UKC

So I'm off out to Lofoten islands in early June with a couple of mates. Was wondering are there are longer mountain routes there, and which are the best ones?
Looking for both tricky multipitch big walls and alpine routes really.

The Stetind South Pillar looks awesome but it's not really on the islands so may be tricky to get to without a car. I have a copy of the "Climbing in the magic islands" and the rockfax guides.

Any ideas will be much appreciated.

Whitt

In reply to Whitt:

We went at the start of June last year and it pissed down for 12 out of the 14 days we were there! Bumped into a local guide who said 'us Brits' always go too early when the weather still isn't settled- so if you haven't already booked stuff you might want to go a couple of weeks later- Even though rockfax indicates June is driest...(we could have just been v. unlucky?)

I would generally agree with both guide books' recommendations. We managed to fit in all the rockfax cragging venues (all within walking distance of Henningsvaer and the campsite), some of Solen Sonner (before it pissed down), and my personal highlight was Blaer Blaben (Sp?)- both Etive Slab kind of size.
Theres miles of unclimbed peaks, slabs and ridges with which to do full day or multi day adventures- you just have to go exploring- search for other threads on here for similar queries- or email Chris Craggs. Although I don't think you'll find any walls on the scale of the Troll Wall etc.
Of course I don't need to sell Vestpillaren- you're jaw will drop when you first see that slab of rock- stunning!
Bare in mind if you do make it to the Stetind that it's likely it'll still have snow fields at it's base- just a warning.

All that said, when it did get out sunny it the islands were stunning and no chance of being benighted!...
hope this is remotely helpful!- see a few pics on my profile and website link.

In reply to Whitt: check out my site www.sheersummits.com for our new route on Vagakalen. 5 days on a big wall. lots to go at. take your waterproofs.
Twid

In reply to Whitt:

There's loads of long 'Alpine style' routes in The Magic Islands guide, surely ? Even roadside crags like Presten run to 14 pitches.

In reply to Whitt:

Intresting, little worried that its going to rain all 10 days we are there now though! Were get to the islands 10th June till the 20th so figures crossed it won't be raining all the time. I had a look at the guide and there are some alpine routes, just wanted to know which were the best ones.

Whitt

In reply to Whitt:

Public transport from Lofoten to Stetind is rather difficult - you might consider hitchhicking. However the climbing on Stetind is very nice. Most people attempt the normal route or the south pillar. If you are looking to climb something more interesting consider the west wall combined with the west ridge (topo at http://www.steepstone.com/topo/pdf/stetind_vestvegg.pdf )

At Lofoten you should do the classic west pillar of the priest or any of the other routes on the wall, they are all excelent.

In reply to dr. crimp:

The West ridge certainly looks good. Why do you say it is "more interesting?" than the other two Stetind routes you mention.

(From the topo it looks rather unbalanced, with a few hard pitches and 350m of scrambling).

As you must be one of a fairly small number of people who have done all three routes , I look forward to learning from your experience.

In reply to Jonathan Lagoe - UKC:

Well I liked it better because it's steeper and offers fare more exposure then the other rutes. We didn't find it unbalansed at all. Actualy the west wall is very homogenic and offers splendid climbing all the way to the ridge. The upper part also contains very fine climbing, but it's a bit more unbalanced. Plus the ridgetraverse is a nice breake, just adding more colore to a long day. Route findig is realy not an issue, the line is just superb.
As fore the OW on the upper part, it's not realy more than a few meters, the main part of the pitch is fist.
The chance of having this route fore yourselfe is far more likeley then on the other routes (big plus in my book).

Well protected from start to the very top.

Descend via the normal route.