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"The Secret", 70m - Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott, 10 December 2007
The often eyed but rarely tried (except by one or two very strong teams) crack on the right wall of Number 3 Gully, Ben Nevis had it's first ascent today. The strong team - Turnemater, Ashworth and Scott timed their raid from the South to perfection and experienced superb frosty conditions and great weather for the ascent.
Ashworth described the "approach" pitch as harder than Sioux Wall and the main pitch, led by Andy, as much, much harder than Knuckleduster. The main pitch involved a mind-boggling array of axe techniques from double can openers to wacky arm hooks around tools to effect some kind of rest. This brutally sustained 35m crack pitch ranged from fist to finger width and was fully iced inside meaning the payload of large cams carried was for ballast only!
The route was led entirely on-sight and in perfect style. A fantastic example of the traditional Scottish winter ethic and perhaps the hardest winter route in the UK led in this style. Discuss!
The route continues the great tradition of dossers at our house in Fort William going up onto the Ben, strapping it on and doing the business. Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner, Knuckleduster and now the Secret. Not sponsored heroes, but like Colton and Mcyntire in the 70's just getting out there, trying hard and producing some fantastic first ascents......Good effort boys!
To view some of the photos & video courtesy of Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott and Sam Loveday visit:
http://www.highlandguides.com/winterreports0708.htm
The often eyed but rarely tried (except by one or two very strong teams) crack on the right wall of Number 3 Gully, Ben Nevis had it's first ascent today. The strong team - Turnemater, Ashworth and Scott timed their raid from the South to perfection and experienced superb frosty conditions and great weather for the ascent.
Ashworth described the "approach" pitch as harder than Sioux Wall and the main pitch, led by Andy, as much, much harder than Knuckleduster. The main pitch involved a mind-boggling array of axe techniques from double can openers to wacky arm hooks around tools to effect some kind of rest. This brutally sustained 35m crack pitch ranged from fist to finger width and was fully iced inside meaning the payload of large cams carried was for ballast only!
The route was led entirely on-sight and in perfect style. A fantastic example of the traditional Scottish winter ethic and perhaps the hardest winter route in the UK led in this style. Discuss!
The route continues the great tradition of dossers at our house in Fort William going up onto the Ben, strapping it on and doing the business. Rhyme of the Ancient Mariner, Knuckleduster and now the Secret. Not sponsored heroes, but like Colton and Mcyntire in the 70's just getting out there, trying hard and producing some fantastic first ascents......Good effort boys!
To view some of the photos & video courtesy of Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott and Sam Loveday visit:
http://www.highlandguides.com/winterreports0708.htm
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Yep, that as well!
> (In reply to blueshound)
>
> Don't feel inadequate - Feel INSPIRED.
>
> Don't feel inadequate - Feel INSPIRED.
Yep, that as well!
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Looks like an awesome route. Well done. Inspirational!
In reply to Rob Jarvis: I liked the video and the leaders only comment "Fu*king Awesome" (shame it's not longer). What a route!
In reply to dek:
That chap doesn't appear to be wearing leashes, what on earth is he playing at?
That chap doesn't appear to be wearing leashes, what on earth is he playing at?
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
News report and video up at UKC News: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Thanks Rob and James.
News report and video up at UKC News: http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
Thanks Rob and James.
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Fantastic effort Andy; looks highly futuristic! Kenny was full of praise for your lead.
Fantastic effort Andy; looks highly futuristic! Kenny was full of praise for your lead.
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Nah. Inadequate does it for me...
It must be a summer route. Anyone know what it is? (and grade). No guidebook to hand.
> (In reply to blueshound)
>
> Don't feel inadequate - Feel INSPIRED.
>
> Don't feel inadequate - Feel INSPIRED.
Nah. Inadequate does it for me...
It must be a summer route. Anyone know what it is? (and grade). No guidebook to hand.
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Great effort. What's the grade then? I'm sure it will be controversial!
The video is two and half minutes of the chaps umming and ahhing thinking about what to do next, then 15 seconds of action. Kinda sums up mixed climbing eh!?
Well done chaps - wonderful weather for December as well!
