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thanks to a lazy previous climbing partner who hated outdoor climbing, I have only been enjoying climbing outdoors since I met my girlfriend about a year ago.
I would like to try and push my grade, and I'm sure she feels the same, but after already taking a nasty fall on the arete at tintwistle knarr, and she took a pretty nasty fall b4 I met her, in which she came close to hitting her head, I think the fear of falling is still there for both of us. are there any ways you can overcome this fear and block it out?
I would like to try and push my grade, and I'm sure she feels the same, but after already taking a nasty fall on the arete at tintwistle knarr, and she took a pretty nasty fall b4 I met her, in which she came close to hitting her head, I think the fear of falling is still there for both of us. are there any ways you can overcome this fear and block it out?
In reply to bezzer555:
Probably.
However before you block it out take some time to look at both falls and work out how and why they happened and if anything could have been done to prevent them (better gear, better choice of route, proper warm-up, not getting on routes you're not mentally ready for). No point blocking out a fear if it's there for a valid reason.
With any luck this process will have two outcomes; firstly you will work out what went wrong and find a way to prevent it happening again, secondly your fear will be reduced as a direct result of this.
Or I could be rambling. It's always a possibility this time in the afternoon.
Probably.
However before you block it out take some time to look at both falls and work out how and why they happened and if anything could have been done to prevent them (better gear, better choice of route, proper warm-up, not getting on routes you're not mentally ready for). No point blocking out a fear if it's there for a valid reason.
With any luck this process will have two outcomes; firstly you will work out what went wrong and find a way to prevent it happening again, secondly your fear will be reduced as a direct result of this.
Or I could be rambling. It's always a possibility this time in the afternoon.
In reply to bezzer555: In my experience the only way to overcome the fear of falling is to do plenty of it. Get on a nice steep leading wall / sport route and take a few whippers (short falls will do fine). Before long you will feel ok with taking the odd lob as you'll be used to the feeling. You'll also be better at it and less likely to injure yourself by falling awkwardly. This will also be good practise for the belayer as it's just as important that they are confident of holding falls under different circumstances.
In reply to bezzer555:
I took a 30ft fall off a route at pembroke (zounds e1) 2 years ago, knocking out my front tooth and splitting my forehead.
After that I was terrifyed of falling off, so i found myself bouldering loads. After about a year of bouldering I started doing easy routes, placeing lots of gear and genraly gibbering around. But i keep leading, placeing as much gear as i could, learning to climb again. I now feel a better climber than befor i fell, even though i am leading lower grades (Sever rather than HVS..) I feel more confident in each movement, feel more confident in assessing my gear placemtns and less likely to fall off. Its come down to doing alot of route i know i can do, and bouldering alot so i can read moves and know what i can do.
Another thing i have found myself doing alot is spending more time at good rests checking the route ahead, mabye climbing 2 or 3 moves, then climbing back, climb out again and fix some pro, climb back and just keep climbing back to the rest untill im happy. However i think thats just because i have bouldered too much an like to do everything 3 times...
I took a 30ft fall off a route at pembroke (zounds e1) 2 years ago, knocking out my front tooth and splitting my forehead.
After that I was terrifyed of falling off, so i found myself bouldering loads. After about a year of bouldering I started doing easy routes, placeing lots of gear and genraly gibbering around. But i keep leading, placeing as much gear as i could, learning to climb again. I now feel a better climber than befor i fell, even though i am leading lower grades (Sever rather than HVS..) I feel more confident in each movement, feel more confident in assessing my gear placemtns and less likely to fall off. Its come down to doing alot of route i know i can do, and bouldering alot so i can read moves and know what i can do.
Another thing i have found myself doing alot is spending more time at good rests checking the route ahead, mabye climbing 2 or 3 moves, then climbing back, climb out again and fix some pro, climb back and just keep climbing back to the rest untill im happy. However i think thats just because i have bouldered too much an like to do everything 3 times...
In reply to quadmyre: not at all, thanks for the advice.
even though when I fell, a nut I placed did rip out. but I had already top roped the arete and found it ok, I just think I went for the lead a little to soon. I got to one difficult move and just couldnt remember what I had done on that move while on a top rope. like an idiot I tried to down climb, and next thing you know I'm hanging about a foot of the deck and my girlfriend had been pulled about 6ft closer to the base than she had been when I started.
even though when I fell, a nut I placed did rip out. but I had already top roped the arete and found it ok, I just think I went for the lead a little to soon. I got to one difficult move and just couldnt remember what I had done on that move while on a top rope. like an idiot I tried to down climb, and next thing you know I'm hanging about a foot of the deck and my girlfriend had been pulled about 6ft closer to the base than she had been when I started.
