure?

In reply to popebenedictus:

I've always found Fluted Columns a bit ........... worrying for a V Diff.

That second break feels more like HS if you take it direct. Regardless it's pretty awkward.

In reply to Glen:

I meant the break above the top of the flutes.

In reply to popebenedictus:

Its all OK for moves and pro at the grade but just doesn't look it onsight. Its all well and good just going for these things and trusting the grade but sometimes they can be sandbags. Caution may be best when you are starting off, unless you are already a bold climber in which case expect some interesting times.

In reply to Offwidth:

Thanks for the encouraging words.
I think I just got caught out by not having andy pro bigger than nuts when I could have done with something bigger.

In reply to popebenedictus: There's a sideways nut 3 in a narrow slot 'round the left-hand side of the flutings - just stick it in horizontally and twist through 90 degrees, like a key in a keyhole, bomber! I've always thought that a runnner in Fluted Crack (the one on the left) is a bit of a cheat. Don't think i'd like to use slings over the top of the flutings unless they were well-weighed down!