UKC

I have just purchased an 8.9mm single rope which I intend to use for glacier travel in the Alps this summer. Does anybody have a view regarding which is the best prusik knot to use with a thin rope? Based on what I have read it looks like there isn’t much difference between the different prusik knots, but I was wondering if an ordinary prusik which has better biting ability might work better with a thin rope?

In reply to Pavement Monkey:

Thinner prusik cord might suit a thinner rope but 8.9mm isn't that thin anyway.

Why not experiment a bit, better to learn dangling from a staircase than spinning in a crevasse.

jk

In reply to Pavement Monkey:

Best for what? The different knots are more for different purposes than for different ropes - some are releasable under load, some are not etc.

As above with thinner rope just use thinner cord if you're worried about it slipping. 5mm ought to be fine with anything though and still rated to about half a tonne static weight so you shouldn't have a problem.

In reply to Pavement Monkey:

Surely just increase the number of turns? I usually use a Klemheist for ascending and the standard Prussik for all other uses - works for me.

Take a look at the animated knots link on my Kids Climbing site:

http://www.kidsclimbing.co.uk/techniquesafety.asp#knots

In reply to Pavement Monkey:
5mm cord and the knot of your choice, should be fine.