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The magazine that never fails to disappoint.
Page 63, October issue
First of all, if you're going to bother to publish a topo to 23 routes is 8 x 4cm an optimal size? The logos on Lucy Creamer's harness on the opposing page almost take up more room (sorry, did I miss the point?)
Of course it is only sport climbing so who cares about the names and grades but ... from the left, cross-referencing from the old guide and Gordon Jenkins 1994 update, the first nine routes are all either in the wrong place, have lost their name, have the wrong name or don't exist. No clues as to what is going on the right side of the crag but several lines are indicated with sport grades but not equipped.
At least the text is insightful and inspiring. I quote verbatim: "The first two routes climb the slabby wall and weigh in at F6a and F6b+, the third on this wall, xxxxx F6c, takes a line just to the right, to its right, just before the the obvious bulge is another ...."
Oh and Lucy's not 'making the crux reach on Chulilla' .. that's the easiest move on the route.
Page 63, October issue
First of all, if you're going to bother to publish a topo to 23 routes is 8 x 4cm an optimal size? The logos on Lucy Creamer's harness on the opposing page almost take up more room (sorry, did I miss the point?)
Of course it is only sport climbing so who cares about the names and grades but ... from the left, cross-referencing from the old guide and Gordon Jenkins 1994 update, the first nine routes are all either in the wrong place, have lost their name, have the wrong name or don't exist. No clues as to what is going on the right side of the crag but several lines are indicated with sport grades but not equipped.
At least the text is insightful and inspiring. I quote verbatim: "The first two routes climb the slabby wall and weigh in at F6a and F6b+, the third on this wall, xxxxx F6c, takes a line just to the right, to its right, just before the the obvious bulge is another ...."
Oh and Lucy's not 'making the crux reach on Chulilla' .. that's the easiest move on the route.
In reply to tobyfk: about as useful as the topos for Goblin Coombe about a year ago.
In reply to tobyfk: No, i think it was some locals. Article was ok, just topos badly (re)produced.
In reply to Chris Fryer:
and the Avon Gorge, also about 12-18mths ago.
my only experience of Brean was so bad I wouldn't wantto go back anyway loose holds and terrifyingly loose tops, ie. a sandpit!
and the Avon Gorge, also about 12-18mths ago.
my only experience of Brean was so bad I wouldn't wantto go back anyway loose holds and terrifyingly loose tops, ie. a sandpit!
In reply to H:
I quite like the sport routes. Steeper and more interesting than places like Portland anyway. Can't comment on the harder trad routes as the only one I've done is Crack of Diamonds at the right end that was deeply unpleasant. If ever a crag cried out for 100% retrobolting and fixed anchors it is this one. I don't know anyone (including some talented local trad climbers) who've ever done any of the trad or Crocker-hybrid routes there like Brean Machine.
>
> my only experience of Brean was so bad I wouldn't wantto go back anyway loose holds and terrifyingly loose tops, ie. a sandpit!
> my only experience of Brean was so bad I wouldn't wantto go back anyway loose holds and terrifyingly loose tops, ie. a sandpit!
I quite like the sport routes. Steeper and more interesting than places like Portland anyway. Can't comment on the harder trad routes as the only one I've done is Crack of Diamonds at the right end that was deeply unpleasant. If ever a crag cried out for 100% retrobolting and fixed anchors it is this one. I don't know anyone (including some talented local trad climbers) who've ever done any of the trad or Crocker-hybrid routes there like Brean Machine.
In reply to H:
I've only done the 'classic' Big Corner and I'm not inspired to go back. The cliff seems to be made of a limestone equivalent of chipboard. Add in dodgy top outs,dodgy belays and fast tides and its a pretty compelling reason to try elsewhere.
There is entertainment to be had there, of a sort. Apparantly a mate of mine kicked a big sod of turk off the top of his route directly onto an unsuspecting family's portable barbeque on the beach below. That and watching people trying to get their flash cars off the beach.
I've only done the 'classic' Big Corner and I'm not inspired to go back. The cliff seems to be made of a limestone equivalent of chipboard. Add in dodgy top outs,dodgy belays and fast tides and its a pretty compelling reason to try elsewhere.
There is entertainment to be had there, of a sort. Apparantly a mate of mine kicked a big sod of turk off the top of his route directly onto an unsuspecting family's portable barbeque on the beach below. That and watching people trying to get their flash cars off the beach.
