UKC

Whilst avoiding the wet weather this Sunday gone I decided to opt for a session at the indoor wall.

Whilst climbing I noticed that the tapes on the 'in-situ' quickdraws were looking a little frayed round the edges and it got me thinking, when were these buggers last changed or even checked ? For that matter what about the clips themselves. These were E4/E5 routes with a knarley crux which must have spat a fair few people off in their time. A fellow climber told me that certain tapes had never been changed (that's in over 6 Years).

What are the figures for falls on quickdraws? Any wall owners care to comment ? How often do you change check and change them ?

In reply to Mike Kerby: I think anything in a indoor wall can be considered sound. Firstly they won't risk getting theur ass sued if something like a poxy bit of tape snaps. Secondly this stuff lasts for ever and a day - recent studies show UV degredation to be neglible. Unless its actually cut its probably fine.

In reply to Sam:

do some work sam you slack, stripey headed cnut.

In reply to Mike Kerby:
six years is longer than the maximum limit usually mentioned in the instructions to tape extenders, this is five years max for any nylon or spectra/dyneema product.

In reply to Woker: but as explained in the instructions this is a limit set by EU legislation about obsolences

In reply to Jon Greengrass:
are you sure you are not getting confused about the 10 year limit for metal products ? I've certainly never heard ths same said about material (ie they have to have an EU limit of 5 years). Nylon certainly does degrade, don't ask me how but I've seen some rotten looking insitu nylon on some crags.... Also as another point when the stiching starts fluffing and bubbling it's finished also.....

In reply to Woker: nope the manufacturers are obliged to supply an obsolecence (how do you spell it?) date for all PPE (personal protective equipment)

In reply to Jon Greengrass:
oh yes I agree on that, but the EU does have an upper limit on any product of 10 years, or atleast I know that's true for metal products, I'm not sure for material, but if you have to supply an obsolecence date say for less than 10 years and you believe your product will last 10 years then why not say that ?

In reply to Woker: The obsolescence date for tapes is 5 years - regardless of how long they will probably last any wall, or commercial organisation would be foolish to use them any longer. Also they must have records showing when they were new, and of regular inspections.

In reply to Sam:
If it's the wall I think it is, then yes, some of them are rather on the elderly side . . . and the wall has been successfully sued on several occasions.

There are, however, some new maillons on some of the lower bolts, so presumably someone *does* check.

In reply to Wingnut:
After reading up on the subject apparently slings are subjected to all the same load properties as a rope and do weaken as they are loaded from falls....