/ Bel Ami

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AB - on 17 May 2007
Searching comes up with a couple of people mentioning falls of Bel Ami. Am I correct in assuming that this is most likely to occur on the layback crack bit?
urban warrior - on 17 May 2007
In reply to AB:
In my personal experience, yes
Offwidth - on 17 May 2007
In reply to AB:

Bel Ami has a strange habit of attracting climbers who are not really up to VS leads of the style. As VS climbs go the crux crack is very easy and can be jammed or laybacked.
johncoxmysteriously - on 17 May 2007
In reply to AB:

Is Bel Ami that thing at Curbar which can best be described as a sort of toilet spire? If so then it's very easy for VS, as I recall.

jcm
AB - on 17 May 2007
In reply to Offwidth:
I had a walk along Curbar and it is very much attracting me, after only 3 or 4 VS's.
urban warrior - on 17 May 2007
In reply to AB:
I wasn't really up to VS at the time, not having climbed for a while!

PMC1 would be a good warm up before.

cheers.
mick.h on 18 May 2007
In reply to AB:

1st half to the ledge easy VS if you can layback- fall potential otherwise

Above that exhilarating, exposed severe?
andymoin - on 18 May 2007
In reply to AB: I found the bottom crack hard, but that's because it was my first time in the peak and i wasn't used to that type of climbing(jamin/lay backing).
If you're a local and are used to the style then you'll be fine.

Ace route btw.
Offwidth - on 18 May 2007
In reply to andymoin:

I dont understand the peak reference as the route is a quarried grit climb. The bottom crack is mainly climbed as a pull into a slightly slabby layback with a good hand edge and the odd small foothold. Its no different in style to what you might find on stuff graded from VD to HS elsewhere in the UK. If you can jam you can even bridge and rest.
GrahamD - on 18 May 2007
In reply to AB:

It seems to happen a fair bit on the first crack with people getting themselves pumped. The gear is a above your head so there is no danger. For VS its not particularly difficult.
andymoin - on 18 May 2007
In reply to Offwidth: Nothing remotely like it on the dolerite id climbed before, never jamed or layed backed for more than one move... Just never encountered anything like it!

Learned quickly, reckon id run up it now :P
Graham on 18 May 2007 - user-5af002d9.wfd95.dsl.pol.co.uk
In reply to AB:
> Am I correct in assuming that this is most likely to occur on the layback crack bit?

If you are going to fall off anywhere, I suppose so.

No reason not to have a piece of gear above your head for every move, though. It is not as steep as it looks and really is very low in the grade.

G

Kipper - on 18 May 2007
In reply to AB:
> Searching comes up with a couple of people mentioning falls of Bel Ami. Am I correct in assuming that this is most likely to occur on the layback crack bit?

It's straight forward laybacking (no jamming or strenuous stuff).

I fell (slipped) off it, which is a rare occurence in my history :-)

AB - on 18 May 2007
In reply to All:
Ta. When I get to Curbar I'm getting on it.
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mick.h on 19 May 2007
In reply to AB:

Try Owl's Arete too if you are ok with VS- trickier, more exposed, but also gets easier higher up..... loadsa fun.

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