In reply to bezzer555:
I guess the only way forward it adopting the Nike Approach - Just Do It!
I know, easier said than done, even more so if you have already had some nasty near misses. The advice doled out by Gresham on his MasterClass DVD is to take progressively larger falls on bomber gear.
Does it work? I don't know haven't tried falling on purpose. That said, I do find that a lead fall every now and again, regardless of how pants soiling it may be, does improve trust in own ability to place gear and reminds me that it isn't all that bad.
Admittedly, my last fall conveniently was on overhanging rock so no chance of hitting anything on the way down.
I guess the only way forward it adopting the Nike Approach - Just Do It!
I know, easier said than done, even more so if you have already had some nasty near misses. The advice doled out by Gresham on his MasterClass DVD is to take progressively larger falls on bomber gear.
Does it work? I don't know haven't tried falling on purpose. That said, I do find that a lead fall every now and again, regardless of how pants soiling it may be, does improve trust in own ability to place gear and reminds me that it isn't all that bad.
Admittedly, my last fall conveniently was on overhanging rock so no chance of hitting anything on the way down.
In reply to bezzer555: sooo possibly some pro for your g/f belay bunny? so that she's not yanked forward..
In reply to seagull: yeah, that might help. I do have all the confidence in the world in my partner, and in my ability to place gear.
In reply to bezzer555:
You could try those crazy classes with the office personnel dangling on high wires designed to get them in the spirit of things; you've seen em at the walls.
Or you could try a blindfold/helmet combo.
Perhaps theraputic counselling.
.....or maybe just do what the rest of us did. make damn sure your anchors, protection, parters etc are bombproof and get used to it.
OFF you go! (SHOVE!) j/k
Read up on ropes and find that they simply don't fail if used properly and precautions to guard against cutting, etc are minded religiously.
You could try those crazy classes with the office personnel dangling on high wires designed to get them in the spirit of things; you've seen em at the walls.
Or you could try a blindfold/helmet combo.
Perhaps theraputic counselling.
.....or maybe just do what the rest of us did. make damn sure your anchors, protection, parters etc are bombproof and get used to it.
OFF you go! (SHOVE!) j/k
Read up on ropes and find that they simply don't fail if used properly and precautions to guard against cutting, etc are minded religiously.
In reply to bezzer555:
from your prolife, you've only been climbing 1-3 years, and you have successfully onsighted E2. I'm no expert, but that strikes me as pretty good going really. I think a healthy fear of falling is essential to stop you doing something really dangerous, and from your apparant progress, there is no real evidence of an unhealthy fear of falling holding you back. more experienced people would be needed to confirm or refute what i'm suggesting, but i think further grade pushing will come with greater experience and being more comfortable on the routes. but i dont think you'll ever stop being afraid in some way, i hope i dont anyway,
cheers
gregor
from your prolife, you've only been climbing 1-3 years, and you have successfully onsighted E2. I'm no expert, but that strikes me as pretty good going really. I think a healthy fear of falling is essential to stop you doing something really dangerous, and from your apparant progress, there is no real evidence of an unhealthy fear of falling holding you back. more experienced people would be needed to confirm or refute what i'm suggesting, but i think further grade pushing will come with greater experience and being more comfortable on the routes. but i dont think you'll ever stop being afraid in some way, i hope i dont anyway,
cheers
gregor
In reply to bezzer555:
The fear comes and goes in my experience. It's often also quite handy, fear doesn't have an ego, it serves to keep you out of trouble, to keep you alive.
On the other hand, if you're jibbering by the time you're a meter above bomber gear you need to maybe try some jumps onto it (start small) to gain confidence. The real confidence will come knowing you can sort out most problems you get yourself into, the gear's usually a backup.
jk
The fear comes and goes in my experience. It's often also quite handy, fear doesn't have an ego, it serves to keep you out of trouble, to keep you alive.
On the other hand, if you're jibbering by the time you're a meter above bomber gear you need to maybe try some jumps onto it (start small) to gain confidence. The real confidence will come knowing you can sort out most problems you get yourself into, the gear's usually a backup.
jk
In reply to Regis Von Goatlips:
I don't mean to make light of your serious thread forgive me. Perhaps i dunno a sing song or some kind of distraction that wont interfere with your climbing or rational decision processes excessively. Aint gonna happen overnight. no worries.
I don't mean to make light of your serious thread forgive me. Perhaps i dunno a sing song or some kind of distraction that wont interfere with your climbing or rational decision processes excessively. Aint gonna happen overnight. no worries.
In reply to Dane: I think that might be the best bet. I'll just have to see what happens.
