/ NEW ARTICLE: Everything you wanted to know about abseiling
by Bob Wightman
Quote "a length of sling or cord to replace existing loops (common on alpine routes where the sun bleaches the old rope that is in place)."
I thought it was because of damage caused by ropes being pulled through when retieved or through being blown around by the wind? Nylon is UV stable so other than colour bleaching the sun doesn't weaken it.
why no mention of the pussik knot to back up the system?
Last but one paragraph
What about an emergency backup?
Given that in most situations you are totally reliant on the anchor and the ropes and that there is little you can do to back these up, the only other weakness in the system is yourself.
If there is a chance of debris falling on you then it is beneficial to use a French Prusik or Klemheist knot around both ropes. Whether this knot is above or below the abseil device is down to personal preference - I have seen valid arguments for both - my personal preference is to have the knot above the device.
He's a Canuk, they don't do reading and comprehension over there.;-)
The photos showing how not to drop your Figure 8 device are in the wrong order; see Bob's own website for the right order.
Should now be correct. Refresh page.
I have refreshed a heap of times but it hasn't changed?
clear out temp files then, still showing wrong for me and just going to do disc cleanup to see if it helps.
Nope, cleared stuff out and refreshed twice and still wrong way round.
Empty your cache.
Then take your cursor and drag across the url and manually refresh.
Actually - I'm not that bothered really!
Then switch your PC off and on again.
He wears a dirty mac you know, maybe things work differently on them?
interesting video and pdf on belay loop failure
...Which basically concludes that they don't fail.
Is that only if you replace your harness every 4 years instead of every 20 years though?
I backed up my belay loops, becuase the tat was doing nothing else basically, but also because I belay loads of people through it (and because I'm a big fat coward on exposed hanging stances).
No - the article states that even worn through to an extent not seen in practice by any of the Wild Country staff, ever, on any harness - they don't fail.
>The part that broke, called the belay loop, is designed to be the strongest part of the climbing harness, but Hewett, 34, said Skinner's harness was old.
"It was actually very worn," Hewett said. "I'd noted it a few days before, and he was aware it was something to be concerned about." Friends of Skinner said he had ordered several new harnesses but they hadn't yet arrived in the mail.
On Monday's climb, Hewett said the belay loop snapped while Skinner was hanging in midair underneath an overhanging ledge.
Surely this article is just for retrievable abseils, rather than all abseils. If you're abseiling into a sea cliff or something, and want the rope there as a back up anyway, it's common to just use a full length of single rope (rather than halving it, or using two ropes) - this isn't covered. If it's just left out, fair enough, but that doesn't fit in with the section "What is the best rope to use for abseiling?" If the article was entitled "Retrievable abseiling - tips" rather than "Abseiling tips" if would make more sense :)
Good article Bob, thanks.
Mick, keep these coming!!
The article is good but not "everything you wanted to know about abseiling"...
For example extra information such as never climb up an abseil rope which is stuck...
Thread the rope that you are pulling through the next abseil point and coil the other rope so that once the next person arrives they can simply clip in and start pulling the rope...
Tying the ends of the rope together doesn't allow twists to come out of the rope.
Great article - thanks.
Other aspects to mention:
Problems sorting out untangling rope from trees/bushes etc when abseilling first; ok I know a prussik is best but doesn't everyone just wrap the rope round their thigh to use both hands?
When untangling with one hand and holding with 1 hand don't do what I did and get the bight of skin b/w thumb and forefinger sucked into the plate. Had to yank it out with injury for 6 months. Ouch. Lesson learned.
Could happen with long hair, clothing etc and its definitely a dangerous situation. Didn't Tom Patey die that way?
The treatment of knots is not good. The names "overhand" & "figure 8" should
be qualifed as "Offset Overhand" & "Offset Fig.8" to distinguish them from the
Water knot/ Ring Bend & Flemish Bend / Rewoven Fig.8 . That the Fig.8 bend
isn't considered is somewhat surprising (hard to tell what the knot is by that
name in the Needlesports site--looks like it might be a pull-together knot like
the Fisherman's knot).
It's certainly NOT the case that the Grapevine bend is the only choice for joining
non-similar ropes. The Offset Overhand's asymmetry lends itself to such situations,
where one orients the knot such that the thinner rope makes the initial choke
of the mainlines; back it up by tying this thinner rope's end around the thicker
with an Overhand knot snug to the OOB.
The bit about rope slippage is mistaken, too: what might be observed of rope
pulled FROM a knot is not the same as material pulled from the tail into it--but
results from knot compression. Tests have shown little slippage in the latter case
(of end into rope) for the Grapevine or even a well-tied OOB (esp. at abseil loads).
Here is some information concerning the effectiveness of friction hitches in
protecting an abseil: www.chockstone.org/TechTips/ProtectingAnAbseil.htm
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