In reply to tobyfk: I've done half a dozen or more of the trad routes up to E5, on which I really enjoyed the experience - scary aspect, sand digging, grim top outs and all (some of us like adventures). It would be a great dissappointment to see any of the trad routes retrobolted. They are obviously not of interest to everyone, fine. They would make very poor bolt routes, being nowhere near as steep or as good rock as the bouldeer cover sport area, plus you'd have to clean them everytime you climbed. These aspects however do make them proper adventure routes as opposed to normal trad routes. I value the variety and spice of having an appropriate sport climbing area next to an appropriate adventure area.
Keep adventure alive!
Keep adventure alive!
In reply to Ian Parnell:
That's interesting - as I said above, I've not come across any one else who has. Perhaps Andy Donson will appear on here in Colorado time and point out that he's done a few too.
I'm not exclusively, or even mainly, a sport climber - you might figure that out from some of the threads we've both posted on in the past - but it seems to me that in an area (the south west) with a magnificent collection of aesthetic traditional climbs adding to the small number of sport routes wouldn't hurt. Even if you didn't retro-bolt the routes fixed anchors to abseil or lower off would make huge sense at Brean. I also think that the Crocker-hybrid routes with one or two bolts are kind of anachronistic.
Surprised by your comments about the rock quality. The wall with Brean Machine etc looks similarly solid as Boulder Cove.
That's interesting - as I said above, I've not come across any one else who has. Perhaps Andy Donson will appear on here in Colorado time and point out that he's done a few too.
I'm not exclusively, or even mainly, a sport climber - you might figure that out from some of the threads we've both posted on in the past - but it seems to me that in an area (the south west) with a magnificent collection of aesthetic traditional climbs adding to the small number of sport routes wouldn't hurt. Even if you didn't retro-bolt the routes fixed anchors to abseil or lower off would make huge sense at Brean. I also think that the Crocker-hybrid routes with one or two bolts are kind of anachronistic.
Surprised by your comments about the rock quality. The wall with Brean Machine etc looks similarly solid as Boulder Cove.
In reply to tobyfk: I've done a few. I know many other people who have also done some.
I support Ian P's comments above.
I support Ian P's comments above.
In reply to tobyfk:
I agree with your comments about the size of the topo in the OTE article-worthless!!but certainly don't agree with "sporting up" the trad/mixed areas. I've done about 10 routes @ Brean,trad and sport, and by far the most memorable have been Crack O'Diamonds, Great Corner, Torpedo, Pandora's Box etc.
Sure the fixed gear on The Ocean Wall leaves a lot to be desired but that's a whole new (gigantic)can of worms!!
Perhap's the new guide will provide some impetus for a trad revival @ Brean?
I agree with your comments about the size of the topo in the OTE article-worthless!!but certainly don't agree with "sporting up" the trad/mixed areas. I've done about 10 routes @ Brean,trad and sport, and by far the most memorable have been Crack O'Diamonds, Great Corner, Torpedo, Pandora's Box etc.
Sure the fixed gear on The Ocean Wall leaves a lot to be desired but that's a whole new (gigantic)can of worms!!
Perhap's the new guide will provide some impetus for a trad revival @ Brean?
In reply to tobyfk: Out of interest got out the old guidebook and found I'd done 16 of the trad routes and 6 of the sport routes. Re the Ocean wall area Brean Machine etc. I only did Force Ten an E4 which I remember as very good, although I guess the 2 pegs are probably in a poor condition. I remember wanting to do L'attraction Fatale without the driiled gear (in my dreams!), believe Mr Vickers or was it Martin did it.
As for bolt belays - I actually like the inconvience! That may sound perverse but the most memorable moves on some of those routes were the top outs. I think theres actually a fair ammount of sport or quasi sport climbing within reach of Bristol, Many of the roadside crags at Cheddar have sport routes that are easily cleaned unlike the upper tier ivy-fests, Uphill quarry is mainly committing sport routes, North Quarry's got an excellent E4 slab, Split rocks got some intense stuff, Portishead, the Trym Valley plus much of the Wye Valley, most of S Wales sandstone. Ansteys is about the same distance as Malham is from Sheffield, Portland, alarmingly large parts of Swanage (tut, tut) I'd be well impressed if the Bristol based sports climber had ticked all that lot!