In reply to bezzer555:
Goatlips' singing plan helps me, I hum and sing and mumble until calm then continue.
jk
Goatlips' singing plan helps me, I hum and sing and mumble until calm then continue.
jk
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: dose it say that? sorry mistake there, I have top roped E2 but when I tried to lead E2 (the arete) thats when I fell.
better change that b4 someone calls me a cheat
better change that b4 someone calls me a cheat
In reply to bezzer555: The arete is an excellent E2, but i thought it to be a challenge at the grade. (almost came off reaching to the break from the niche!!)
Why not build up by getting a good base of routes within your ability before you push it?
That way you will be confident and have a good repertoire of techniques on the harder routes
Why not build up by getting a good base of routes within your ability before you push it?
That way you will be confident and have a good repertoire of techniques on the harder routes
In reply to Daniel Armitage:
The best way to get over the fear of falling is to fall, repeatedly, without hurting yourself.
Try sport climbing.
The best way to get over the fear of falling is to fall, repeatedly, without hurting yourself.
Try sport climbing.
In reply to bezzer555:
>and next thing you know I'm hanging about a foot of the deck and my girlfriend had been pulled about 6ft closer to the base than she had been when I started.
Getting a girlfriend who can belay might help. If you're going to fall off, she shouldn't be six feet away from the crag, and assuming she weighs a lot less than you, she might even want to be belayed.
jcm
>and next thing you know I'm hanging about a foot of the deck and my girlfriend had been pulled about 6ft closer to the base than she had been when I started.
Getting a girlfriend who can belay might help. If you're going to fall off, she shouldn't be six feet away from the crag, and assuming she weighs a lot less than you, she might even want to be belayed.
jcm
In reply to Daniel Armitage: yeah, its good but hard as I found out. and I think thats what I'll end up doing first.
In reply to bezzer555:
I guess the key to succesful falling practise is good gear and not hitting anything on the way down. I hate falling which is probably why I have shyed away from practising it in the past, but the downside to just allowing it to happen whenever of course it the lack of control.
Anyway good luck
I guess the key to succesful falling practise is good gear and not hitting anything on the way down. I hate falling which is probably why I have shyed away from practising it in the past, but the downside to just allowing it to happen whenever of course it the lack of control.
Anyway good luck
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: just watch what your saying. for one she can belay, and for two, she didnt know I was gonna fall and neither did I.
In reply to Dane: thanks, good luck to you too.
In reply to jkarran:
You take the offbeats......ready?
ONETWOTHREEFOURONETWOTHREEFOUR!
> (In reply to bezzer555)
>
> Goatlips' singing plan helps me, I hum and sing and mumble until calm then continue.
>
> jk
>
> Goatlips' singing plan helps me, I hum and sing and mumble until calm then continue.
>
> jk
You take the offbeats......ready?
ONETWOTHREEFOURONETWOTHREEFOUR!
In reply to bezzer555:
I'm terrified of falling (even on an indoor toprope!) but have decided this is no bad thing. I only climb trad (and a bit of alpine) so falling IS bad. I do trust good gear, but have no intention of testing it if at all possible (I've fallen once, that was enough).
While being perfectly happy with a rational fear like this, there are of course things I do to minimise general fear when climbing. I tell myself that I am in balance and in a good position. I often declare to my belayer which bits of gear I'm happiest with - all a way of rationalising things so I don't get too scared.
I'm terrified of falling (even on an indoor toprope!) but have decided this is no bad thing. I only climb trad (and a bit of alpine) so falling IS bad. I do trust good gear, but have no intention of testing it if at all possible (I've fallen once, that was enough).
While being perfectly happy with a rational fear like this, there are of course things I do to minimise general fear when climbing. I tell myself that I am in balance and in a good position. I often declare to my belayer which bits of gear I'm happiest with - all a way of rationalising things so I don't get too scared.
In reply to Regis Von Goatlips: I guess I keep on falling by alicia keyes is out of the question.
pmsl
pmsl
In reply to Caralynr: oh I do that. if I place a real good piece of gear I'll shout down to my partner and tell her.
In reply to bezzer555:
Well I think fear only matters if it stops you doing sthg you want to do. (A zookeeper being scared of animals would have a problem, for example!). SO fear of climbing would be bad. And is manageable by rationalising as I said. But I don't want to fall, so I've no problem at all being scared of it. It makes me try even harder to avoid it!
Well I think fear only matters if it stops you doing sthg you want to do. (A zookeeper being scared of animals would have a problem, for example!). SO fear of climbing would be bad. And is manageable by rationalising as I said. But I don't want to fall, so I've no problem at all being scared of it. It makes me try even harder to avoid it!
