/ NEW ARTICLE: Just the Best VS in the World
Roger Wilko gives us a blow by blow account of one Arapiles' classic, Lamplighter, perhaps the best VS in the World.
ha i guessed correctly.....yes it is indeed a great climb.....excellent article as well.
I would encourage any uk climbers who want to improve their trad to get out there. Fantastic rock which just sucks up gear and loads of classics across the grade spectrum. The 1 star routes would no doubt get 3 in the peak. It's a long way to go, and i have been for just 5 days from london....but 2 weeks would be the perfect trip.
Not sure about short trips out there. Got to make good use of your CO2 allowance and jet lag can be quite an issue.
Great place and a great route.
But there has been one mystery that no one has ever been able to explain to me. At the piles is a Plaque on a boulder a stones throw form the Pines. It refers to the explorer who discovered Arapiles but does not refer to Australia, instead it refers to Australia-felix. ???
A few years ago I climbed a route which I think is called Plaque route which involved a mantelshelf move on to the plaque itself. I will try and upload the photo.
It is a great multipitch crag and I am off to Arapiles in April, but I miss gritstone. The first love (scratched) the deepest...
does he mean that anyone who climbs VS somehow isn't a real climber (whatever one of those is)?
yes it is.
"Above you lurks a repellent wide crack-cum-narrow chimney, which if you'd taken my advice and looked at the picture in the guidebook before you started you'd know wasn't the way"
Guess which way I went??? Pushed the grade up somewhat.
Admittedly there was a drought on and there should have been more rain. November should be fine as well.
Enjoyed Rog's article. I didn't do that climb - did Judgement Day twice instead!
What's Arapiles liable to be like in July/August? Heading that way this year and would love to do some routes there.
Elsewhere on the site
In tonight's Friday Night Video, we see Alex Honnold soloing Heaven 5.12d in Yosemite Valley. The route starts 3000ft above the... Read more
Climbing as a discipline offers plentiful metaphors for tackling life's obstacles - bravery, courage, climbing to... Read more
October 21, 2014 – Textile Exchange, a global nonprofit dedicated to sustainability in the apparel and textile industry,... Read more
The B.D.V. — short for Black Diamond Vertical — jacket and pants are Black Diamond’s most versatile climbing... Read more
This streamlined, midweight thermal layer has an incredibly speedy moisture wicking ability and dries ultra fast if it gets... Read more