As for bolt belays - I actually like the inconvience! That may sound perverse but the most memorable moves on some of those routes were the top outs. I think theres actually a fair ammount of sport or quasi sport climbing within reach of Bristol, Many of the roadside crags at Cheddar have sport routes that are easily cleaned unlike the upper tier ivy-fests, Uphill quarry is mainly committing sport routes, North Quarry's got an excellent E4 slab, Split rocks got some intense stuff, Portishead, the Trym Valley plus much of the Wye Valley, most of S Wales sandstone. Ansteys is about the same distance as Malham is from Sheffield, Portland, alarmingly large parts of Swanage (tut, tut) I'd be well impressed if the Bristol based sports climber had ticked all that lot!
In reply to Ian Parnell:
Not much if you exclude the 'quasi'. Even less if you exclude the quarries.
Seems to me Brean has
(1) rock that doesn't lend itself to nut protection - witness all the frigged/ drilled gear on the harder 'trad' routes
(2) little history for people to get worked up about. Yes, I know Martin Crocker would have to give his blessing to retro'ing
(3) nowhere near trad areas
(4) a potential bad erosion problem if the trad routes ever became popular and there were no fixed ab points
> I think theres actually a fair ammount of sport or quasi sport climbing within reach of Bristol,
Not much if you exclude the 'quasi'. Even less if you exclude the quarries.
Seems to me Brean has
(1) rock that doesn't lend itself to nut protection - witness all the frigged/ drilled gear on the harder 'trad' routes
(2) little history for people to get worked up about. Yes, I know Martin Crocker would have to give his blessing to retro'ing
(3) nowhere near trad areas
(4) a potential bad erosion problem if the trad routes ever became popular and there were no fixed ab points
In reply to Clark Alston:
Obviously the small number of routes that follow cracks: Torpedo, Great Corner, Pandoras Box , Cyclops Slab, Bones Chimney (!) should be left alone.
> I've done about 10 routes @ Brean,trad and sport, and by far the most memorable have been Crack O'Diamonds, Great Corner, Torpedo, Pandora's Box etc.
Obviously the small number of routes that follow cracks: Torpedo, Great Corner, Pandoras Box , Cyclops Slab, Bones Chimney (!) should be left alone.
In reply to tobyfk:
Obviously.
Although, as you hint, Bones Chimney would make an absolutely - well, I can't quite think of the adjective, but an unusual sport route. Which reminds me, I really must go and do it.
Obviously.
Although, as you hint, Bones Chimney would make an absolutely - well, I can't quite think of the adjective, but an unusual sport route. Which reminds me, I really must go and do it.
In reply to tobyfk: Oh dear Toby! we were getting along so well and now you've made me all angry.
Lets address your points:
Not much sports climbing? why do you want to dissallow the quarries - to be honest the natural home for most sports climbing in the South West i.e. relatively recently developed areas (overlooked in the past), a paucituy of natural pro due to their quarried nature, and to be quite frank at times a bag of shite that no one would bother risking their lives in without bolts.
No Quasi sport routes - ahh! bless the poor dears have the inconvience of having to place the occasional bomber wire. This is such a minor matter on most Cheddar, Trym valley etc routes that I can't see what the fuss is about. Stop whinging and start pulling.
As for the off sited opinion of not many sport routes. This is just rubbish infact I bet if you added up all the sports routes in the south west and south wales you'd have well over a thousand.
Now to the four Brean specific points you raised:
1) "rock that doesn't lend itself to nut protection - witness all the frigged/ drilled gear on the harder 'trad' routes" - quite a few of the trad routes at Brean are very well protected by natural gear, others are spaced - this is in fact one of their strong appeals, some of us like challenge rather than monotonous clip ups
(2) "little history for people to get worked up about. Yes, I know Martin Crocker would have to give his blessing to retro'ing" - Are you sure? Martin may well want to bastardise his contribution but amongst those harder trad routes you'll find history being written by a certain Mr Littlejohn, who I am dead certain would have no truck with this retrobolting muck. His leads of Bones Chimney and Godspeed were major significant ascents in the area. Don't f*ck with our heritage!
(3) "nowhere near trad areas." Eh? what does this mean, it IS a trad area with one small section developed as a sport cliff. It's 10 miles from Cheddar Gorge FFS.
(4) "a potential bad erosion problem if the trad routes ever became popular and there were no fixed ab points 1."
This is at least approaching a sensible point. Interestingly the erosion caused at sport crags due to the influx of sheer numbers is usually much more significant than the odd trad climber nipping up. But if erosion was likely to cause access issues then this is worth discussion. That issue hasn't arisen yet.
