UKC

i've been climbing for about a year now - and am looking at doing a lead
problem is i need to learn how to set up an anchor, i'm in a club but don't get to see anchors being set up.

does anyone know any good web-site tutorials

i've spent all my money on gear and wife won't be happy with me buying anymore climbing related stuff, although vey tempted to buy "Rock Climbing: Essential Skills & Techniques" by Libby Peters- is it worth the wrath of my wife to learn the techniques for building an anchor, useful knots rtc

In reply to h8gravity:

A lot of people make a big deal about "setting up an anchor" but its actually usually very simple. All you need to do is tie yourself to the rock in such a way that if the second falls off, you are not going to be pulled sideways or over the edge.

How you do it depends on the exact situation. At places like stanage, you can often loop your rope round a big boulder and tie it back to your self. Clove hitch, fig 8, even 2 half hitches are fine.

Other places you need to use gear. Just make sure it will take a pull in the right direction and use multiple pieces. Tie each one of them back to yourself individually so you aren't reliant on any one piece. The rope is fine for doing this.

In your year of climbing, have you climbed outside at all ? its easy enough to watch what other leaders are doing especially if you are out with a club.

Enjoy leading and remember - the mechanics are really very simple and nothing to get worried about.

In reply to h8gravity:

Go to the top of the crag and watch how the other people are doing it, you will not be climbing all the time. Also, look at how your leader has his set up, ask him why he has done what he has. That is why you were given eyes and a mouth, to use them.

In reply to GrahamD:
christ graham - thats a bit simplistic isn't it? I'm not saying leading is rocket science, but I don't think it is as simple as you suggest - advice and checking are really important. how do you know if you're doing something wrong if you just figure it out for yourself? I have tought a few mates to set belays, and I had to remember to explain what I was doing it time, as each belay is individual (unless its a stake...) so we adapt what we do to account for the actual situation just by watching would this come accrpss?

To the OP - one of the guys I tought to set belays has that book, and it is very useful - no it won't cover everything, but it will get you thinking the right way... buy it!

In reply to h8gravity:
clear diagrams
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Cordelette.htm
http://www.chockstone.org/TechTips/Equalise.htm


and some more
http://www.ryanojerio.20m.com/Rock2_Week8%20Anchor%20Principles.htm

In reply to kendogcatchy:

No its not simplistic and yes you can easily work it all out for yourself (although I did advise watching other people do ing it to get the feel of it).

If you try to 'teach' someone how to do it, pound to a penny they will come across a scenario they weren't taught. If they remember that all they are trying to do is attach themselves to the rock its actually very simple. You also have metal wedges to help you which really don't need an Einstein to figure out.

In reply to GrahamD:

I do see your point, my concern is that you need to know the fundamentals first: then work it out for each situation from there - eg no of points, appropriate knots, direction of loading, max angles between points. when you understand this then you can do it. I think it makes sense to learn from other people because otherwis you're wasting the experience that others have.

In reply to h8gravity: You should be looking at your leaders work. Play with the rocks etc as you take them out while cleaning the section, put them back in where they were, to see and understand how they fit. Do the same at belay points. DEFINITELY buy Libby Peters's book. I did and have learnt a huge amount from it - money well spent I promise.
Do your first lead on an easy climg (Little Tryfan for example) it's basically a steep slope with good grip and holds. You can stand there and fiddle around in relative safety, and your seconder can check your work for you without the worry of falling. I did it in two pitches giving me a simple belay to set up.

In reply to bikerrog:

Little Tryfan a steep slope? You jest, my zimmer frame kept sliding off the slab so I had to jettison it and try real climbing, in boots, in the wind, and in the rain.

Man, it was hell up there. But it was December,

In reply to kendogcatchy:

It sometimes makes it easier to watch other people but others overcomplicate to a stupid degree.

I already mentioned a load of suitable knots - pick the one you are comfortable with. I also said that its important that the belay prevents you being pulled sideways or over the edge. If you can't work out or visualise rope angles from that, you probably should stick to indoors.

Remember a single pitch belay which only has to deal with a second slumping on the rope is not really heavily loaded.

In reply to kendogcatchy:

A few simple rules will do!

No of points - 2 or 3 is normal, one is acceptable if it's a huge boulder or solid stake.

Tie into all points seperately.

Equalize points - ie equal tension on the lenght of rope that ties you to belay point.

Belay in a straight line as you can from points ie Don't set up belay points too far apart. Much easier then getting yer pertractor out to make sure the angle is less then 60 degrees.

Keep it as simple as you can

That should do it!

In reply to sutty: In reply to sutty:
i have asked before but at the bottom of a climb and people are understandably reluctant to go into details, so an excellent tip going up top Sutty!
i suppose sacrificing a climb or two for the experience of watching someone settup will be well worth it and also a good time to ask people how to go about it.


Thanks for all the tips and links
appreciate it

In reply to Bug:
Thanks... as said, I'm quite happy with my ropework/gear placements. That comes from experience, and having my early efforts checked/laughed at by someone who new what they were doing...

myc oncern about this comes from climbing with a guy who'd taught himself to lead by looking at people only. I seconded him once and his gear was creatively placed. I found it quite amusing until I realised he'd also set the belay anchor...

As he'll probably see this I would point out that he's much better now!