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How to fit quickdraw retainers

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 Si Withington 24 Sep 2007
Evening.

I'm making some extendable quickdraws using 8mm slings and a couple of wiregates. I read somewhere that when fitting the retainer to hold the rope krab steady that you need to be careful of the 'fit' (ie. too tight, too loose) as this could weaken the sling over time and/or effect the distribution of forces to the sling/krab when loaded?

Has anyone got any pointers/advice?

Cheers,

Zeb.
OP Si Withington 24 Sep 2007
In reply to zebedoo:

Incidentally, I'm not using manufactured retainers (eg. Petzl Strings), am using one of many options including small tough rubber bands, hair bungees or maybe lamb castration rings!

Ta.

Z.
 Martin W 25 Sep 2007
In reply to zebedoo: If you're making extendable quickdraws then I wouldn't use retainers at all. One of the beauties of these type of QDs is that you can clip the gear then unclip the rope end krab and clip it back in to any one of the free loops and the thing will extend. You can't do that if you have a retainer on the rope end krab. It's still worthwhile being able to tell which krab is the rope end and which is the gear end, but I do that by krab colour. I know this is contrary to the advice given on Planetfear, but it works for me. Your experience may turn out otherwise.

I wouldn't carry a whole rack of extendable QDs due to the bulk of the tripled slings. I normally carry just a couple of extendable ones in addition to a mixture of 15cm and 20cm fixed-length QDs. I do use retainers (girth-hitched o-rings) on the rope krabs of the fixed-length QDs.

As far as any dangers of using retainers, I'd be very surprised if a stretchy rubber retainer that you could fit using only finger strength could damage a sling. Remember slings aren't designed to be dynamic, so there's no special elastic qualities of the material that need to be protected, unlike with a rope. Petzl actually market the String as protecting the sling from abrasion: http://en.petzl.com/petzl/SportProduits?Produit=345 I'd suggest that there is a counter-argument that it could trap grit would would cause abrasion - but the weight of logic and evidence on either side of the argument is probably so small that it makes no odds. Best practice is to check your slings & QDs regularly for wear and abrasion anyway.

The one thing that Petzl do say is risky is clipping the krab the wrong way through the retainer, as shown if you click on the "Sling + STRING: possible danger" link on the Petzl page I referenced above. Anyone who put their QDs together that way would be a prime Darwin award candidate anyway, IMHO.
 bluebrad 25 Sep 2007
In reply to zebedoo:

Can't see that it would make any difference as to the "fit" of the ring and wear and tear - it doesn't move about so will not rub on the sling and I can not see any other way that it could cause damage. As for changing the distribution forces the material will either stretch in the case of lamb castration rings or hair ties or just snap or roll up the sling in the case of a more rigid solution being used*.

Personally I use lamb castration rings - they are a bit of a swine to get onto the sling but they do the job that they were intended for and the best bit is that they are free.

bluebrad

* I should state here that this is a bluebrad theory only - lashings of common sense were applied but no maths!
In reply to zebedoo: Lamb castrators work for me...
 cas smerdon 25 Sep 2007
In reply to Burbage Blunderer:
> (In reply to zebedoo) Lamb castrators work for me...

do you use them on quickdraws as well?

OP Si Withington 25 Sep 2007
In reply to cas smerdon:

Apparently you can use them to lop off tails too! How many other pieces of climbing gear have such a multitude of uses?! 100 for £1.75 - what a deal?!
 riddle 26 Sep 2007
In reply to zebedoo: save your dosh and get the needle and thread out!!! although i'd love to know where you get lamb castrators from?!!!!
 JPG 26 Sep 2007
In reply to riddle: Is sewing/embroidering slings safe? I'd have thought that poking holes (however small) in the weave would weaken it.
 climbingpixie 26 Sep 2007
In reply to zebedoo:

I just use those red elastic bands that the postie kindly leaves. Easy to put on and completely free!

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