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NEW ARTICLE: The Cheddar Chain - 9 Pitch Sport Route

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 Michael Ryan 01 Jan 2008
With a bit of planning, it's possible to link three multi-pitch sports routes in Cheddar to give nearly 250m of great climbing.

RichE gives an account of how here:

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=598
 Paul Robertson 03 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
This isn't a 9 pitch sport route. It's three completely separate routes.

The abseil approach by abseil from the top of Spacehunter buttress is not permitted and is clearly deprecated in the guide.

Any number of great days out can be had at Cheddar by climbing one or more routes but please use only the approaches and descents specified in the 2006 guide to the restored climbs.
In reply to Paul Robertson:

It's a very odd 'chain', isn't it? I can think of any number of days I've spent at one crag in which the routes could equally misleadingly be described as a 'chain'.
 AJM 03 Jan 2008
In reply to Paul Robertson:

> The abseil approach by abseil from the top of Spacehunter buttress is not permitted and is clearly deprecated in the guide.

Mick - a mention of this? Harness the power of the vast readership of UKC to get across the message that people who don't read approach instructions could get Cheddar banned again and all that?

A bit irresponsible, given its such a delicate access site..........

AJM
RichE 04 Jan 2008
In reply to Paul Robertson: I've had a re read of the guide book and can see your point. I'd really not want to contribute in any way to jeapordising the access at Cheddar as I recognise all the hard work that went into getting it and the value it adds to SW climbing.
My interpretation was that the routes in that area are mainly descended by abseil so descending Castles Made of Sand this way would be appropriate.
It looks like my enthusiasm for a good day out got the better of accurate guide book interpretation.
 Paul Robertson 04 Jan 2008
In reply to RichE:
I realise it wasn't deliberate flouting of the rules. No reason why you couldn't descend from Sunset Buttress via Shoot Gully and cut across Long Wall to the start of CMoF. It would only add a few minutes (and a few nettle stings).
 Jack Geldard 04 Jan 2008
In reply to everyone: Hi Guys,

If we can get an agreement on what to change in the article and if someone could type a blurb on to this thread, I'll cut and paste it and edit the article ASAP.

I've only been to Cheddar once (and it rained!) so I don't know the area, but I'm keen that the article is correct.

Jack
 Paz 04 Jan 2008
In reply to Paul Robertson:

You're not allowed to scramble down as if you were approaching spacehunter, then abseil the first three pitchs of the route (CMOS?), Isn't this the standard descent anyway?
 Paul Robertson 04 Jan 2008
In reply to Paz:
I don't think you are supposed to do that. I'd have to check with Martin.
I do know that the guidebook description for CMoS says "Descend via Shoot Gully or Jacob's Ladder", and that the top pitch of CMoS has no rings for abseil descent.
Also there are no rings to facilitate abseil descent from the base of Spacehunter buttress.

I'll try to get a definitive answer from Martin.
 Paz 06 Jan 2008
In reply to Paul Robertson:

Ta. So anyone who descended that way would very naughty then. It's also needlessly pedantic of me to say `but you can abseil off the new one', isn't it? Or can you abseil off in the Oct 1st- Mar 15 winter season only when that route's open?
 Paul Robertson 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Paz:
You mean Stone Cold Fever?
Yes, it has rings at the top, and the description says you can lower off the top pitch (if you have a 70m rope). Not quite sure why it is ok to ab down SCF but not CMoS.
 Paz 07 Jan 2008
In reply to Paul Robertson:

Yes, that's the route. I think it's just part of the new rules for the cheddar gorge project extended access, and could be fine in winter like I said. It's unlikely to be because of the danger of knocking loose rocks on to other climbers below.
RichE 09 Jan 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor:
I've been away for a few days so haven only just caught up with things. Jack (and others) how about adding the following to the bottom of my article:

In the discussion thread following this article it became clear that the descent of Castles Made of Sand by abseil is contrary to the access arrangements for Cheddar. As suggested by one of the posters, the same outing can be achieved by descending Shoot Gully (after climbing Space Tourist) then traversing across to the base of Goats ‘r’ Us. This would add little extra time and keep the whole outing within the access guidelines. If you’re inclined to link these three routes please use this approach rather than the one we took. RichE
 Jack Geldard 09 Jan 2008
In reply to RichE: If everyone is happy with that then I'll add that in. I'll leave it for a while longer first just to get a consensus.

Thanks to everyone for the input.

Jack
Sam L 11 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: It's only really a link in the same way that you can link three routes at any crag, (Wow, a three pitch link up at stanage, just descend at the end of each one...), but it sounds like a fun day!
Sam
 Paul Robertson 15 Jan 2008
In reply to Jack Geldard - Assistant Editor:

Having discussed this with Martin Crocker, the position of CC&G is that under normal circumstances climbers should use only the approved access routes.
So it would seem sensible to amend the article with the text offered by Richard.

Martin added:
"...if anyone is in doubt, needs advice, or wants to do anything different than is set out, they only have to contact the CC&G office: 01934 742343. I'd be happy to speak with them."
 Jack Geldard 31 Jan 2008
In reply to RichE: Article edited, post script added.

Thanks everyone for the input.

Jack

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