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Dip in performance, methods to get you back on form?

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Anonymous 13 Dec 2007
Hi

Climb regularly maybe 3times a week at my wall (ratho) and things have been going well of late, and got onsighting 6c+ and redpointing 7a. Usually do all the right things re warm ups, routes etc....
Last few sessions though I have been really struggling, getting pumped after a couple of straightforward routes I know well, and generally taking a backward step. So much so I left the wall in a huff last night after failing on a 6a!!!
Help!
What can I do to be back on form? Thought about a break but worried I will loose strength, any ideas very much accepted.
Steve.
 niggle 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

I had the same problem at Ratho a coupe of months ago - my performance plateaued and then dipped sharply.

Luckily my partner did me a favour and went to New Zealand on holiday for three weeks, so I bouldered while he was away and when he came back I climbed better than I ever have!

Ratho's routes are all so long and so steep that there's a risk of getting into an overtraining mode or worse becoming accustomed to those routes where no individual move is that hard, there's just a lot of them.

Delivering a shock to the system in the form of some good hard bouldering seemed to snap me out of it, maybe it could work for you?
 Andy Farnell 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous: Do something different, say bouldering, for a couple of weeks. This should help with your psyhce and strength.

Andy F
OP Anonymous 13 Dec 2007
In reply to andy farnell: Not sure it is a psyce thing, I really want to climb harder, and still enjoy the routes. I am just pumped after 5 minutes and lack the strength I had a week or so ago.
Could'nt lock off on moves I could easily a few weeks ago. Finger strength seems to be on a dip too!
Understand the bouldering suggestion and will try it, though I did last night and didn't have any strength to do anyhting other than pad around on slabby bits. Not sure thats of any use...Maybe it is?
Any other ideas,
Steve.
 Ewan_B 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

Sounds like a classic case of over-training to me (I've done it, too). It sounds counter-intuitive, but try taking a week off as niggle suggested. Sleep and stretch lots and give yourself a chance to recover fully before going back.

You might want to think about some light aerobic exercise, if you don't do any at the moment.
 Quiddity 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Ewan_B:

>Sounds like a classic case of over-training to me (I've done it, too).

Agreed. Some times when inexplicable things keep going wrong with your body, I think it is just time to listen to what it's trying to tell you - ie. that you may be driving it too hard, and it wants a week or two off.

It's frustrating, as when you go back after a short lay off things feel impossibly hard, but I usually find I get back to my previous level (and am pushing things I couldn't have done before) in a very short space of time.
OP Anonymous 13 Dec 2007
In reply to plexiglass_nick: interesting so having a few days off might be the way forward. Is this common, I thought it was a case of if at first you dont succeed, train harder. The only other thing thats going on in the last few weeks is getting out on the hill for a few winter routes, I wonder if that is having a knock on effect?
Steve.
 BelleVedere 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

I remember reading in a training diary in one of the mags - for the 2 weeks over x-mas the advice was DONT CLIMB - instead hang out with your mate/family and stick to the cardio workouts/yoga.
 UKB Shark 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous: Hi Steve

My understanding gleaned from 'performance rock climbing' is that recovery in climbing/training works in macro and micro cycles.

Micro cycles relate to the days of recovery required between sessions from week to week. Macro cycles mean that if you dont take say the occassional week off the cumulative effect of going hard at it for several months of doing the same sort of thing will lead to burnout - particularly if the focus of the work is power endurance.

I remember at one stage when I was climbing loads for an extended period my leading standard plummeted to getting pumped on routes several grades below what I was used to.

Take some time out or if thats too hard to stomach just do grade 5s as active rest.
 Chris the Tall 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:
I think you witnessed a particularly good example of that last week !
OP Anonymous 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Simon Lee:

> Take some time out or if thats too hard to stomach just do grade 5s as active rest.

Like the sound of that far more!

Its so hard to lay off though, because you are slowing going down hill you naturally want to try harder and thus you continue to go down hill and therefore try harder etc... Maybe a day or two off is the way forward.
Steve.
 Ewan_B 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

Relatedly, do you have a training plan? It's much easier to discipline yourself to rest if you look at it in context of planned improvement.
OP Anonymous 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Ewan_B: No Anyone got a good plan, allowing for climbing 3 times a week?
Steve.
 UKB Shark 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

I have linked a number of articles here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502

To avoid getting bogged down start with Dave Macleod's excellent Rough Guide to Physical Training and take it from there
 Quiddity 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous:

>interesting so having a few days off might be the way forward. Is this common, I thought it was a case of if at first you dont succeed, train harder. The only other thing thats going on in the last few weeks is getting out on the hill for a few winter routes, I wonder if that is having a knock on effect?

Yeah, it's frustrating to do it. The way I look at it, you can only push your body so far before it needs time to regroup and rest. When you start back, it's recovered and it's potential for getting stronger is greater.

If you don't take the time out, it will force the time out on you, in the form of injuries. I really noticed this recently, you need to ask yourself honestly whether the reason you can't pull on hold X when you could easily last week, is that you haven't been training hard enough?

I am pretty sure this is common, think most people take weeks out from time to time.
 gingerdave13 13 Dec 2007
In reply to Anonymous: you've got to realise when it's time to have a break and although a few days is ok a WEEK will be much better - hell you could even make it two and you would probably come back feeling stronger, ready to attack stuff and climbing harder..

3 times a week indefinately is NOT the way to go.. you've got to understand rest and recuperation is just as important as training!!!

keep overcooking it that way and you'll get injured and then you'll be forced to have a month or more off! which would you prefer?
OP Anonymous 13 Dec 2007
In reply to gingerdave13:

Steroids, a good quick fix

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