The video is two and half minutes of the chaps umming and ahhing thinking about what to do next, then 15 seconds of action. Kinda sums up mixed climbing eh!?
Well done chaps - wonderful weather for December as well!
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Well done guys! And it's brill to see just what can be done and not just read about it.
Toby, I was wondering too when watching the vid, just how long it took to climb the route. And also, what exactly is a 'can opener?'
Toby, I was wondering too when watching the vid, just how long it took to climb the route. And also, what exactly is a 'can opener?'
Incredible. Well done, guys.
[Note to Tim's seconds: if you ever see me acting on lead like Andy does in the video, it's because I'm gripped stupid, haven't the faintest what to do, and need to be told to come down again immediately. If I can.]
[Note to Tim's seconds: if you ever see me acting on lead like Andy does in the video, it's because I'm gripped stupid, haven't the faintest what to do, and need to be told to come down again immediately. If I can.]
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Great pictures Rob and well done all round. I'll text Andy.
Certainly does continue the tradtition eh? Douglas Place, Ashburn Lane and now Banff Crescent... The FW venues make waves again.
Great pictures Rob and well done all round. I'll text Andy.
Certainly does continue the tradtition eh? Douglas Place, Ashburn Lane and now Banff Crescent... The FW venues make waves again.
In reply to Donald M:
Banff Crescent: home of the hardcore!
Banff Crescent: home of the hardcore!
In reply to gaz.marshall:
Certainly is. Ask Rob and Danny about NO7 and Ashburn Lane and the tax system......
Certainly is. Ask Rob and Danny about NO7 and Ashburn Lane and the tax system......
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
"... strapping it on and doing the business." Ooo-err.
Think I've got a motto for this season now.
"... strapping it on and doing the business." Ooo-err.
Think I've got a motto for this season now.
In reply to Donald M:
That is good to hear, when I had a flat in Fassifern Road, I had Rab Carrington, Al Rouse, Mick Geddes, Kenny Spence, Con Higgins and a few others in the flat. They were not as illustrious as the modern lot.
> (In reply to Rob Jarvis)
>
> Certainly does continue the tradtition eh? Douglas Place, Ashburn Lane and now Banff Crescent... The FW venues make waves again.
>
> Certainly does continue the tradtition eh? Douglas Place, Ashburn Lane and now Banff Crescent... The FW venues make waves again.
That is good to hear, when I had a flat in Fassifern Road, I had Rab Carrington, Al Rouse, Mick Geddes, Kenny Spence, Con Higgins and a few others in the flat. They were not as illustrious as the modern lot.
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Awesome effort boys. By the end of season I think the ammount of really hard climbing on the Ben will be transformed, this is a fantastic start - definately inspiring.
In reply to gourd:
Only recorded route ( in my older guide book) in that bit of wall, I think, is
CHINOOK (65m) HVS* (1984) 4th July, D. Hawthorn & A. Paul.
Or Mabye
It's not been done is summer - yet????
Only recorded route ( in my older guide book) in that bit of wall, I think, is
CHINOOK (65m) HVS* (1984) 4th July, D. Hawthorn & A. Paul.
Or Mabye
It's not been done is summer - yet????
In reply to Rob Jarvis: That is an impressive ascent but it was an extremely boring peice of film.
In reply to aln:
Let's see. The route was climbed Monday...before they even got down it was reported on here, with a full detailed report coming a few hours later. Multiple photos, first hand report and a video - a short video that gives a flavour of the climbing.
PLUS...this morning, 24 hours after the ascent, it's on our popular news page which will have about 3,500 peole visiting it today.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2007#41563
I say thanks Rob and James, and ascensionists Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott.
Mick
> (In reply to Rob Jarvis) That is an impressive ascent but it was an extremely boring peice of film.
Let's see. The route was climbed Monday...before they even got down it was reported on here, with a full detailed report coming a few hours later. Multiple photos, first hand report and a video - a short video that gives a flavour of the climbing.
PLUS...this morning, 24 hours after the ascent, it's on our popular news page which will have about 3,500 peole visiting it today.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2007#41563
I say thanks Rob and James, and ascensionists Andy Turner, Steve Ashworth, Viv Scott.