All I can say is if you say you've run out of sport routes Have you done Contraband at Llanbradach, Propaganda at Cwmaman, Garth at Hazard Quarry or No Holds Barred at Churston? If you haven't then get on yer bike...if you have congratulations you now have three choices
1. Move to France
2. Give up
3. Grow some balls and feel the spice!!!
Lets address your points:
Not much sports climbing? why do you want to dissallow the quarries - to be honest the natural home for most sports climbing in the South West i.e. relatively recently developed areas (overlooked in the past), a paucituy of natural pro due to their quarried nature, and to be quite frank at times a bag of shite that no one would bother risking their lives in without bolts.
No Quasi sport routes - ahh! bless the poor dears have the inconvience of having to place the occasional bomber wire. This is such a minor matter on most Cheddar, Trym valley etc routes that I can't see what the fuss is about. Stop whinging and start pulling.
As for the off sited opinion of not many sport routes. This is just rubbish infact I bet if you added up all the sports routes in the south west and south wales you'd have well over a thousand.
Now to the four Brean specific points you raised:
1) "rock that doesn't lend itself to nut protection - witness all the frigged/ drilled gear on the harder 'trad' routes" - quite a few of the trad routes at Brean are very well protected by natural gear, others are spaced - this is in fact one of their strong appeals, some of us like challenge rather than monotonous clip ups
(2) "little history for people to get worked up about. Yes, I know Martin Crocker would have to give his blessing to retro'ing" - Are you sure? Martin may well want to bastardise his contribution but amongst those harder trad routes you'll find history being written by a certain Mr Littlejohn, who I am dead certain would have no truck with this retrobolting muck. His leads of Bones Chimney and Godspeed were major significant ascents in the area. Don't f*ck with our heritage!
(3) "nowhere near trad areas." Eh? what does this mean, it IS a trad area with one small section developed as a sport cliff. It's 10 miles from Cheddar Gorge FFS.
(4) "a potential bad erosion problem if the trad routes ever became popular and there were no fixed ab points 1."
This is at least approaching a sensible point. Interestingly the erosion caused at sport crags due to the influx of sheer numbers is usually much more significant than the odd trad climber nipping up. But if erosion was likely to cause access issues then this is worth discussion. That issue hasn't arisen yet.
All I can say is if you say you've run out of sport routes Have you done Contraband at Llanbradach, Propaganda at Cwmaman, Garth at Hazard Quarry or No Holds Barred at Churston? If you haven't then get on yer bike...if you have congratulations you now have three choices
1. Move to France
2. Give up
3. Grow some balls and feel the spice!!!
In reply to tobyfk:
Oh and btw I agree about the topo being a rather foolish size. Also, the letters page this month appeared to have been cut 'n' pasted from some of the more rubbishy outtakes from this very forum. I think Al should sue.
Oh and btw I agree about the topo being a rather foolish size. Also, the letters page this month appeared to have been cut 'n' pasted from some of the more rubbishy outtakes from this very forum. I think Al should sue.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
I thought you'd done bones chimney.
One of PLJ's best sandbag's in SWClimbs. He gives it E4 4c.
I'd second it, But I'd like to get my E3's into double figures beforeI tried that on sight.
I thought you'd done bones chimney.
One of PLJ's best sandbag's in SWClimbs. He gives it E4 4c.
I'd second it, But I'd like to get my E3's into double figures beforeI tried that on sight.
In reply to Ian Parnell:
Ah .. (4) was actually a joke!
On the other points:
Primarily I was talking about the harder, recent routes not the PL routes. See comments on Bones above.
You said I think that you'd only done one of the Ocean Wall - according to the guide Brean Machine and Attraction Fatale have drilled gear, though visually appears to now be rubbish.
Cheddar is another area with confused ethics - it is hardly Pembroke.
Anyway it is a hypothetical discussion and I'm not a local (though I may be going there again today) so hardly likely to drive momentum on this ... clearly the consensus is against or are the pros out there lurking?
> (4) "a potential bad erosion problem if the trad routes ever became popular and there were no fixed ab points 1."
> This is at least approaching a sensible point
> This is at least approaching a sensible point
Ah .. (4) was actually a joke!
On the other points:
Primarily I was talking about the harder, recent routes not the PL routes. See comments on Bones above.