In reply to Caralynr: if anything I think a little fear will help keep you sharp and alert. my first fall could have been a lot worse, but thanks to a bomber number 3 rock and a very competent partner, it wasnt to bad.
In reply to Dane: rely on what??
In reply to bezzer555:
Don't be an idiot. You didn't fall unexpectedly; you explained as much yourself. In such a crisis your belayer should not have been standing six feet away from the cliff, whether she lets you shag her or not. Don't take my word for it, ask anyone with any experience.
jcm
Don't be an idiot. You didn't fall unexpectedly; you explained as much yourself. In such a crisis your belayer should not have been standing six feet away from the cliff, whether she lets you shag her or not. Don't take my word for it, ask anyone with any experience.
jcm
In reply to bezzer555:
No offence, but he's right.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously) just watch what your saying. for one she can belay, and for two, she didnt know I was gonna fall and neither did I.
No offence, but he's right.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
you really are on thin ice, wtf has that got to do with her abilities as a climber. I consider my self to be very lucky that my climbing partner is also my girlfriend and I feel very lucky to have met someone like her. I trust her with my life, and trust between climbing partners is the most important thing. I'm guessing you dont climb with many female climbers.
> (In reply to bezzer555) whether she lets you shag her or not. Don't take my word for it, ask anyone with any experience.
> jcm
> jcm
you really are on thin ice, wtf has that got to do with her abilities as a climber. I consider my self to be very lucky that my climbing partner is also my girlfriend and I feel very lucky to have met someone like her. I trust her with my life, and trust between climbing partners is the most important thing. I'm guessing you dont climb with many female climbers.
In reply to bezzer555:
It hasn't got anything to do with her ability. My point in mentioning it was that you are allowing yourself to become foolishly defensive about her belaying because you are shagging the lady. I'm sure she's lovely, but based on what you say she's not a good belayer.
Try posting a thread entitled 'There's nothing wrong with standing unbelayed six feet out from the base of the crag when your heavier leader is in difficulties on the crux of a route'.
jcm
It hasn't got anything to do with her ability. My point in mentioning it was that you are allowing yourself to become foolishly defensive about her belaying because you are shagging the lady. I'm sure she's lovely, but based on what you say she's not a good belayer.
Try posting a thread entitled 'There's nothing wrong with standing unbelayed six feet out from the base of the crag when your heavier leader is in difficulties on the crux of a route'.
jcm
In reply to bezzer555:
It's actually a close third after 'sound technique' and 'good judgement'.
> and trust between climbing partners is the most important thing.
It's actually a close third after 'sound technique' and 'good judgement'.
In reply to bezzer555:
Take it slowly and go with confident and competent leaders. I took a massive fall last summer where i sprained ankle, broke other foot and generall did myself damage. it was pretty much my own fault, but i really lost my head. After climbing with a lot of very confident people who encouraged me and let me lead at a really low level i have started leading again and enjoying it. don't push yourself if you feel really scared, and be objective.
Take it slowly and go with confident and competent leaders. I took a massive fall last summer where i sprained ankle, broke other foot and generall did myself damage. it was pretty much my own fault, but i really lost my head. After climbing with a lot of very confident people who encouraged me and let me lead at a really low level i have started leading again and enjoying it. don't push yourself if you feel really scared, and be objective.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I dont need to be defensive about her belaying abilities, and she is a good belayer. but what our relationship status has got to do with you I dont know.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: also, I dont see whats wrong with defending my girlfriend against an asshole like you
Do some sport climbing. Begin with routes that are well within your capability then start to push your grade until you start to fall. Choose well bolted routes that are steep enough and free of ledges so that you don’t hit anything. Soon enough you will trust the gear and your ability to fall properly. Get your partner to belay dynamically to lessen the impact and never try to grab quickdraws. Eventually you may even enjoy the sensation of falling!
Good Luck.
Good Luck.
In reply to bezzer555:
johncox might be abrasive but he's dead right. Why not listen to what he's saying? It might stop you getting hurt.
johncox might be abrasive but he's dead right. Why not listen to what he's saying? It might stop you getting hurt.
In reply to brothersoulshine: I just dont see why you have to be shagging a girl to defend them, she is my girlfriend and I would defend her with my life if I had to. there is nothing wrong with her belaying technique, and as for me getting hurt, its all thanks to her belaying technique that stoped me from getting hurt when I fell.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
After you and the London crew witnessed the consequences of me falling off with a belayer standing too far out a few summers ago (which I still maintain was my fault for going off route, pulling a hold off and putting crap gear in), me and the same guy found ourselves in the same situation. A crux roof at 20 foot, above a rock pool of about the same width. I put some gear in behind him and tied him down this time, and I didn't go so far when I fell off. The gear even proved useful to tyrolean to, and our kit even stayed dry. It was a lot more fun than it sounds.
