/ NEW ARTICLE: Occasionally, you just have to do something stupid

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Michael Ryan - on 15 Jun 2007
"I spent a while getting the move right before having a "severe attack of common sense." It was the realisation that because I doubted my ability to reverse the crux, once passed the crux, it would be the top or retreating in shame leaving gear behind. I remember there being four separate moments up to this point where the whole adventure nearly came to very abrupt end, but somehow I kept managing to talk myself further into this daft endeavour."

Writes Dave Jennions.

Well the forecast isn't that good for the weekend, maybe Dave and Shaun's adventure will give you an idea.

Read the full article here: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=466
Morgan Woods - on 15 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

"The first troubles are at ~8m, the 5c crux"

i thought the 5c crux was much higher up?

anyway very daft idea ;o
Pythonist on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Morgan Woods:
Ah, but the point was "Is it daft enough just to go and do?"

I'd say the technical crux is low, whereas higher up there's a continuous (only slightly technically easier) section before you reach the top. But then, on the day of the article the top section felt rediculuously difficult!
IanJackson on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Pythonist: I remember the top being Desperate in the bone dry, that polish adding the extra spice. I cant remember no technical crux low down and it wasn't 5c in the dry.

I could of understood your motive if the crux had stayed dry!

A true British ascent, Good Effort.

Ian
ericinbristol - on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:

Main technical crux is near the top, but there is a lesser difficult bit lower down too.
Morgan Woods - on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to IanJackson:
> (In reply to Pythonist) I remember the top being Desperate in the bone dry, that polish adding the extra spice. I cant remember no technical crux low down and it wasn't 5c in the dry.
>

exactly.....it's just easy bridging to the peg and a fierce 5c move past it.
Will Hunt - on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com:
Very good effort! The only question that needs to be asked is:
Three HOURS! THREE HOURS?! Ive not done the corner yet but is this a normal ascent time? I suppose its different in the rain but it is one pitch at the end of the day.
Pythonist on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Eric Herring:
> Main technical crux is near the top, but there is a lesser difficult bit lower down too.

Fair enough - as I said, I figured the top section just felt rediculuously hard due to the conditions and tiredness. Perhaps I overcompensated for that fact, but the single move low down did feel a tad hard (might have had something to do with feet on the Right Wall being thoroughly un-trustworthy!)
Pythonist on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Will Hunt:
> Three HOURS! THREE HOURS?! Ive not done the corner yet but is this a normal ascent time? I suppose its different in the rain but it is one pitch at the end of the day.

Yeh, that took me by surprise too... It didn't feel like it had been that long! I think it was that I just needed pysching-up for almost every move beyond half height, and the final section was just horribly slow (making it all the more strenuous in the process. You'd expect a normal ascent time to be within an hour.
Will Hunt - on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Pythonist:
Before I say that even an hour sounds a bit dawdling may I ask how high it actually is? Might give me a better idea on how long it would take.
IanJackson on 16 Jun 2007
In reply to Will Hunt: 40 meters, i recon the normal is 30 minutes to lead. Its rather sustained and that rest at the peg is just to good for them burning carves.
ShaunMc on 20 Jun 2007
In reply to IanJackson:

Its a bit less than 40m but pretty well sustained. Neither of the cruxes ar hugely difficult although the top one took some figuring out.

The only thing i would say to everyone is to watch out at half height. From the 8m crux it gets a little easier but just as you get a bit complacent there is an odd move that may catch you out. Both Dave and I had an unexpected slip here!

And also its nicely protected - am going to head back and lead it this summer - allbeit in the dry!!
HamishD - on 20 Jun 2007
In reply to Pythonist:

Saturday was fairly reasonable weather but it really rained on Saturday evening so I can imagine the seepage was awful on Sunday!

We spent Sunday at Tremadog and enjoyed some isolated good weather!

BTW is the drying room in coetmor mill fixed now?

Thanks
Hamish
Gus Horsley on 20 Jun 2007 - 62.239.159.5 whois?
In reply to Eric Herring: I've done it twice - but the chockstone near the top was in a different place the second time which was a bit unnerving.

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