You said I think that you'd only done one of the Ocean Wall - according to the guide Brean Machine and Attraction Fatale have drilled gear, though visually appears to now be rubbish.
Cheddar is another area with confused ethics - it is hardly Pembroke.
Anyway it is a hypothetical discussion and I'm not a local (though I may be going there again today) so hardly likely to drive momentum on this ... clearly the consensus is against or are the pros out there lurking?
In reply to tobyfk:
So tell me, Toby, how would you reconcile your 'nowhere near trad areas' point with your 'no sport climbing near Bristol' point'?
Anyway, I think this is the time for your 'retrobolt Stoney' campaign to begin, isn't it? I'm sure Al E and Ian P among others will be pleased to discuss it with you.
Good luck today - you'll be going for Bones Chimney, I assume?
So tell me, Toby, how would you reconcile your 'nowhere near trad areas' point with your 'no sport climbing near Bristol' point'?
Anyway, I think this is the time for your 'retrobolt Stoney' campaign to begin, isn't it? I'm sure Al E and Ian P among others will be pleased to discuss it with you.
Good luck today - you'll be going for Bones Chimney, I assume?
In reply to tobyfk:
No it looks steady pulling with an ickle chimney at the top.
gear looks shite tho'
at least I know its 5c now.
No it looks steady pulling with an ickle chimney at the top.
gear looks shite tho'
at least I know its 5c now.
In reply to tobyfk:
Hey Toby
Brean Machine and Attraction Fatale both had plenty of good fixed gear, which made them virtual sport routes anyway. If the gear is now untrustworthy then replacement, like for like, will make these route just as climbable as the boulder cove sport routes. Also, the trad route Cove Arete had a load of bomber gear placements, no need to retrobolt it. Bones is obviously destined for UK Classic status so you probably dont want to mess with that. I think the place is just right as is.
More importantly - is that excellent cafe by the car park still running?
Seeya
Andy
Hey Toby
Brean Machine and Attraction Fatale both had plenty of good fixed gear, which made them virtual sport routes anyway. If the gear is now untrustworthy then replacement, like for like, will make these route just as climbable as the boulder cove sport routes. Also, the trad route Cove Arete had a load of bomber gear placements, no need to retrobolt it. Bones is obviously destined for UK Classic status so you probably dont want to mess with that. I think the place is just right as is.
More importantly - is that excellent cafe by the car park still running?
Seeya
Andy
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Actually I said: "but it seems to me that in an area (the south west) with a magnificent collection of aesthetic traditional climbs adding to the small number of sport routes wouldn't hurt" not there's 'no sport climbing near Bristol'.
> (In reply to tobyfk)
>
> So tell me, Toby, how would you reconcile your 'nowhere near trad areas' point with your 'no sport climbing near Bristol' point'?
>
> So tell me, Toby, how would you reconcile your 'nowhere near trad areas' point with your 'no sport climbing near Bristol' point'?
Actually I said: "but it seems to me that in an area (the south west) with a magnificent collection of aesthetic traditional climbs adding to the small number of sport routes wouldn't hurt" not there's 'no sport climbing near Bristol'.
In reply to Ian Parnell:
Hey Ian
That Ian Parnell credited with two FAs of sport routes at Boulder Cove wouldn't be a relative of your's, would he?
Hey Ian
That Ian Parnell credited with two FAs of sport routes at Boulder Cove wouldn't be a relative of your's, would he?
In reply to Andy Donson:
I think so. There was some sort of country and western comwboy outfit event going on amongst the Brean caravaners today so we prefered to hurry along to the crag. I'll check next time.
On a related topic do you know whether anyone's bouldered out the weird concave sea defence wall on the beach along from the cafe? Running dyno for the lip then heinous mantleshelf. Needless to say I couldn't do it.
> More importantly - is that excellent cafe by the car park still running?
I think so. There was some sort of country and western comwboy outfit event going on amongst the Brean caravaners today so we prefered to hurry along to the crag. I'll check next time.
On a related topic do you know whether anyone's bouldered out the weird concave sea defence wall on the beach along from the cafe? Running dyno for the lip then heinous mantleshelf. Needless to say I couldn't do it.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Don't be silly, John, no balls me.
Anyway my partner won't tolerate trad climbing. Oddly his credentials in that regard are otherwise quite respectable: new routed at Gogarth with Alec Sharp in the 70s, partied with Al Harris and is the only person I know with a three star route in the Pass named after him. His comment on this little discussion ran roughly as follows: "obviously they should be retrobolted .... in the desciptions they can say: 'imagine what these routes were like before the new bolts ' - that would do wouldn't it?"
