UKC

Greenland Ice Climbing Trip...

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davidlloydhudson 26 Dec 2007
After going to Norway in early Feb '08 I fancy going out to Greenland.

Wondered if anyone has any experience out there, suggestions etc or want to plan a trip with me?
 Burnsie 26 Dec 2007
In reply to davidlloydhudson:

keen to get out there - you got a profile ?
Removed User 27 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan:

I this not a tad contradictory from yourself, after the long thread a while ago, on advertising professional services on standard posts. I recall that you did not approve of subtle or otherwise reccommmendations of such professional services on these standard posts?
 Bruce Hooker 27 Dec 2007
In reply to davidlloydhudson:

I knew someone who went up that way once, his mate got eaten by a polar bear. He, the bear that is, ripped the tent open at night and dragged the poor bloke off... they heard his screams in the night for quite a while but could do nothing.

Apart from that it must be a nice place to visit.
 Michael Ryan 27 Dec 2007
In reply to Removed UserRichard Bentley:
> In reply to Removed UserMick Ryan:
>
> I this not a tad contradictory from yourself

It is commercial messages posted by businesses who haven't got a commercial profile that is the problem.
 Richard Baynes 27 Dec 2007
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:Mick, maybe people feel it's a bit against the ethos of fora (i failed Latin O-level) such as this to come straight in with a commercial suggestion... surely this is a place for climbers to get together to do their own thing rather than hire guides. Maybe if you pointed out that the guide/firm could help with logistics... instead of saying "he's your man" it would seem less intrusive... it seems to suggest people here aren't capable of doing the climbing bit without help... it also might put people off contacting the op with their own ideas if they think it's a commercial thing. Hope this helps
R
 TobyA 27 Dec 2007
In reply to davidlloydhudson: Ice climbing as in frozen waterfalls? In the area of Greenland I've been to and all the pictures I've seen since I've not seen those kind of climbs. Snow and ice mountain routes all over the shop, but I'm not sure about water ice. Al Powell (and Jon Bracey was it?) climbed in Greenland in winter a few years back. I'm sure Al could fill you in on their experiences if you ask. Read their article in Climb I think it was mainly very cold!
 Heike 28 Dec 2007
In reply to davidlloydhudson:

Hi,
I went to Greenland this year in May and it was fantastic. If you could narrow it down a bit more in terms of what you are looking for (i.e. snowy peaks, icy gullys, rock and where and when) I could give you some suggestions

Cheers

Heike
In reply to Heike:
Cool photos! You've set me off planning a first ascents trip to Greenland now! Is there many peaks left untouched in the Staunings? Amazing area.

NMM
 Heike 28 Dec 2007
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey:

Cheers! There are still some left - but slightly less then last year.... , particularly at the less accessible end in the south. It is really great.! (BTW Start saving now...)

Heike
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
> (In reply to davidlloydhudson)
>
> Paul is yo man: http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/profile.php?id=54467

Why not organise it yourself? I've done three trips to the Staunings and it's not that hard. Yes there are unclimbed peaks in the Staunings, but not so many these days. However very few peaks have had more than one ascent so new route possibilities abound. You just need to do the research!

 Heike 28 Dec 2007
In reply to Stephen Reid:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
> [...]
>
> Why not organise it yourself? I've done three trips to the Staunings and it's not that hard. Yes there are unclimbed peaks in the Staunings, but not so many these days.

Absolutely, it is way cheaper (we are talking thousands) and also more rewarding to do it yourself.
 Michael Ryan 28 Dec 2007
In reply to Richard Baynes:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)Hope this helps

It does help. Paul is a wealth of information as is Stephen from his post.

Solo or guided, always good to make contact with those who have experience.
rosie goolden 30 Dec 2007
In reply to:
I've been to Greenland 4 times - guiding & personal trips - & i can certainly give you useful info if you tell me a little of what you're looking for. Commercial is naturally expensive but i've some serious words of warning if you're planning your own trip and hiring logistics. It's an incredible place & i highly recommend going.
davidlloydhudson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Bruce Hooker: Should perhaps get a shot gun licence out there too then!
davidlloydhudson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to TobyA: Cheers Toby, do you know which copy of Climb it was in, I got the last 12 years worth but don't want to look through the lot to find the title!?
davidlloydhudson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Heike: Looking for big ice routes, maybe mixed...mid grade but challenging!

What did you do out there and how long did you stay?
Dave
davidlloydhudson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Richard Baynes: Hi Richard, in respect of your comments, this is exactly yhe reason I have placed this thread because I don't want to go down the commercial route! However, if the person recommended can help sort ligistical assistance that may help rather than take all required equipment out there. I would imagine I may have to hire some specialist equipment and anyone who can help or give advice in what stuff is needed out there, please do!
davidlloydhudson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to rosie goolden: Hi Rosie, email sent to you
davidlloydhudson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Northern Mountain Monkey: Sorry if I missed something but what photos do you refer?
satori 07 Jan 2008
 Bruce Hooker 07 Jan 2008
In reply to davidlloydhudson:
> (In reply to Bruce Hooker) Should perhaps get a shot gun licence out there too then!


A shotgun wouldn't have been much use.... they had a rifle in the party but it all happened so quickly. They were asleep in their tents when a bear ripped one tent open and dragged the poor bugger out. Ate him feet up apparently because he went on screaming for some time but they couldn't see him and I imagine they were a little scared... climbers are rarely experienced polar bear hunters.

Maybe there aren't many left today with global warming?
 Nick_Scots 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Bruce Hooker: Take a dog, good 'early warning system'.

Nick
hillmuncher 07 Jan 2008
In reply to davidlloydhudson:

Was out there end April/May last year. Organised it totally on our own (one partner), we were ski touring. Fantastic place.

Amazing place, I am really considering going back again next year.
davidlloydhudson 09 Jan 2008
davidlloydhudson 09 Jan 2008
In reply to Scott_vzr:
> (In reply to Bruce Hooker) Take a dog, good 'early warning system'.
>
> Nick

Now that is a good idea!
davidlloydhudson 09 Jan 2008
In reply to hillmuncher: Do you mind if I call you for some details regarding your experiences out there? Email me using the link if ok.

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