UKC

looking for a cross section of opinion, as i am new to climbing. would you use 2 or 3 snapgates or screwgates to attach to your anchors, and also how many screw gates would you buy for a standard rack, and what are their uses other than for attaching ur belay plate?

any advice, hints, help, suggestions welcomed!

thanks, sam

In reply to Sam1991:

this has been covered quite a bit but i take 2 or 3 screwgates...i usually anchor with the rope clove hitched around snap gates on 2 or 3 pieces....if a piece is a long way away i'll put a screwgate on it, the logic being that it is out of my control so a screwgate is preferred...and may indeed be clove hitched at my waist......same logic with a cordalette.

hope this helps.

In reply to Sam1991:


I usually use 1/anchor in a belay unless something can obviously knock the gate open, in that case I'll use a screwgate or back to back snapgates. Or better still, extend or move the gear so the problem no longer exists. Best bet is use 2 or a screwgate, 3 is overkill and could actually be counterproductive.


I usually have 1 loose, 1 for my belay device and occasionally 1 or 2 on longer slings, depends what I'm doing. I own and will take more if I expect I'll need them.


You'll quickly figure out what gear you're comfortable with using and where once you get going. You might end up leaving some behind, you might want to buy a little more. Enjoy figuring it out.
jk

In reply to Sam1991:

I tend to use two small screwgates if I'm using the rope to construct the belay. I use tiny Black Diamond krabs, which seem to work very well.

If I'm using a cordlette to make one big power-point I use a DMM Boa, as it is(was?) the beefiest around for such things.

I'm a bit paranoid about having snapgates near to me in the belay system as I worry they may get interferred with as I twist/move around etc. I do use them at the gear end of the belay anchor though.

In reply to Sam1991:

Don't totally understand what you are asking in the first half of the question. I use 2 screwgates-one big one for my belay plate, and another big strong one (get one with a high gate open strength) for the belay. I also take 2 spare wiregates which are used for the belay (or sometimes in other places). With this I have never needed anything extra.
My advice is get a book which shows anchor set ups, or go to the library and it's free (to borrow, not steal). This will be better than any explanation on here. Basically, I use my belay screwgate in whatever position is most appropriate-either on the main anchor, or to clovehitch to my rope loop etc.
My top tip is learn how to tie the rope which returns from an out of reach anchor into your rope loop-I use a fig 8 knot and it works very well-a good book (like Libby Peter's one published by MLTB) will show you this well. This is nice and simple to do, and doesn't need extra gear. Don't stack multiple clove hitches in one biner-it loads the biner in a way it's not designed or tested for.
Sam
Sam

In reply to Sam1991:

also take a look at this....tells you most of what you need to know:

http://www.chauvinguides.com/Anchoring.PDF

In reply to fivestar: Yeah Boas are great!

I keep screw gates to a minimum as they're heavy and bulky and could carry three snap gates that weight the same as one screw gate.

One for the belay plate

One to attach myself to the system

Maybe another if I'm using a magic plate


Attaching rope to anchors, snap gates every time. If I'm only attached to one piece of gear I'll use two back to back.