UKC

Hello.

Heading out to do this tomorrow, but don't have a guidebook (nor the opportunity to buy one).

I know what the first pitch looks like, so should be ok to identify it.

Question is, can someone describe the approach to the routes from the parking and also, are the second and third pitches of the route obvious?

Cheers, any help is very much appreciated.

Tom

Yeh, park at the rising sun anywhere on the roads. go down the lane pretty much opposite the pub. go through into the quarry area and follow the path which goes down with the quarry on your right (fly wall below you on left). descend the path that runs down the side of fly wall. on the way down there's a path on your right that descends towards the river steeply. get to the bottom and notice GO wall. the second pitch takes the obvious corner/groove straight above the belay. over the overhang and keep going up to the top. third pitch takes the easy wall/chimney above

In reply to Dr Caterpillar:

Hello Dr Caterpillar.

Thanks very much for all your help.
Tom

In reply to Queequeg: Aha - Mr Q. Was up at the Diamond yesterday and it reminded me of you guys. Have fun on King Kong. I recall it being a fantastic route.

In reply to Queequeg:
Hey Tom,
The guidebook is on sale in Chepstow, in the bookshop which is on the bottom end of the main street. I was in there on Tuesday and they had at least 3 copies. It is only 5 mins drive from the parking by the Rising Sun pub.
Have fun!

In reply to gimmer:

Hello Gimmer.

Thanks for your help.

Tom

In reply to AdrianC:

Hello Adrian.

What a great crag the Diamond is!
I bet it's all dry and loverly in Wanaka eh? Not so the Wye Valley I fear!

Enjoy your summer.
Tom

In reply to Queequeg: If you don't get a guide, the 2nd pitch follows the corner above the belay slanting slightly left and going round/through the roof into an obvious groove. The third pitch is an obvious corner with ivy on either side.

Ben

In reply to Queequeg:
Here in the Wye valley its either peeing it down or snowing at the moment. So much water that the Leap is now a sea cliff. Bring some wellies and go for a walk.

In reply to Queequeg: Snorkel and a Wetsuit may be require.

In reply to Dr Caterpillar: However with the recent rain this will be uber muddy. Instead go to the small pull out over looking the cliffs half a km on. Walk out onto the promentary on your left, walk to its tip and then scramble down the cliff - looks worse than it is. The path is obvious. You'll come out on a big ledge. Go to the far end and then drop down left. The walk along the bottom of the cliffs until you see the fecking big corner up GO... Then instead of King Kong, do surealist which is even better...

In reply to Queequeg:

Don't believe it people.

It was nice at Wintour's today, despite a bit of damp.
Cool crag.

In reply to Queequeg:

And....?

jcm

In reply to Queequeg:

looking at your notes for perfumed garden (which is E1 now BTW), it seems like it was cold and wet.

Sounds well nice!!!

In reply to The Pylon King:

Yeah fair point.

Neil's hot aches were a bit unprecedented.

But then a good day really, who needs perfect conditions eh?

In reply to Queequeg:


Yeah good on ya for getting out