After you and the London crew witnessed the consequences of me falling off with a belayer standing too far out a few summers ago (which I still maintain was my fault for going off route, pulling a hold off and putting crap gear in), me and the same guy found ourselves in the same situation. A crux roof at 20 foot, above a rock pool of about the same width. I put some gear in behind him and tied him down this time, and I didn't go so far when I fell off. The gear even proved useful to tyrolean to, and our kit even stayed dry. It was a lot more fun than it sounds.
In reply to bezzer555:
I'd defend my children with my life. But if they did something a bit wrong I'd tell them. There is a suggestion that your girlfriend could have done what she did a bit better, that's all.
> (In reply to brothersoulshine) I just dont see why you have to be shagging a girl to defend them, she is my girlfriend and I would defend her with my life if I had to. there is nothing wrong with her belaying technique, and as for me getting hurt, its all thanks to her belaying technique that stoped me from getting hurt when I fell.
I'd defend my children with my life. But if they did something a bit wrong I'd tell them. There is a suggestion that your girlfriend could have done what she did a bit better, that's all.
In reply to brothersoulshine: I didnt hit the deck, I didnt get hurt, I just ended up with a bit of a bruised ego, but then again, it was my own fault for trying something way out of my leauge. she did a very good job if you ask me, even if everyone else dosent think so.
In reply to bezzer555: being pulled in 6ft towards the crag holding a leader fall is not good belaying technique. end of.
In reply to bezzer555:
It's not the falling that should worry you...it's the hitting the ground at the bottom thats the killer.
It's not the falling that should worry you...it's the hitting the ground at the bottom thats the killer.
In reply to davefount: I didnt hit the deck, and I'm still here arnt I. end of
In reply to Mike Hartley: yes, I am fully aware of that mike, lol.
In reply to bezzer555: has everyone stopped having a go at my girlfriend now, or would anyone else like to add a few more sly comments about her.
In reply to bezzer555:
If you were 1 ft from the deck (like you said) and your gf was 6 ft from the foot of the crag (atleast).
Then if she was at the ft of the crag or near enough (as she should be, no exceptions unless it is inaccessable, which it isnt) then you would have been a few more ft from the deck when you stopped.
Personally, with the consequences, I would be quite happy of the extra 2+ ft, wouldnt you? What would happen next time if you "almost" didnt deck?
No one is trying to have a go at your, or somehow interrupt you and your gf's relationship, just saying she may need to tweak some of her belaying techniques.
You have no defence if you say she was belaying perfectly, you are just wrong.
No offence as always! Just dont want you to get hurt like everyone else! Including yourself hopefully.
If you were 1 ft from the deck (like you said) and your gf was 6 ft from the foot of the crag (atleast).
Then if she was at the ft of the crag or near enough (as she should be, no exceptions unless it is inaccessable, which it isnt) then you would have been a few more ft from the deck when you stopped.
Personally, with the consequences, I would be quite happy of the extra 2+ ft, wouldnt you? What would happen next time if you "almost" didnt deck?
No one is trying to have a go at your, or somehow interrupt you and your gf's relationship, just saying she may need to tweak some of her belaying techniques.
You have no defence if you say she was belaying perfectly, you are just wrong.
No offence as always! Just dont want you to get hurt like everyone else! Including yourself hopefully.
In reply to bezzer555:
>and next thing you know I'm hanging about a foot of the deck and my girlfriend had been pulled about 6ft closer to the base than she had been when I started.
Hi Bezzer,
But what you need to ask yourself here is:
'What would have happened if I'd been two feet lower when I fell?'
I know a couple of the guys above might be a bit abrasive, but they're only trying to get an important point across in their own ways. Think about it.
I used to climb with a girl who was about 5'4", and maybe 8 stone. I'm 6', and 14 stone - ish. It's not rocket science to work out the consequences of me coming off. So I always made sure that she was well tied down; if she was six feet from the crag (not advisable, but sometimes necessary due to availability of anchor points), she was going to stay six feet from the crag if she had to hold me.
I had total trust in her belaying ability, and had no problems putting my life in her hands. But I also trust physics. And yes, I'd have defended her with my life; I still would, even though she was never my 'Girlfriend'.
Dave.
>and next thing you know I'm hanging about a foot of the deck and my girlfriend had been pulled about 6ft closer to the base than she had been when I started.
