UKC

Crag of the day: Ratho Quarry

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Every day we choose a new 'Crag of the day' from the database of all the crags in the UK.

We don't choose the best or most popular crags, or even crags where it will be dry today! The main point it to get people talking about each crag - what there is to climb there, good points, bad points, any access problems, etc. If you spot any mistakes, or if you have any comments about the crag or photos of climbing there, please send them in!

Crag nameRatho Quarry[At Ratho Quarry, 1 kb]
At Ratho Quarry
© dan cowley
LocationMidlothian, Southern Scotland
Grid RefNT 128709 (Landranger map 65)
RocktypeDolerite
Altitude100m a.s.l
Routes50, trad (? - ?)
LogbooksRoute descriptions, grades & voting
AspectS-facing
GuidebooksSMC Lowland Outcrops
MapClickable 1:50,000 OS map (open in new window)
Aerial PhotoClickable 1:50,000 aerial photo (open in new window)
Weather
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Forecast for this crag, or UK Weather forecast
Indoor wallsList climbing walls within 25 miles
FeaturesClose to the City of Edinburgh, and offering some superb, steep climbing, Ratho is very popular with local Edinburgh Climbers. The rock dries quickly, but has a reputation of being loose and scary in places. The best routes are the hardest - with not a lot to offer the lower-mid grade climber.

Best routes : Sheer Fear E2 5c, Godzilla E2 5c, This Septic Hell E5 6b.

Extensive work is being undertaken at the moment [02/00] to create the Scottish National Rock Climbing Centre at Ratho Quarry. However, this should not affect existing rock climbing.

Full of vegetables at the moment, very overgrown. Pretty loose too.

AccessConsult www.nrcc.co.uk if concerned about access to the quarry. Earlier in the construction, access to the quarry was very difficult.

Park at the Bridge Inn (Ratho), cross the bridge and follow the canal tow path until you reach the construction work. About 10 minutes walk.

Updates
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ModeratorDetails for this crag are managed by climberuk ?

CommentsAccess to this quarry will be exceedingly difficult until September 2003 due to the completed roof of the NRCC of Scotland. Of course from September it isn't going to be easy either if you don't want to part with some money. I would suggest to anyone who has not heard about the NRCC to visit <a href="http://www.adventurescotland.com/homeset.htm">www.nrcc.co.uk</a>. It does look rather impressive.
Tony - 21/08/2003

May'04 - Ratho quarry is open for climbing! Access is free via the Adventure Centre but you need to sign-in. Extra care should be taken since many of the routes are dirty with loose rock. Guide book descriptions & grades may also be unreliable. The top of the crag is very unstable in places.
Mark Lydon - 27/05/2004

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PhotosClick to view all 3 photos of Ratho Quarry, or you can submit a new photo of this crag.
 Burnsie 14 Jun 2007
In reply to Charles Arthur - UKC:

think there are access issues at the mo ..... ? anybody know ?
 beegsyboy 14 Jun 2007
In reply to Burnsie:

Post from Scottish Climbs, posted on 6th June:

I was wandering in the quarry itself on Saturday, and a friendly member of staff told me, with some regret, that they weren't allowing anyone to climb in the quarry at the moment, due to work being carried out on the top, involving the big fire escape thing. He said that he hoped it would be allowed at some stage, but wasn't sure when.

Pete.
 andymoin 15 Jun 2007
In reply to beegsyboy: Anyone know when there going to be finished? Would really like to get back in there...

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