I mention that just so you appreciate there are even more heretical folk out there than me.
> Good luck today - you'll be going for Bones Chimney, I assume?
Don't be silly, John, no balls me.
Anyway my partner won't tolerate trad climbing. Oddly his credentials in that regard are otherwise quite respectable: new routed at Gogarth with Alec Sharp in the 70s, partied with Al Harris and is the only person I know with a three star route in the Pass named after him. His comment on this little discussion ran roughly as follows: "obviously they should be retrobolted .... in the desciptions they can say: 'imagine what these routes were like before the new bolts ' - that would do wouldn't it?"
I mention that just so you appreciate there are even more heretical folk out there than me.
In reply to tobyfk:
Ha, I was going to mention that but decided it would be too off topic. I managed to nail "The Wave" once. The key was to run like mad and launch past the sloper to the flat part on top. The mantle was relatively straigforward. A very wide and compelling problem.
>
> On a related topic do you know whether anyone's bouldered out the weird concave sea defence wall on the beach along from the cafe? Running dyno for the lip then heinous mantleshelf. Needless to say I couldn't do it.
> On a related topic do you know whether anyone's bouldered out the weird concave sea defence wall on the beach along from the cafe? Running dyno for the lip then heinous mantleshelf. Needless to say I couldn't do it.
Ha, I was going to mention that but decided it would be too off topic. I managed to nail "The Wave" once. The key was to run like mad and launch past the sloper to the flat part on top. The mantle was relatively straigforward. A very wide and compelling problem.
In reply to Andy Donson:
John got to the flatties via the mad run but was finding it very powerful to pull into the mantle.
John got to the flatties via the mad run but was finding it very powerful to pull into the mantle.
In reply to the many, many people desperate for accurate beta to this beautiful area
Anyway back to the main topic, this is the right set of routes for THAT topo
Toby's Boulder Cove at Brean Down mini-guide
1. Mountain Hardwear, F6a+ sadly not a good warm up, quite fingery to start.
2. Kraken, F6b+ pretty good
3. Bikin Atoll, F6b+ painful scratching about, a nasty Portland style climb
4. there is no route on this line!
5. Coral Sea, F6c good
6. Chepito F7a very good, lovely pocket at half height, steep
7. Pearl Harbour F6c+ ? certainly not the given F7a, very good, steep
8. no name? F7b/7c? looks very good, steep and sustained
9. Three Snaps to Heaven E6? the thin groove. not a bolt route
10. Tornado E2 Achung Torpedo seems to be the direct finish with a couple of bolts?
11. Kamikaze F7b very good I'm told Clashing Socks wanders around here too with a few bolts higher up left of Kamikaze
12. Brean Topping F8a+
14. Chulilla F7b+? very good though not very independent higher up. Two weird pockets that look drilled, shurely some mistake or are they an ironic statement by the first ascentionist?, overhangs 4m in 15m
15 - 16 Prisoner of Conscience F7b+ almost joins Chulilla higher up, Bullworker takes one of several seemingly interchangeable lines to the right
17 El Chocco F7c my mate couldn't do this. Hard finish apparently. Easy to confuse with the next route on which it is sort of the direct finish with a lefthand start - understood?
18 Root of Inequity alleged F7b but can't be because I onsighted it, so probably F7a+ max, fun boulder start and wild finish
19 Casino Royale seems to have been debolted?
20-22 none of these lines are bolted as far as we could tell
23 pointless girdle traverse
20p has been debited from your Visa card ....
Anyway back to the main topic, this is the right set of routes for THAT topo
Toby's Boulder Cove at Brean Down mini-guide
1. Mountain Hardwear, F6a+ sadly not a good warm up, quite fingery to start.
2. Kraken, F6b+ pretty good
3. Bikin Atoll, F6b+ painful scratching about, a nasty Portland style climb
4. there is no route on this line!