Mick
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Top effort all round..looks awesome.
I take it the Beige Palace is no longer in safe hands then?
I take it the Beige Palace is no longer in safe hands then?
In reply to Pinch'a'salt:
The Beige Palace was bought by a cousin of the Murphys. One day I went past and the guy told me he had opened the floor - big mistake! It was full of water and other "stuff".......
Happy memories!
The Beige Palace was bought by a cousin of the Murphys. One day I went past and the guy told me he had opened the floor - big mistake! It was full of water and other "stuff".......
Happy memories!
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Ok, well done to the guys, great climb. It was still a boring film. A guy standing while fiddling around with his axe.
In reply to Rob Jarvis: congrats to the lads, strong modern line in hard looking nick. The video sums up scottish mixed climbing well, delighted he went for the sequence and got a bomber hook in the crack!
also love the photo of andy using his knees, the usefulness of knees whilst mixed climbing shouldnt be underestimated!
inspiring stuff
also love the photo of andy using his knees, the usefulness of knees whilst mixed climbing shouldnt be underestimated!
inspiring stuff
In reply to scotmountain:
Might be a good pitch but you'd have to probably have to pick your way over a minefield of loose choss to get near it in summer; the Ciste probably isn't known as a rock-climbing buttress without reason!
That having been said that square-cut arete to the left does look like an obvious challenge to the obscenely talented..
> Or maybe it's not been done is summer - yet????
Might be a good pitch but you'd have to probably have to pick your way over a minefield of loose choss to get near it in summer; the Ciste probably isn't known as a rock-climbing buttress without reason!
That having been said that square-cut arete to the left does look like an obvious challenge to the obscenely talented..
In reply to Jamie B.:
Erm, will be a hard pitch, if theres enough to hold ya and get any gear in...!
Would be an awesome route! I'll hold anyone's ropes on that stuff.........
> That having been said that square-cut arete to the left does look like an obvious challenge to the obscenely talented..
Erm, will be a hard pitch, if theres enough to hold ya and get any gear in...!
Would be an awesome route! I'll hold anyone's ropes on that stuff.........
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Once in a while in sport, the bar is significantly raised. These events are rare, but this is such a moment.
Congratulations guys - very well done!
Once in a while in sport, the bar is significantly raised. These events are rare, but this is such a moment.
Congratulations guys - very well done!
In reply to Jamie B.:
If you were going for the modern idiom you could always abseil in?
> (In reply to scotmountain)
>
> [...]
>
> Might be a good pitch but you'd have to probably have to pick your way over a minefield of loose choss to get near it in summer; the Ciste probably isn't known as a rock-climbing buttress without reason!
>
> That having been said that square-cut arete to the left does look like an obvious challenge to the obscenely talented..
>
> [...]
>
> Might be a good pitch but you'd have to probably have to pick your way over a minefield of loose choss to get near it in summer; the Ciste probably isn't known as a rock-climbing buttress without reason!
>
> That having been said that square-cut arete to the left does look like an obvious challenge to the obscenely talented..
If you were going for the modern idiom you could always abseil in?
In reply to Simon Richardson:
Hope you don't mind Simon.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2007#41563
Hope you don't mind Simon.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2007#41563
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
The video had 131 views this morning before embedding it in the UKC news page, now it is at 1,205 views.
#16 - Most Viewed (Today) - Sports - United Kingdom
The video had 131 views this morning before embedding it in the UKC news page, now it is at 1,205 views.
#16 - Most Viewed (Today) - Sports - United Kingdom
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
a fantastic achievement by the boys and a great bit of news gathering by UKC however the video is dull however many times its been viewed.
still worth having though.
a fantastic achievement by the boys and a great bit of news gathering by UKC however the video is dull however many times its been viewed.
still worth having though.
In reply to SI A: That's wot I said.
In reply to aln:
Lads...it may be a trailer.
Cast your mind five tears or so when you'd hear about this ascent a month or more after it happened and wouldn't have any incling what the route or conditions were like.
This short video adds a lot of context to the written word.