> (In reply to davefount) I didnt hit the deck, and I'm still here arnt I. end of
Hi Bezzer,
But what you need to ask yourself here is:
'What would have happened if I'd been two feet lower when I fell?'
I know a couple of the guys above might be a bit abrasive, but they're only trying to get an important point across in their own ways. Think about it.
I used to climb with a girl who was about 5'4", and maybe 8 stone. I'm 6', and 14 stone - ish. It's not rocket science to work out the consequences of me coming off. So I always made sure that she was well tied down; if she was six feet from the crag (not advisable, but sometimes necessary due to availability of anchor points), she was going to stay six feet from the crag if she had to hold me.
I had total trust in her belaying ability, and had no problems putting my life in her hands. But I also trust physics. And yes, I'd have defended her with my life; I still would, even though she was never my 'Girlfriend'.
Dave.
In reply to Reaver2k: no offence taken, you make a good point. its just I'm sick of people on here who cant help but take the piss and have a go at anyone who climbs below their standard. I guess it wouldnt be to bad if the asshole who made the comment was a friend of ours or someone we knew, but even then he would have been told to shut his mouth and watch what he said about my girlfriend.
but to receive a comment like that from a complete stranger is not nice. I dont know how people on here can make sly and sometimes hurtful comments about someone they have never met.
but to receive a comment like that from a complete stranger is not nice. I dont know how people on here can make sly and sometimes hurtful comments about someone they have never met.
In reply to bezzer555:
Don't worry about it everyone just aware of your safety and trying to get a point across, not having a dig I dont think! Just next time ensure she's a little closer to the crag (if possible) as I am sure you are abit more weighty than her (no offence ).
And on a side note, I am no way elitest having a highest lead grade of HS, so no need to worry about that :P
Don't worry about it everyone just aware of your safety and trying to get a point across, not having a dig I dont think! Just next time ensure she's a little closer to the crag (if possible) as I am sure you are abit more weighty than her (no offence ).
And on a side note, I am no way elitest having a highest lead grade of HS, so no need to worry about that :P
In reply to Reaver2k: again, no offence taken, I think I'm about 2 or 3 stone heavier than she is, but I could be more, shes only little.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I tried it and got the following message
Your post wasn't submitted because of the following error(s):
Please correct these error(s) and re-submit.
___________________________________________________
Please use a shorter 'Topic Title' (less than 64 characters)
>
> Try posting a thread entitled 'There's nothing wrong with standing unbelayed six feet out from the base of the crag when your heavier leader is in difficulties on the crux of a route'.
>
> jcm
> Try posting a thread entitled 'There's nothing wrong with standing unbelayed six feet out from the base of the crag when your heavier leader is in difficulties on the crux of a route'.
>
> jcm
I tried it and got the following message
Your post wasn't submitted because of the following error(s):
Please correct these error(s) and re-submit.
___________________________________________________
Please use a shorter 'Topic Title' (less than 64 characters)
In reply to brothersoulshine: ha ha, I wondered when someone would try that. couldnt resist ey??
In reply to bezzer555: You`re gay, aren`t you dude? Don`t worry, there`s nothing wrong with that.
In reply to jamal: no I'm not.
are you?
are you?
In reply to bezzer555:
two things:
1) what he said was, ultimately, fair enough, especially his point about you refusing to listen to him because of your emotional attachment to your belayer.
2) once you've been wasting time talking shite on here for a while (like my good self, for instance) you start to pick up on people's 'forum personalities'. My Coxmysteriously is well known for being an arch-curmudgeon but also for knowing what he's on about climbing-wise.
take it with a pinch of salt and get her to stand closer in next time.
two things:
1) what he said was, ultimately, fair enough, especially his point about you refusing to listen to him because of your emotional attachment to your belayer.
2) once you've been wasting time talking shite on here for a while (like my good self, for instance) you start to pick up on people's 'forum personalities'. My Coxmysteriously is well known for being an arch-curmudgeon but also for knowing what he's on about climbing-wise.
take it with a pinch of salt and get her to stand closer in next time.
In reply to bezzer555:
probably best to accept that he was right about the belaying technique and move on...
ask bedspring (if he still posts) what happens if you defend a point too earnestly here, some people dont let it lie for a long time. the post by jamal suggests you're getting close to that point
cheers
gregor
probably best to accept that he was right about the belaying technique and move on...
ask bedspring (if he still posts) what happens if you defend a point too earnestly here, some people dont let it lie for a long time. the post by jamal suggests you're getting close to that point
cheers
gregor
In reply to bezzer555: Dude, its ok to be "not" gay too. What wax do you use on that big, `ol moustache of yours?
