In reply to SuperK: Hi there, wonder if some examples might help to clarify maybe:
1) Event stuff is more breathable than Paclite/XCR/ProShell etc but is still a conventional layering system. It's as warm as the layers underneath in effect. It's not as breathable as an uncoated system. 3 layers of icebreaker + Superfly on top + wet snow falling = Coronet peak to yourself for a while but cold on the lifts!
2) "Winter Soft shell" stuff like Buffalo and the Montane Extreme is very insulated, very breathable, and very horrible when the sun comes up on the glacier. I had a montane extreme smock and IMHO it was better than the Buffalo version for me and the hood was great, but got most use in scottish winter grovelling. I did carry it in summer for some years for putting on at stances, lunch etc. I couldn't exercise in it outside of winter without overheating even with all the zips open and nothing underneath. I wore it in a damp and gloomy French Ridge hut a few years ago in lovely Matukituki rain when we were stormed in but not whilst squelching back out...
3) "Summer soft shell" is again not waterproof as such but less insulated and more breathable. It's more versatile but IMHO not enough for really nasty conditions. Rab Vapour Rise and Marmot Driclime are the usual types. I have a VR smock which is very useful (and I wore last year whilst not getting to Barron Saddle in February, and telemarking near Tekapo a few years back). If the forecast is bad or uncertain I usually take my Montane Event jacket just in case to go over it if it's pouring down.
4) "Belay jackets" are basically like down jackets that don't contain any down i.e. designed to be put on when stationary, and can go with any of the above systems if needed. Usually synthetic insulation or pile and not too concerned about getting wet. I have a thin one (like a Patagonia puffball) made by Haglofs but would bet a Rab Photon if buying a new one. It gets used on mountain marathons if bad weather in camp, scraping the ice off the car, lunch stop when tramping in Arthurs Pass, you get the idea. I was given a thick one many years ago that was like a giant Buffalo, made by Remploy, and I can't recall ever using it!
Hope this helps with your decisions,
Ben B