It may even inspire some to get up the Ben this weekend.
Chew on this: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=dz38ov2sPAs&feature=related
Lads...it may be a trailer.
Cast your mind five tears or so when you'd hear about this ascent a month or more after it happened and wouldn't have any incling what the route or conditions were like.
This short video adds a lot of context to the written word.
It may even inspire some to get up the Ben this weekend.
Chew on this: http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=dz38ov2sPAs&feature=related
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Any grade for this yet ? now that is what I call a line .
As for comments on the video - that's winter climbing for you. I’ve always though a time lapsed sequence of a team clearing there way up a heavily hoared buttress would work well as a short feature in a winter climbing film.
Any grade for this yet ? now that is what I call a line .
As for comments on the video - that's winter climbing for you. I’ve always though a time lapsed sequence of a team clearing there way up a heavily hoared buttress would work well as a short feature in a winter climbing film.
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
good job guys, me and Al Goodridge were doing Tower Ridge and i think we saw you on the route, it looked absolutely nuts from up there. it was only my second day winter climbing and Tower Ridge was sensational, but to witness a little bit of history at the same time is fantastic, really inspiring few days for me. you probably saw us when you were walking out still high up on the ridge with our head-torches on, and maybe you heard us outside the hut on the approach as we stopped for a drink, hope we didnt wake you up!
good job guys, me and Al Goodridge were doing Tower Ridge and i think we saw you on the route, it looked absolutely nuts from up there. it was only my second day winter climbing and Tower Ridge was sensational, but to witness a little bit of history at the same time is fantastic, really inspiring few days for me. you probably saw us when you were walking out still high up on the ridge with our head-torches on, and maybe you heard us outside the hut on the approach as we stopped for a drink, hope we didnt wake you up!
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Looking at that video, i imagine he was super pumped by the time he topped that one out! What a route - super super inspiring. just what you need to get you fired up at the start of the season!
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
you know i always thought that winter routes were done in shorts with the sun shining, especially ones done on the Scottish Riviera.
your right though. it does add context and its is interesting. i was just hoping before it opened for some scary looking tooled up funky moves over a huge run out......guess ill have to wait for the feature length movie.
im not knocking your news gathering element your pretty bang on and your dont exactly have Reuters telefaxing everything through, do you? i dont pay a penny for this service either.
you know i always thought that winter routes were done in shorts with the sun shining, especially ones done on the Scottish Riviera.
your right though. it does add context and its is interesting. i was just hoping before it opened for some scary looking tooled up funky moves over a huge run out......guess ill have to wait for the feature length movie.
im not knocking your news gathering element your pretty bang on and your dont exactly have Reuters telefaxing everything through, do you? i dont pay a penny for this service either.
In reply to SI A:
It is hardly like it was a difficult find. Rob announced it on here, Mick didn't even need to look for it. Mick, then wrote it up and used the photos on Rob's site, which I hope he is paying for.
Bang on and up to date, but hardly hard work to get.
Superb effort Andy, possibly one of the most stylish ascents of all time.
>
> im not knocking your news gathering element your pretty bang on and your dont exactly have Reuters telefaxing everything through, do you? i dont pay a penny for this service either.
> im not knocking your news gathering element your pretty bang on and your dont exactly have Reuters telefaxing everything through, do you? i dont pay a penny for this service either.
It is hardly like it was a difficult find. Rob announced it on here, Mick didn't even need to look for it. Mick, then wrote it up and used the photos on Rob's site, which I hope he is paying for.
Bang on and up to date, but hardly hard work to get.
Superb effort Andy, possibly one of the most stylish ascents of all time.
In reply to Rob Jarvis: Can only add to the congratulations to all 3, especially Andy - now thats the way to put up a new route! Kenny climbed Darth Vader the same day but said he spent more time being distracted by what was going on on The Secret than focussed on his own lead!
Sometimes I have time to trawl the forums (cheers to Rob for posting the links) and some times I only have time to check the news page so good call Mick on making it a news item - UKC has made keeping up to date with whats going on closer to 'real time' than ever before and I appreciate it.
