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Climber 100 Best Climbs List

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Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
Flicking through Climber in Smiths I noticed this list, these sorts of lists are usually bollocks, but I thought this was particularly so.

They had 10 Cornish Granite, 10 SW Coast, 10 Pembroke, 10 North Wales, 10 Peak Grit, 10 Peak Limestone, 10 Yorkshire Grit, 10 Yorkshire Limestone, 10 Lakes and 10 Scotland.

Whilst no doubt all the climbs listed are quality climbs, this hardly representative of the quality climbs across the country, 40 climbs in the Peak and Yorkshire FFS.

Bemused of Lancashire.
In reply to Nick B not logged on:
40 climbs in the Peak and Yorkshire FFS.

why of course...! and of those 40, a good 35 would be in yorkshire, i'll be bound...

i'm sure baildon bank must have had 3 or 4....




cheers
gregor



 Wilbur 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

Nothing above E3 listed either!

VERY poor article..

why not do a series starting at VDIFF and go upto E whatever. Top 50 at each grade.. they could have spun it out for ages across a lot of issues AND it would have been much much more interesting
 Moacs 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Wilbur:

Probably about the demographic of their market.

Most E3 leaders have a fair idea of aspirational routes in the UK.

J
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Moacs:
> (In reply to Wilbur)
>
> Probably about the demographic of their market.
>
> Most E3 leaders have a fair idea of aspirational routes in the UK.
>
I think this is the case for any experienced climber, whatever grade they climb at.
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

all these lists are ultimately a bit rubbish, the journalistic equivalent of fast food, takes a lot less effort to sit round the table in the pub over a long lunchbreak compiling lists than it does to go out and research a proper article

i'd say they *do* have a place though- for people reasonably new to climbing, shows whats around in other parts of the country, fun to start planning trips to places you hadnt thought about etc.

btw will be jumping the border to sunny lancs next month, what do i have to look forward to in way of local climbing, since baildon bank will tragically no longer be on my doorstep...?

gregor
Snorkers McPorkers 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:


> They had 10 Cornish Granite, 10 SW Coast, 10 Pembroke, 10 North Wales, 10 Peak Grit, 10 Peak Limestone, 10 Yorkshire Grit, 10 Yorkshire Limestone, 10 Lakes and 10 Scotland.
>
>40 climbs in the Peak and Yorkshire FFS.
>
Interestingly, if you go down the road of numerical allocation and use guide books as a rough guide to the number of climbs in an area, some of those areas are highly over-represented, but not the Peak. In terms of definitive guides (treating major guidebokks as approximately equivalent in size and ignoring tiny guides - e.g. Baggy, West Mids), there are c. 3 trad limestone guides to the Peak, 5 (?) grit guides, plus the BMC sports limestone guide. North Wales is similar in number to the grit, ditto the Lakes. Scottish guides - about the same again? Conversely Pembroke has one double guide, Lancashire has one guide, Cornwall two and Devon two. Lundy has one, the Wye Valley area one and a bit. Swanage one, portland one. SS one, Yorkshire two.

So on a purely numerical basis (as has been used previously), there should be more Peak grit, North Wales, Lakes and Scotland, but far less SW England, Cornwall, Pembroke, etc. - which would annoy people even more!
 Norrie Muir 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

40 climbs in the Peak and Yorkshire FFS.

There may be more than 40 better route in Fairhead.
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Snorkers McPorkers: But Lancashire has the world largest guidebook.
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: Where is this fine country will you be living?
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

dont know yet, job will be in preston for a yesr, thereafter probably in greater manchester area

so havent sorted out moving yet, *can* commute to start with, though its not going to be pleasant, so am currently taking recommendations for places to live...

cheers
gregor
 Jonny Tee 69 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

I like that, 10 climbs each for all the separate areas of England, and just 10 climbs for the whole of Scotland. What a very English point of view, a bit like the national bbc weather forecasts.
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: Access is pretty good to all the Bolton and Blackburn venues, from both Preston and the Lancashire side of Manchester. If you move to the northern side of Manchester you also have good access to quarries and edges in Rochdale, Oldham and Rossendale areas. I really like Lancs climbing, on the whole it is good quality and quiet.
 JLS 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Snorkers McPorkers:

I count 15 scottish guide books if you exclude the winter and selective...

http://www.smc.org.uk/Publications/Publications.php?C=4
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to no_more_scotch_eggs: Lots and lots for the VS leader.
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to JLS:
> (In reply to Snorkers McPorkers)
>
> I count 15 scottish guide books if you exclude the winter and selective...
>
> http://www.smc.org.uk/Publications/Publications.php?C=4

At least 5 for the Lakes.
Snorkers McPorkers 10 Aug 2007
In reply to JLS: I made it 13 on that link - ruling out winter, bouldering, selective etc. I'm sure that my on-the-fly approximations for Wales and the Lakes may be slighly out too. My point was that a purely numerical division based on the actual number of climbs available in an area would marginalise areas with a lot of classic climbing packed into a small geographically (more strictly geologically) defined area.
 richardr 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

7 guides for the SW
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to richardr:
> (In reply to Nick B not logged on)
>
> 7 guides for the SW

Does not change the fact that Climbers list is very poorly thought out.
Removed User 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

Who actually drew it up?
Nick B not logged on 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Removed User:

The Editor (Bernard Newman) and friends, is what it says in the article.
Removed User 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

Say no more!!!!!
 Barra 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

>
> There may be more than 40 better route in Fairhead.

Dear Norrie,

I'm sure that must have meant to read:

There may be more than 40 better route(s) in Fairhead.

Luv Barra! xx
 Norrie Muir 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:
> (In reply to Bobt)
>
> The Editor (Bernard Newman) and friends, is what it says in the article.

Are they climbers or what? It sounds like some comedy act.
 Norrie Muir 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Barra:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)
>
> Luv Barra!

Do you mean Love Bar(b)ra?
 Barra 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

Dear Norrie,

That would be Bar(ba)ra!

Luv Barra! xx
 Norrie Muir 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Barra:

Have you an opinion of the Climber’s 100 Best Climbs List?
 Owen W-G 10 Aug 2007
SW - where was Sacre Couer? Best route I've done in Devon. Also not a sniff of Sharpnose, possibly the best crag in the SW?
 Barra 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

Unfortunately, without having seen it, I would be at a loss to make an informed opinion. However, if, as suggested, it only includes 10 routes from the whole of Scotland I would have to say that it is totally unrepresentative.

Still, the UK, nay, World press has never been known for producing entirely accurate journalism.

Luv Barra! xx
 Norrie Muir 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Barra:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)
>
> Dear Norrie,
>
> That would be Bar(ba)ra!

Where you named after the Beach Boys' song?
 Barra 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

No, My name isn't 'Rhonda'

Luv Barra! xx
 Veronica 10 Aug 2007
In reply to Jonny Tee 69: Just an over sight on your I'm sure but 20 of the climbs are in Wales

And why would anyone from Lancashire be bemused if their county wasn't represented in such a list??!!
 DaveHK 11 Aug 2007
In reply to Nick B not logged on:

I agree 100% with the list. There are only 10 routes worth doing in Scotland and so there is very little point in climbers venturing here from south of the border.

Stay in the Peak I say. You know where you are with the Peak...
 VisionSet 11 Aug 2007
In reply to DaveHK:

> Stay in the Peak I say. You know where you are with the Peak...

Well you do but most people seem to think they are in the Peaks...
 freelancer_85 11 Aug 2007
In reply to DaveHK:

Less the 10 foot off the ground most of the time...

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