/ NEWS: Dave Pickford Responds to Dave Birkett
A lot of nonsense gets thrown around the climbing community about grades these days, in which the grade seems to take on more importance than the climb itself........." says Dave Pickford.
Read Dave Pickfords full response to Dave Birkett's repeat of The Brothers Karamazov E9 6c at UKClimbing.com's news page
And I thought I went on a bit.
Pickford goes to the trouble of responding to an issue raised on these forums, a response that runs to no less than five paragraphs. And for his trouble...
> And I thought I went on a bit.
Fair enough response I thought, honestly saying, as far as I can tell, maybe it's right, but that's what I thought.
I think Paz was joking Niall, Paz and Dave Pickford are often found climbing together...
well we were once at the same place.
Eh? I thought you and Ally and Dave were always cheddar sessioning it...
Officially a soft touch then
You do. Thats official as well
Any chance these 'so and so responds to so and so' threads could be spiced up a bit? I'm bored out my nut.
You've got a bit of a tabloid style Mick. Surely you could stir it a bit? Pap somebody top roping, or bricking it? A 'Mick's Choss' gossip column?
> And I thought I went on a bit. Paz,
You do Paz, and usually you have nothing much to say and on the whole it is negative, as this example shows.
Give us a shout when have something constructive, informative and interesting to contribute....like Dave Pickford's words.
I'm sure we will be all ears.
In reply to all:
Wow I'm Mr Popular today.
> They are.
> In reply to all:
> Wow I'm Mr Popular today.
LOL Paz, you are a legend! And don't you forget it!
I've only climbed with him once, and that was because of Ally Smith and Paz. Just came across as a nice guy who was uber psyched about his climbing and just got on with it without drama ... wouldn't like to say anything else :-D
To take this debate on a little....
Is Dave Pickford trying to say something rather important here by referring several times to the fact that he on-sights hard routes if at all possible. And his grades reflect that.
Whereas many of the top climbers are more into headpointing, even if in relatively good style (and that includes Dave Birkett)? Which will influence how they perceive grades.
And yes I do understand how the grading system is supposed to work... And I think he may have a point in some respects.
Interesting point ...
I think you guys have a good point but are
using a bad example. Dave Birkett's the only one who's onsighted E8.
In his original article you can see how he arrived at E9, climbing to 25m with last gear at 13m, serious Desmond from a 6b/c move (for Dave) and a hard 6c move for anyone short.
Death from 6c is de rigeur on other E9s (and on EotA but that's climbing's 7b+ where as BK has 7c+ climbing)
Can someone summarize what Birkett said at the end of the video for me? I just presumed he said maybe it wasn't E9 in which case t'other Dave could've said `OK nails E8 or E8/9 it is then'.
Back in mortal realms, does anyone know how much of Zodiac you can still do since the rockfall? I had this idea that I could ab in to the right hand side of the rock fall, then do it in reverse.
The only one ever?
Elsewhere on the site
Every so often you meet someone in climbing that makes you take a step back. Someone with a fire in their eye, passion in... Read more
Pete Whittaker has flashed the 32 pitch route Freerider 5.12d on El Capitan in Yosemite Valley over three days,... Read more
Manchester Climbing Centre is showing Reel Rock’s Valley Uprising on Tuesday the 11th of November at... Read more
A pack designed for year-round ascents. Super light, flexible, strippable and seasonally versatile you can rely on this perennial... Read more
Nuts, wires, stoppers, chocks, wedges, whatever you want to call them, have been around for a long time. Initially made from... Read more