UKC

I've been to both of these walls before at a weekend (my regular is Craggy). Fancy a change from Craggy tonight so was thinking of going into London for one or the other... when I've gone at the weekend though they've both been quite quiet, what will they be like on a Monday night? Is one notably quieter than the other?

cheers

In reply to sebf: I wouldn't concern yourself with overcrowding on a Monday. Even midweek I've always been able to find something to do all night at both places. Don't know how you're travelling but bear in mind that Westway is now in the Congestion Charge zone. As for the Castle, I believe the Victoria Line is finishing early at the moment because of refurbishment. Not all that early though - maybe 2230. The tfl site will tell you.

In reply to silhouette: westway has got a little busier of late and you do sometimes have to wander for a while to find a spare wall that you fancy.. However, it's never for all that long. I was surprised to see it busy on a footie night as it normally thins out on big sporting events. Don't forget that the outside bit is also very useful on these mild nights but only for the first hour of so as light can be an issue.

In reply to silhouette:

I am blessed with LPG-fueled congestion-charge-exempt transport Cheers for the heads-up though!

I asked about crowding because I know Craggy can get pretty busy on Mondays, and that has nothing like the population to draw on that westway/castle do.

Went to Westway, was pretty quiet until half seven or so, and even then not as busy as Craggy normally gets.

Grading was MUCH MUCH easier than Craggy - at Craggy I've only ever once managed a 6a+ (though I don't try that many) and often struggle on 6as. At Westway I breezed up any 6as I did (including a slabby one, I suck at slabby stuff), and found a 6a+ pretty easy going too. If I'd tried a 6b I wouldn't have been surprised if I'd managed it.

In reply to sebf:

was this top roping or leading?

For some reason the top roping grades are much softer than the leading ones

we want on a route setters trip to craggy from the castle and i had to drop about 2 grades for the onsight... they're a bit harsh, i am a fat boulderer though

In reply to Wingman: Bit of both, but I did notice that the leads seemed to be a lot more harshly graded than the top ropes - 6a+ toprope I breezed, 6a lead I thought I was going to die on

In reply to sebf: i've always found craggy a bit hit and miss on grading whereas westway is a more regular. I know that craggy have put a bit more effort into keeping grading similar across the bands so maybe they've puched them up without realising.

In reply to gingerdave13: I find craggy on the whole consistent, but certainly a grade (at least!) harder than Westway. I couldn't comment as to who's right and who's wrong - climbing at Westway feels good, but I can't help but think it lures me into a false sense of ability

In reply to sebf: hmmm, bugger maybe that's whats been happening to me and i'm about to be spanked when i head to craggy..

In reply to gingerdave13:

I think the Craggy grades are pretty tough compared to the London walls, mainly because Craggy seem to make the grades harder by making the holds smaller, whereas at the Westway and the Castle they focus a bit more on making the 'moves' more difficult as well.

For example, I think the majority of the routes on the Craggy lead wall are a bit left-right-left-right in terms of moves (except on the big roof), but that above F6a+ they start to make the holds really small! This means that if you have relatively weak fingers (which I think I do) Craggy is tough. At the Westway and the Castle you can do routes even up to about F6c with bigger holds but more difficult moves - so technique is rewarded a bit more than having strong fingers (i.e. the lead roof). F6c at Craggy the holds are really small!
That's my take on it anyway - don't want to seem like I'm having a pop at Craggy though, as I think it's a great wall - but I prefer the Castle for variety, and Westway for big leads.

In reply to Rich Hudson: I heard you guys got spanked!

Just got back from my first visit to Craggy. Excellent venue! Definitely found the climbs were hard for the grade compared to Calshot where I usually climb. However, my leading grade at Craggy seems to match my outside grade so I reckon Craggy probably have their grading about right and all the other walls are too soft.

In reply to Cliff Hanger: it was just me who got spanked, but i liked it!!!