UKC

Mention a Littlejohn route, and the word that most often comes to mind is 'commitment'.

Pat's approach to climbing is clearly defined. He is totally convinced that the ground-up onsight approach is by far the most rewarding climbing experience to be had.

So what better recommendation could you have for your first XS, that fuzzy experience that defys any numerical tag.

(Yes, Pat says, this account was partially inspired by the series of "My First Lead' essays at UKClimbing.com.)

It's called Hornblower (400 feet, Mild Extremely Severe), it isn't in any guidebook yet and it ascends an extremely impressive precipice called Paitsh, on Cilan Head, North Wales.

Read more, if you dare: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=672

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Threaded rabbit hole belays? Steep grass in rock shoes?
Yikes.

Good FA XS on Committed....Nial McNair out on Pabbay. Hair raising.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Sounds quite reasonable and rather good fun. I'm almost tempted.

AJM

Now that's a good article.
Why doesn't Climb print something like that instead of the normal rubbish.

In reply to Henry Loveless:

What is it you like so much about it?

Why don't they print something like it? Probably because it's too short and doesn't have photo's of a big enough quality, or more so probably because it hasn't been sent into them.

Sound like a good route, I wonder how many people will do it now as a consequence?

In reply to andi turner:



Nope, not too short and yes does have photos.


No idea, but Pat sent it to us, as I said partially inspired by the UKC's My First Lead essay series.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Great article. Climbing is about adventure but a lot of 'everyday' climbing just isn't adventurous enough to be exciting in prose unless the writer is special.
An analogy is mountain biking on telly. Even fairly mild mountain biking is an adrenaline-pumping experience for the rider, but is a feast of torpid dullness on TV. Only 'extreme' downhill or trials translates at all well (funnily enough though bmx looks great on telly).
A climb like this one sends its thrills through even modest language. Nice work Pat. makes me want to go and do it (I won't, obviously, but still...)

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Looks brilliant. I might even be there...

I think Controlled Burning's a bit of a Freudian slip though: it's Controlled Explosions, no?

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Yes, Controlled Explosions.

That's a brilliant article, have already printed a version off to update my rather battered lleyn guide. Sounds just the thing for a calm winter day.

In reply to Adam L:

Updated. Thanks.

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

You're right. A slip definitely, but Freudian?

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

At his peak very few could do what he did...others may have led harder new routes, after abseil inspection, top rope practice etc..his style was ground up, onsight and chalkless...maximum respect...

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Good article, interesting and hopefully inspirational.

Looks and sounds pretty similar to some of my local cliffs <shudder>
jk

In reply to Pat Littlejohn:

CB's a brilliant route, this is a brilliant route, therefore it must be called CB. Something like that anyway.

jcm

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Or more like 'what's that route I did that fell down?'

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Do you often answer questions for other people? One of my pet hates, that is. It's further emphasised by the way you haven't really answered to what I said, I can see it has photographs.

I think it's a wonderful article and about a fantastic place to climb. I was simply giving some reasons why a magazine like Climb may not have printed it. I take offence, as an occasional contributor to Climb, when people refer to their articles as rubbish. I also asked what was 'good' about this one that isn't 'good' about the ones they publish, valid questioning I think.

Once again a great article and inspirational for another trip to the Lleyn soon.

In reply to andi turner:


Subject matter and the way it's dealt with by illustrating the point with a route which *might* persuade a (probably) small number of people to try something different.

On a very basic level that's it I think. Thought provoking for many of us I guess.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Just did it today - superb trip.
Lleyn rocks!

In reply to Milgi: Well done you, must have been a lovely day

In reply to Milgi:

nice one .