Al
Sometimes I have time to trawl the forums (cheers to Rob for posting the links) and some times I only have time to check the news page so good call Mick on making it a news item - UKC has made keeping up to date with whats going on closer to 'real time' than ever before and I appreciate it.
Al
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
I was climbing Gargoyle Wall at the time and it really was an awesome display, was great to sit open-mouthed on the Number Three Gully Buttress viewing platform in the afternoon sun watching something pretty special unfold.
It was quite amusing when Kenny was giving us a lift down in his van and we found out that the news had already hit the web before they'd even made it off the hill...
I was climbing Gargoyle Wall at the time and it really was an awesome display, was great to sit open-mouthed on the Number Three Gully Buttress viewing platform in the afternoon sun watching something pretty special unfold.
It was quite amusing when Kenny was giving us a lift down in his van and we found out that the news had already hit the web before they'd even made it off the hill...
fantastic effort and, maybe oddly, I really enjoyed the short video clip. Kind of what it's like on a hard lead (slight understatement I know) - the waiting for everything to feel right then committing to the moves. Hopefully there's some more of it to be shown sometime. The pictures on the website look superb too.
In reply to JonC:
Steve Asworth has kindly posted more video, you can watch it here:
http://www.mixedmaster.blogspot.com/
Steve Asworth has kindly posted more video, you can watch it here:
http://www.mixedmaster.blogspot.com/
In reply to JonC:
Certainly a lot more "real" than some hone/chick flexing their way through a sunny boulder problem after the 20th take...
Certainly a lot more "real" than some hone/chick flexing their way through a sunny boulder problem after the 20th take...
In reply to Jamie B.: X,10 onsight......that's inspiring!
In reply to Alasdair Fulton: looks like an amazing route, and a great effort.
bit confused about simon richardson's comment though: "Once in a while in sport, the bar is significantly raised. These events are rare, but this is such a moment"
has the bar been significantly raised? maybe The Hurting wasn't on-sighted(?), but is this such a huge leap from something like that?
bit confused about simon richardson's comment though: "Once in a while in sport, the bar is significantly raised. These events are rare, but this is such a moment"
has the bar been significantly raised? maybe The Hurting wasn't on-sighted(?), but is this such a huge leap from something like that?
In reply to Rob Jarvis:
Suprised no one has pointed out that it's not much of a bloody secret is it?
Suprised no one has pointed out that it's not much of a bloody secret is it?
In reply to Burnsie: sorry burnsie, not following you?
In reply to abcdef:
UKC pish & conjecturing : Someone does something hard and impressive and then a bunch of armchair fannies debate on the internet whether indeed it was hard and impressive.
I refuse to take part in the UKC pish and conjecturing : suffice to say i think it's a 'kin impressive ascent done onsight.
more here :
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-secret-andy-turner
UKC pish & conjecturing : Someone does something hard and impressive and then a bunch of armchair fannies debate on the internet whether indeed it was hard and impressive.
I refuse to take part in the UKC pish and conjecturing : suffice to say i think it's a 'kin impressive ascent done onsight.
more here :
http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web07-08w/newswire-secret-andy-turner
In reply to Burnsie: perhaps you shouldn't frequent internet forums then if you are not keen on pish and conjecture?
In reply to abcdef: the key here is onsight groundup, this looks harder than grade IX which was the previous high point for onsight groundup (dave macleods ascent of a new IX 9 on Creag an Socach), so guessing from the comments of ashworth and scott this is harder than IX therefore it has raised the bar. New routing onsight groundup is a soul searching journey into the unkown and is the ultimate in winter climbing style, the 'blind' nature of the conditions encountered makes this ascent even more remarkable.
In reply to Erik B: It is X 10 on Steve's blog.
In reply to Erik B:
The 'blind' nature of the climbing?! I'm not with you Eric. Looks pretty obvious where the route goes to me!!!!
The 'blind' nature of the climbing?! I'm not with you Eric. Looks pretty obvious where the route goes to me!!!!
In reply to Wry Gob: i said blind nature of the conditions centurion, plastered = blind, ie footies,gear, axe placements hidden. but yes its obvious where to go, characteristics of a good line
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