5. Coral Sea, F6c good
6. Chepito F7a very good, lovely pocket at half height, steep
7. Pearl Harbour F6c+ ? certainly not the given F7a, very good, steep
8. no name? F7b/7c? looks very good, steep and sustained
9. Three Snaps to Heaven E6? the thin groove. not a bolt route
10. Tornado E2 Achung Torpedo seems to be the direct finish with a couple of bolts?
11. Kamikaze F7b very good I'm told Clashing Socks wanders around here too with a few bolts higher up left of Kamikaze
12. Brean Topping F8a+
14. Chulilla F7b+? very good though not very independent higher up. Two weird pockets that look drilled, shurely some mistake or are they an ironic statement by the first ascentionist?, overhangs 4m in 15m
15 - 16 Prisoner of Conscience F7b+ almost joins Chulilla higher up, Bullworker takes one of several seemingly interchangeable lines to the right
17 El Chocco F7c my mate couldn't do this. Hard finish apparently. Easy to confuse with the next route on which it is sort of the direct finish with a lefthand start - understood?
18 Root of Inequity alleged F7b but can't be because I onsighted it, so probably F7a+ max, fun boulder start and wild finish
19 Casino Royale seems to have been debolted?
20-22 none of these lines are bolted as far as we could tell
23 pointless girdle traverse
20p has been debited from your Visa card ....
In reply to tobyfk: Nice mini guide - perhaps you ought to be writing for the mags? fa of Sport routes not me mate I've done FA fa of sport routes!! I suspect I was credited with holding a rope for one of my noble drilling friends of the time, I probably can be credited with getting the 2nd ascent of a few of the easier ones straight after the fa.
By the way confession time I have enjoyed some sport routes!! shocker
Have fun Ian
By the way confession time I have enjoyed some sport routes!! shocker
Have fun Ian
In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: You deleted my post saying the same thing! But in a slightly more cynical tone.
In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: I must be hallucinating then.
In reply to tobyfk:
Changing the subject slightly, is there actually any point in publishing topos in the magazines? What are you supposed to do - take the mag to the crag? Cut it out and stick it in the guide? I don't get it.
Changing the subject slightly, is there actually any point in publishing topos in the magazines? What are you supposed to do - take the mag to the crag? Cut it out and stick it in the guide? I don't get it.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
Every other climbing magazine in every other country fills their mag with topos all the time since it is a good, cost effective way, of getting up-to-date climbing information to people. Just look at each issue of Desnivel; packed full of topos of wonder crags.
For some reason the British mags have never really bothered, which may be because we have had printed guidebooks longer than most, or maybe because there isn't any demand. It could well be a chicken an egg situation though; put them in and people will want more, but people don't ask for them therefore they don't get put in.
I personally can't see any major difficulties in taking a magazine to a crag, or even cutting it out.
Alan
> Changing the subject slightly, is there actually any point in publishing topos in the magazines? What are you supposed to do - take the mag to the crag? Cut it out and stick it in the guide? I don't get it.
Every other climbing magazine in every other country fills their mag with topos all the time since it is a good, cost effective way, of getting up-to-date climbing information to people. Just look at each issue of Desnivel; packed full of topos of wonder crags.
For some reason the British mags have never really bothered, which may be because we have had printed guidebooks longer than most, or maybe because there isn't any demand. It could well be a chicken an egg situation though; put them in and people will want more, but people don't ask for them therefore they don't get put in.
I personally can't see any major difficulties in taking a magazine to a crag, or even cutting it out.
Alan
In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX: Or, heaven forbid, copying it. I have seen a few people wandering around northcott and sandymouth with an OTE tucked under their arm, as this is the only source of up to date information on the area.
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:
dewar-hogan can't afford a photocopier then john?
Topos are an excellent way of filling mags. They can even persuade me to part with cash instead of just browsing through in WH Smiths! Alan has realised there is a demand by producing the miniguides, which are/could be mag. articles.
Of course ote screw up. Amen to 'The magazine that never fails to disappoint'.
dewar-hogan can't afford a photocopier then john?
Topos are an excellent way of filling mags. They can even persuade me to part with cash instead of just browsing through in WH Smiths! Alan has realised there is a demand by producing the miniguides, which are/could be mag. articles.
Of course ote screw up. Amen to 'The magazine that never fails to disappoint'.
In reply to Ian Parnell:
Check out wyeclimb.com - you and Francis Haden (someone else I don't normally associate with bolts!) apparently 'both led' two of these routes!
Check out wyeclimb.com - you and Francis Haden (someone else I don't normally associate with bolts!) apparently 'both led' two of these routes!
In reply to Alan James, ROCKFAX:
Shame on you Alan - the CC will be bringing out the new area guide 'next year'
Shame on you Alan - the CC will be bringing out the new area guide 'next year'
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