In reply to jamal: your weired man.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: To justifiably set the record straight, I was sat no more than a metre away. This being due to heather growing directly underneath the base of the route. When I held the fall obviously I was pulled in, but nothing myself or anyone else would consider improper or unsafe.
Perhaps the scenerio has been exaggerated a little, but holding a fall such as this and similarly in the past having my thumb sprained from holding a fall which required quick thinking, I think this constitutes safe belaying. My priorities ultimately, are with the leader who throughout the climb remains my focus.
Despite the comments made on here being a little undeserved, I thought I'd better give my side of it.
Before anyone refuses to climb with me again, due to hearsay. <rant over>
Perhaps the scenerio has been exaggerated a little, but holding a fall such as this and similarly in the past having my thumb sprained from holding a fall which required quick thinking, I think this constitutes safe belaying. My priorities ultimately, are with the leader who throughout the climb remains my focus.
Despite the comments made on here being a little undeserved, I thought I'd better give my side of it.
Before anyone refuses to climb with me again, due to hearsay. <rant over>
In reply to CJD:
>My Coxmysteriously
God, this is getting like Oprah. Freud would have loved that. Always at your service, of course.
>My Coxmysteriously
God, this is getting like Oprah. Freud would have loved that. Always at your service, of course.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
oops.
<blushes>
my apologies, MR coxmysteriously.
having seen you in your truly remarkable climbing trousers, I hope you won't mind if I spare Mrs Coxmysteriously the trauma of a thumbwrestling match over you...
oops.
<blushes>
my apologies, MR coxmysteriously.
having seen you in your truly remarkable climbing trousers, I hope you won't mind if I spare Mrs Coxmysteriously the trauma of a thumbwrestling match over you...
In reply to bezzer555:
oh oh oh, il have a go! nah cant be arsed actualy. you should have stopped replying to this thread long before you did.fool.
> (In reply to bezzer555) has everyone stopped having a go at my girlfriend now, or would anyone else like to add a few more sly comments about her.
oh oh oh, il have a go! nah cant be arsed actualy. you should have stopped replying to this thread long before you did.fool.
In reply to LMB:
ahhh i get ya - was it an attempt on his life.... dont blame you. it would be handy if you could reel him in a little.
ahhh i get ya - was it an attempt on his life.... dont blame you. it would be handy if you could reel him in a little.
In reply to bezzer555:
that all great and all, but he belay technique is somewhat poor.
> (In reply to johncoxmysteriously)
> [...]
>
> you really are on thin ice, wtf has that got to do with her abilities as a climber. I consider my self to be very lucky that my climbing partner is also my girlfriend and I feel very lucky to have met someone like her. I trust her with my life, and trust between climbing partners is the most important thing. I'm guessing you dont climb with many female climbers.
> [...]
>
> you really are on thin ice, wtf has that got to do with her abilities as a climber. I consider my self to be very lucky that my climbing partner is also my girlfriend and I feel very lucky to have met someone like her. I trust her with my life, and trust between climbing partners is the most important thing. I'm guessing you dont climb with many female climbers.
that all great and all, but he belay technique is somewhat poor.
In reply to Tom Ripley Mountain Guide:
maybe he should lent her out to people from UKC as a belayer. Then in some months more people could comment on her belaying.
maybe he should lent her out to people from UKC as a belayer. Then in some months more people could comment on her belaying.
In reply to bezzer555:
I find that having a competent belayer helps.
G
> are there any ways you can overcome this fear and block it out?
I find that having a competent belayer helps.
G
In reply to LMB:
I climbed with LMB several times last year and never had a problem with her belaying. I'm normally reasonably picky about my belayers especially when I go climbing semi-regularly with them and can't remembered anything that worried me. I'm sure she's learnt something from this incident and will now be a better belayer, not that she was a bad one to begin with.
I climbed with LMB several times last year and never had a problem with her belaying. I'm normally reasonably picky about my belayers especially when I go climbing semi-regularly with them and can't remembered anything that worried me. I'm sure she's learnt something from this incident and will now be a better belayer, not that she was a bad one to begin with.
In reply to bezzer555:
For me the key is knowing that I am not going to be significantly hurt by a fall. This means having:
(a) good runners with some redundancy if possible
(b) which is not necessarily the same thing as closely spaced gear
(c) a competent belayer attached by bomber gear to the rock.
So I am not too afraid of falling a fair way if its going to be a clean fall into air onto bomber runners. Better this than an uncertain fall, not necessarily into air, onto dubious gear even if fairly closely spaced. When I was younger I tended to used double rope technique with alternating runners. Now, I still prefer to use double ropes for trad (for many reasons), but tend to prefer to put runners on each of the ropes more or less at the same level. Before a crux I like to have (at least) two bomber pieces in close proximity and then maybe run it out for 10 to 15 feet. When one falls off under such conditions and all the gear works exactly as intended, and one does not get hurt at all (which is usually the case), this tends to increase one's confidence and reduce the fear of falling.
