UKC

Any info on the above would be much appreciated. Thinking of attempting route in last week of July
Is it OK to approach in trainers?
Would we need to carry axes on approach?
Is it better to bivvi or stay in hut and how expensive is the hut?
N ridge the best descent?

In reply to mark hounslea:

http://www.summitpost.org/route/158554/cassin-route.html

In reply to mark hounslea: I guess it depends on the conditions when you get there. In Aug 2003, there was no snow so yes, we did it entirely in trainers + rock boots.

As a result, no axes were required.

We bivied 2/3 of the way to the foot of the North Ridge due to a lack of daylight but you can bivi there.

The N ridge was okay as a descent although not easy to find a couple of the abseil rings. We then downclimbed solo the lower section of the ridge. We left the col at about 6:30am ish and probably got back there at 7pm ish. The route took 6hrs, the descent 5hrs. However, it saved a night at the hut and a days walk back.

Ben

In reply to mark hounslea:

I can't remember the exact price of the hut, but it does take credit cards, so if you get to the top and decide you've had enough of the North side it's no problem going there on spec. We just turned up as we were and it was fine.

In reply to Alison Stockwell: Alison, what is the 'UK' grade then, and how long did you take? (The huts a 'must' for a route like that! )

In reply to dek: Overall, I would give it UK HVS with a 5a crux pitch. The rest was VS or less but then it is a 26 pitch route ish. We moved together on the first third until where you climb up to where the snowfield normally is.

Ben

In reply to dek:

We didn't go up the Cassin route. We went up the North Ridge, but they share the same options for descent.

In reply to Alison Stockwell:
Thanks to you and Ben!

In reply to dek: Ive not done any alpine stuff but hoping to pop my cherry next summer. Just out of interest is this route fully equipped with bolts/pegs etc. or is it mainly hand placed on route gear?