UKC

I'm trying to fill out a "list des courses" for entry into the ENSA guiding school. They want to see 10 routes with at least a 6a crux, graded at least TD, but starting above 2500m.

(FYI: http://birtle.com/Etc/LeGeedBirtle.htm )

Clearly there's a heap of stuff lots harder and lots longer than that, but I've got a lot to tick off before April so I'm hoping to scrape the bottom of the barrel so to speak to save time.

In that sense, all I can find is a half dozen candidates from the Envers refuge, a few more on the Mont Blanc du Tacul, and one or two on the Chamonix Aiguilles North side.

Are there other good areas within a weekend's drive of Chamonix? It seems a shame to repeat basically the same exact set of mountains (Chamonix Aiguilles) eight more times...

Thanks much for the info.

In reply to John Blab:

Don't have a guidebook to hand but what about the routes on the Petit Jorasses or some of the stuff on the south side of Mont Blanc (Aig. Noire etc)?

In reply to Andy Hobson:
Thanks. There was one on the Petite Jorasses that looked doable but the walk in is pretty big... is anything on the south side of Mont Blanc not super long with super long approaches, and fairly hard and serious?

Ideally I want a 355m 6a TD route starting at 2550m, having a 10 min walk in from a refuge and with a half dozen neighboring routes I can tick off on the same trip over.

SOOoooo much to do before next April...

In reply to John Blab: Anouk on the petit jorrasses would fit the bill, you could then come back via the couvercle and the harder route on the east face of the moine which would also fit I think.

Must be some rock stuff that would work up above the argentiere hut as well- minaret area etc. Possibly also some stuff further north e.g. the aiguilles dorees.

Tacul routes (capucin, lachenal etc.) are pretty accesible as well. Imagine they'd like to see a bit of a spread around rather than all from one refuge.

In reply to John Blab:
You could get the Swiss Direct and the Bonatti Original (whatever it's called) on the Grand Cap done in a couple of days. Also, Gervasutti Pillar whilst you're up there?
E Face of the Moine has several routes also but I'm not sure if any of them are F6a though, at least not if you stay on route but might count as being TD?
I'm assuming things like the S Face of the Midi aren't big enough?
Sorry, don't know if that's the kind of thing you're looking for but at least it bumps you up the forums.

In reply to John Blab: The Frison Roche on the Brevent might fit the bill?

In reply to Al Evans:

brevent tops out at 2525m.

In reply to John Blab:

Gran Capucin - O Sole Mio / Swiss
Pointe Lachenal - Harold & Maude
Tour Des Jorasses - Machetto Diehdral (also Horizon Vertical on Punta Massimo)
Petit Mont Greuvetta - Emery/Barthassat (this one is fabulous)
Aiguille Savoie - Le Rouge et Le Noire
Mont Rouges de Triolet - Le Fond De L'Air
Roi de Siam - Petit Capoussin
Gendarme Rouge du Peigne - Contamine

...and a billions of others

It also depends if you want to do some of the serious stuff, like the South Ridge of the Aig. Noire or the Tronchey Ridge with the direct Terray exit - they're all TD, but in another leage than the stuff mentioned above

In reply to John Blab:

Also the Payot-Mollier at the Tour Ronde...

In reply to Luca Signorelli:

Does the Tronchey see that much traffic - I've often eyed the Integral but have never heard of anyone doing it. It looks a massive undertaking for the grade.

In reply to John Blab: not looking at the map but what height do the routes on the pouce start at, i know the summit is under 2900, and you were looking for ones that scrape 2500!

In reply to gear boy:

The Aig du Pouce may actually count. I've heard of people using it and intend to check with the ENSA people... I think there are two routes over there that meet the grade.

Thanks everybody for the tips. I'll be going to Triolet for sure, thanks to Luca.

In reply to John Blab:

check out the Valee du Giffre, out the back of samoens... there are some nice looking routes ~TD with 6a crux. only thing it might not be over 2700m

incidently, we're headin there in a few weeks time, not been to the alps before, how much bolting is there on the lesser climbed mountain routes. has anyone climbed in this area before, or give us a suggestion of suitable rack to take (thinkin cams and full set of nuts, with plenty extenders and tat....?)

In reply to John Blab: french route? pouce cafe?
i have done voie de dalle and i dont remember it being Fr6a anywhere

good luck

In reply to Neil Mackenzie:

sorry, didnt see the TRAD qualification...!

still any help on bolting status????