Another good rule is never to pass a bomber placement unless it is unnecessarily close to previous bomber gear and it is fairly obvious that further bomber placements lie ahead within reasonable range.
For me the key is knowing that I am not going to be significantly hurt by a fall. This means having:
(a) good runners with some redundancy if possible
(b) which is not necessarily the same thing as closely spaced gear
(c) a competent belayer attached by bomber gear to the rock.
So I am not too afraid of falling a fair way if its going to be a clean fall into air onto bomber runners. Better this than an uncertain fall, not necessarily into air, onto dubious gear even if fairly closely spaced. When I was younger I tended to used double rope technique with alternating runners. Now, I still prefer to use double ropes for trad (for many reasons), but tend to prefer to put runners on each of the ropes more or less at the same level. Before a crux I like to have (at least) two bomber pieces in close proximity and then maybe run it out for 10 to 15 feet. When one falls off under such conditions and all the gear works exactly as intended, and one does not get hurt at all (which is usually the case), this tends to increase one's confidence and reduce the fear of falling.
Another good rule is never to pass a bomber placement unless it is unnecessarily close to previous bomber gear and it is fairly obvious that further bomber placements lie ahead within reasonable range.
In reply to Cat on a Hot Thin Roof:
He would have been 3 feet off the deck when his fall was arested.
2 feet higher on the other hand....
> (In reply to bezzer555)
>
> But what you need to ask yourself here is:
>
> 'What would have happened if I'd been two feet lower when I fell?'
>
> But what you need to ask yourself here is:
>
> 'What would have happened if I'd been two feet lower when I fell?'
>
He would have been 3 feet off the deck when his fall was arested.
2 feet higher on the other hand....
In reply to Rycelow:
Bugger; my maths aint at it's best when I've only been out of bed 20 mins and only one cup of tea...
Bugger; my maths aint at it's best when I've only been out of bed 20 mins and only one cup of tea...
In reply to bezzer555:
What’s happened to bezzer’s Goodbye to UKC thread, then?
Contrary to my normal Disraelian principles I’m feeling a tiny bit sorry about yanking his chain now. I’m sure when I was 17 and had my first girlfriend I could have made just as much of an ass of myself as he did. And in truth attempting to headpoint The Arête when you’re climbing at his level and don’t know anyone more experienced was a ballsy enough effort.
jcm
What’s happened to bezzer’s Goodbye to UKC thread, then?
Contrary to my normal Disraelian principles I’m feeling a tiny bit sorry about yanking his chain now. I’m sure when I was 17 and had my first girlfriend I could have made just as much of an ass of myself as he did. And in truth attempting to headpoint The Arête when you’re climbing at his level and don’t know anyone more experienced was a ballsy enough effort.
jcm
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
it seemed, the thread, to be pulled for some reason
a mod?
or can you delete your own thread?
it seemed, the thread, to be pulled for some reason
a mod?
or can you delete your own thread?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
John, I think he's moved it to his profile unless that's some kind of 'performance art' that I just dont get!
Bezzer... you need to take peoples comments with a pinch of salt, they're rarely meant with genuine malice. Going through life getting stressed about every little quip will just land you with an ulcer.
jk
John, I think he's moved it to his profile unless that's some kind of 'performance art' that I just dont get!
Bezzer... you need to take peoples comments with a pinch of salt, they're rarely meant with genuine malice. Going through life getting stressed about every little quip will just land you with an ulcer.
jk
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I mailed him to try to cheer him up 'cos I felt rather bad about it all and he still sounds cross. Hopefully he'll calm down and come back.
I mailed him to try to cheer him up 'cos I felt rather bad about it all and he still sounds cross. Hopefully he'll calm down and come back.
In reply to CJD:
This thread is microcosm of UKC.
A valid question is met with a mixture of good advice, arrogance and condescension, the wrong of the stick is taken and hystrionics ensue
Is due to the nature of climbing, or the internet, or simply down to some of personalities that frequent this site ?
This thread is microcosm of UKC.
A valid question is met with a mixture of good advice, arrogance and condescension, the wrong of the stick is taken and hystrionics ensue
Is due to the nature of climbing, or the internet, or simply down to some of personalities that frequent this site ?
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Quick somone email jcm, someone has stolen his profile and started posting sensitve messages of support and stuff!
Quick somone email jcm, someone has stolen his profile and started posting sensitve messages of support and stuff!
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