UKC

Very chuffed as I technically did my first E2 on Sunday. (not including Seams the Same - which still shows up as E2 on the database on here).

The route is in the defintive guide book but not Rockfax and is an unstarred route which is pretty much a 2 move wonder (well two and a half if you're short) with a bit of a nasty landing.

Just wondering if anyone else had done it - I don't think it gets much mileage as it's not in Rockfax. If so - am I right in thinking that it is not a good reflection of what most E2's may have to offer.

It was a nice little move onto and off a pebble but I actually had more trouble on the evil HS to the right of it!

Just wondering. And no - it doesn't matter what grade it is - and I am equally happy climbing V Diff as VS - just quite nice to know I'm improving.

ETx

In reply to alj: Whats the evil HS?

In reply to Offwidth:

You'll only laugh....................


[looks shame faced]Studio! I just had a real struggle on the bottom bit It was awkward and thrutchy and I think I've grown out of my awkward / thrutchy phase - I'm now in a lazy, slabby phase!

In reply to alj:

I've been in doubt about whether I did Icebreaker for a few years now. Originally, I didn't know about Icebreaker, so thought I had done Fifth Horseman. I found out later that someone had squeezed a new route in to the right. I've never taken the tick off Fifth Horseman, because I didn't think it felt like E2.

I climbed straight up, to the right of the arete using the lone pebble, but without actually using the arete. The move did feel sketchy and exposed, but like I say, not E2.

If I did do Icebreaker, then I'll be glad to get confirmation of my only E2, albeit several years after the fact.

In reply to alj: Studio is a bit of a brute. Just trying to orient myself to where your E2 was.

In reply to Offwidth:

Icebreaker is, I believe, squeezed onto the wall to the right of The Firth Horseman, and uses a pebble in the middle of the wall.

I'm starting to talk myself into having actually done Icebreaker, and not TFH, now I look into it a little more.

In reply to Grover:

Yup - I think you definitely did Icebreaker. Although it is a very much squeezed in next to The Fifth Horseman.

If you use the pebble and no arrete it's Icebreaker - If you use the arrete its Fifth Horseman. So congratulations on your first E2!!

It's quite a bit to the left of Studio - sorry to confuse!

Sounds like you had a pretty similar experience to me Grover - dicey little move, but I'm not sure I'm justified in claiming E2 (not that that's going to stop me when bigging up my latest climbing escapade over a beer or three!!)

In reply to alj:


Studio defeated my mate who climbs E2 ish and I managed straight away when only a steadyish severe leader. Its a weird first half really

In reply to alj: A lot of the harder routes at CN are exceptionally soft for their grades, Fifth Horseman, The Scoop and Morocc n' Roll for example.

Take the tick with good grace, but yes, it's probably not representative of a grit E2.

Tower Face Direct at Stanage would be a good one to go for if you're feeling confident, and want to climb one that feels more like E2

In reply to idiotproof:

Thank God it's not just me - the extended struggle (and one fall) I had on the bottom half of Studio made me wonder what the heck was going on.

In reply to alj:

Right, Icebreaker sounds like the correct tick. I'll just have to head back and tick The Fifth Horseman, so all the bases are covered.

All this talk of Studio is making me think too. I haven't lead it, but I seem to remember a struggle on something in that area seconding. I'll have to check it out when I'm next up there.