/ NEWS: Dave Macleod on Indian Face/Trauma E9's

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Michael Ryan - on 10 Jun 2007
Breaking news down the forums, courtesy of Alasdair Fulton, reports that down North Wales (the happening place) Dave Macleod has been very busy indeed with a thorough look at (and opinion on) Johnny Dawes's masterpiece Indian Face, which he decided not to lead, and making the third ascent of the non-slabby E9, Trauma, first climbed by Leo Houlding (who is on Everest today) and that was recently repeated by James Pearson.


Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
graeme jackson - on 10 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com: Perhaps he should have asked DJViper for Beta;-)
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

So do we assume that Indian Face is the 'harder' route then?

Chris
Skyfall - on 11 Jun 2007
In reply to Chris Craggs:

I believe "not justifiable at the grade" is the phrase that springs to mind. It holds true today just as well as when I first used it on Crack & Corner all those years ago ;)
Agent Moog on 11 Jun 2007 - host86-137-82-51.range86-137.btcentralplus.com
In reply to Chris Craggs:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com)
>
> So do we assume that Indian Face is the 'harder' route then?
>
> Chris

No, we assume that, in Dave's opinion, success or failure is dependant on luck as much as skill.
In reply to JonC:

Stonnis Crack I think.


Chris
Ian McNeill - on 11 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I believe that the route stands the test of time, and will do so.

Different style route to an of ascent to Trauma.

like anything natual it is succetable to change,

The RUUP and flake, improved nut placements....

before people who have not been on the route letalone climbed E9

let the Dawes, Nick and Neil reply as they have done it, others have tried also so please lets not pass -ve judgement too soon...


Im sure if it was a shit route Dave Macleod would have said so diectly rather than some coded cryptic clue...

good attempt Dave the Indian Face is still waiting for you ... when you are ready...


GrahamD - on 11 Jun 2007
In reply to Ian McNeill:

"....You can take both your hands off on any move on the whole thing...."

Ian McNeill - on 11 Jun 2007
In reply to GrahamD:

I'll hold your ropes..........
Craig Smith on 12 Jun 2007 - cf-cf208-002.sbs.man.ac.uk
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"but then later when I thought about leading the route, "


...I realised that I could easily die so decided to do something less dangerous.

X

C
GrahamD - on 12 Jun 2007
In reply to Ian McNeill:

I'll be perfectly safe on it owing to the fact I probably can't get above ankle snapping height !
Adam Lincoln - on 13 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

I don't think its a coincidence that he lives in Scotland AND has just been sponsored by Gortex.
Ste Brom on 13 Jun 2007 - dhcp-892b04e4.ucd.ie
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

ah, theres no shame in admitting its too hard for yea instead of denegrating it to the level of a choss route...

its too hard for me, that chossy pile of shit ;)

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