In reply to Duncan Irving:

No more than two or three teams every year as average, the route is almost completely unequipped (maybe three pegs left). The hut book of the Jachia bivy has just 15 pages of entries for the last 15 years...

This has nothing to do with the quality of the route (which is outstanding, one of the best TD of the Alps), but because it's a route regularly excluded by the "best of" lists, and because the access to the Jachia hut is a climb in the climb (no trail no signs and several moves of III)

It's not a dangerous route (the rock is almost everywhere outstanding red/yellow granite once you're in the ridge proper), but it's really exposed in the upper part, and serious as every Jorasses line. Has the great advantage of "no glacial approach", so you need crampons and axes, of course, but you can forget about crevasses until you're on the descent route.

And yes, it's very strenous. 1600 metres of vertical gain from the car park to the hut, and 1000 metre of technical terrain the next day.

It's, most than anything else, a great aesthetic experience on primal "adventure" terrain, but many may find it not their cup of tea, and it's (again) a serious route that requires stamina and experience. Personally, I think that the moonrise light on the three ridge towers, seen from the summit of the Aiguille de Tronchey, it's one mountain image will always remain with me.

There's this great picture by zoom meister Antonio Giani will give you an idea of what I mean

http://www.summitpost.org/images/original/197049.jpg

The ridge is the skiline on the right. Just to put this thing in the right scale, the base of the picture is at 3400, the summit at 4100.

Direct route - I've bugged Ugo Manera a lot last autumn to give me the precise trace, but "Pan e Pera" just said "go straight through the centre of each tower". The direct route has been repeated MAYBE two times (go to go at the Jachia again to verify), so you'll not find a lot of pegs either.

In reply to Luca Signorelli: Thats three sets of photographs of routes you've put in 24hrs that previously I wanted to do. Now I am desparate to do them. Stop it!!!

In reply to John Blab: as you are aware the approach to the pouce was a 'mare last week. rock was great though. if you can start halfway up a route then yes, it is of a high enough altitude but otherwise i think it is just a bit below. am sure a couple of the routes there would fit. ask jim about the pouce cafe but not sure you like slabs

tobias in london

In reply to John Blab:

Cipo has posted on the Planetmountain Forum this photoreport of "La Beresina", a great route on the Upper Triolet basin, near the Mont Rouges (Dalmazzi hut area, upper Val Ferret, on the Italian side of the Mt. Blanc Range)

http://www.forum.planetmountain.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=30130

Detailed relations are available on the Dalmazzi hut site

http://www.rifugiodalmazzi.com/vies.html

Click on "Mont Rouges - Punta Nord" to see the topo.

It's another product of the great Manlio Motto - Michel Piola collaboration, so good equipment is guaranteed.

In reply to John Blab:

Just to try believing it's not all doom and gloom on the range, here's two photo reports posted by Aosta guide Matteo Giglio on two modern climbs on sunny Aiguilles de Chamonix:

Pointes de Nantillon -> "Elle a du le faire" + "Guy Anne"

http://web.mac.com/matteogiglio/iWeb/Matteo%20Giglio/Blog/2BF40149-D614-449...

Aiguille de Roc -> "La Dolce Vita"

http://web.mac.com/matteogiglio/iWeb/Matteo%20Giglio/Blog/917AEC26-8A2D-4D8...

In reply to gear boy:
No 6a on Voie de Dalles. When we did it a few years ago there were some brits traversing across off one of the harder routes on the left; either French or Cafe, as they said the route was really dirty.

In reply to John Blab:

There are several routes (like, about 25) near the Dalmazzi hut that would fit your spec. Also for an easy approach in Italy, how about the Aiguille Croux?

In reply to John Blab:

Chistian "chrtur" has posted another spectacular photoreport, this time of the Bonatti-Ghigo at the East face of the Grand Capucin...

http://www.fuorivia.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=6495

In reply to John Blab: South face of the midi Rebuffat route?

In reply to John Blab:
How about the East face direct(contamine) route on the Aig du Moine TD+,400m, 45min walk in from Couvercle hut and the crux pitch is 6a+. Did this route a few years ago and it's great.
Also, several routes on the Minaret that may fit the bill. Let me know if you do them as they are on my must do list. Happy climbing.