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Mick Fowler's Adze

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Removed User 29 Oct 2007

In this month's 'Climb' there is a picture of Mick Fowler climbing a new mountain. He appears to have a larger than normal adze on his axe (though the picture is a little difficult to make out) which makes sense if you need to cut a stance or ledge for sleeping on. Anyone know if this is a standard piece of kit or if it was a home modification?
 First Ascent 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User: Its a home welding job onto an old style Black Diamond Black Prophet-Not recommended!
Removed User 29 Oct 2007
In reply to First Ascent:

Is this from first hand experience?
 Alex Roddie 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User:
So basically, he's going back to using a decent sized adze, like they used to have in the old days?

I haven't seen the picture myself, but a lot of modern technical tools have ridiculously small adzes that are only of any use for cleaning ice screw placements or other climbing tasks, and are far less efficient for more traditional activities.
 First Ascent 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User: If you mean do I know its a Black Prophet that Mick has welded then yes. Hes used that axe for years.
If you mean have I tried welding one then no I havent and I wouldnt recommend it.
 TobyA 29 Oct 2007
In reply to First Ascent: Did Mick do his own welding? If so, he truly is a multitalented chap!

OP - the "Fowler adze" is mentioned in a number of his books and articles. IIRC he says it helps on "vertical snow" and the like.
 Andy Nisbet 29 Oct 2007
In reply to TobyA:

In the 70s most folk in Aberdeen climbed with two Terrordactyl adzes ( a very large adze) and a separate peg hammer. As you say, good for hard snow. I climbed Parallel Gully B in 1977 on adze placments all the way at about Grade III. Quite disappointing, having psyched up for years.
Removed User 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

I had a Barracuda/Chacal combo and that had a useful big adze with a steep angle as well, almost like a mini deadman and very reassuring topping out on slush or downclimbing the start of a descent gully. I do wonder where the current fashion for very small adzes came from.
 Norrie Muir 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Andy Nisbet:

I used two Terrordactyl hammers, as they were better balanced than the axes. The axes were good on some snow placement when I did use them.
 Norrie Muir 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to Removed UserAndy Nisbet)
>
I do wonder where the current fashion for very small adzes came from.

Torquing on mixed routes.
 TobyA 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User:
> I do wonder where the current fashion for very small adzes came from.

Pure ice. Since leaving Scotland I can't really remember when I last used the adze of my Quark on an ice fall. Last year I bought leashless reactors and they have taken it to the logical endpoint and you can't buy them with an adze. For most ice routes you use just hand placed screws now, and with curved shafts both the adze and hammer is harder to use on modern tools.

I also had a Barracuda and they did have the best adze for snow - although they weren't as good as the one of my Pulsar for torquing with.
 Monk 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User:

I met him recently on a book tour. Apparently he had that adze attached as a custom job, but he didn't do his own welding. Can't remember where he got it, but it was some sort of random small shop somewhere.
Removed User 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:

I wouldn't be too confident torquing on the delicate looking wee adzes on some tools, especially the grivel ones. The barracuda ones were a bit too steep an angle for this but the older wide adzes on Vertiges were the business.

I used to have a terror hammer, and someone gave me a shot of another one once. I used them on the Screen and the Smear and liked them.
 Andy Nisbet 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Norrie Muir:
> I do wonder where the current fashion for very small adzes came from.
>
> Torquing on mixed routes.

I don't think so, because they went small before the manufacturers realised they were being used for torquing. I broke one and when I asked for a replacement (as Aberdonians do), I was told no chance I'd misused it.

 Norrie Muir 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Andy Nisbet:
> (In reply to Norrie Muir)
> [...]
>
> I don't think so, because they went small before the manufacturers realised they were being used for torquing. I broke one and when I asked for a replacement (as Aberdonians do), I was told no chance I'd misused it.

I don't think you were the first or only person to make their adze smaller or re-shaped their hammer or even modify winter climbing gear.

We got replacements without question as the shop assistants could tell by our innocent expression that it was a fault by the manufacturer.
 blackcurrant 29 Oct 2007
In reply to Removed User: Its not like it matters or anything, im just curious, but in vertical this month it looks like its actually riveted on, is it really welded?

Just curious. He's the best taxman I know.

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