UKC

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: wow, never seen that before...

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

how much is he paying for this?

Wow, did he climb it in a single day? And what about the camera man...

In reply to DuDér:


The Nose Solo in Under 12 Hours
By Dougald MacDonald

El Capitan, Yosemite National Park, California.

Hans Florine has broken the record for speed-soloing The Nose on El Capitan, climbing Yosemite’s centerpiece route in 11 hours 41 minutes. The past record was Dean Potter’s solo in 12 hours 59 minutes, during his one-day solo of both El Cap and Half Dome in 1999. Florine, a speed specialist, also holds the outright record on The Nose of 2 hours 48 minutes, set with Yuji Hirayama in 2002.

Florine used a combination of techniques for his speedy solo trip up El Cap, including self-belayed leading, unroped soloing and “Metroviching” — a term coined after Russ Mitrovich speed-soloed Zodiac without a rope, using daisy chains to stay clipped to at least two pieces at all times. He passed a Korean party of four near the Great Roof, taking time to fix several ropes above them and to retrieve some water for them from Camp VI.

For a full account and a few photos, visit http://hansflorine.com/NIAHD/.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

But of course the Germans hold the record.

"On October 8th 2007 the Huber brothers, Alex and Thomas, climbed the Nose of El Capitan in 2 hours 45 minutes 45 seconds, breaking their own speed record set four days previously by over 3 minutes."

http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=534

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: I like the blurb on Hans Florine's website where it says "Hans is obsesed with speed. He times everything - even diaper changes". Times everything? Hmm, bet his wife is deliriously happy

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Hi Mick,

When a team like the Hubers are climbing it in 2h 45m what techniques are they using?
I don't understand how someone like Hans Florine or Dean Potter , climbing alone, can be a full 9 hours slower?

The Ent

In reply to Enty:

I think the bottleneck is some of the aid sections especially where the soloist has to use a rope.

In reply to Enty:

You can find clips of the Huber bros record attempt on You Tube. You'll see why they're so damn quick.

One of them leads (in the loosest sense of the word, as there are many sections where gear is dispensed with or there are very long run outs - ie on many occasions, it's basically soloing with a back rope). Other jumars up when the leader has set up an intermediate running (literally) belay. It's like a constant whirl of movement up El Cap. Flipping phenomenal.

In reply to Cusco:

try here

VIDEO AND PHOTOS: Hubers on the Nose: 2:45:45
by UKC News


http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=557

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Aye a good effort by the hubers, without a doubt at the cutting edge of the sport today.

The nose is dirty, smells like piss and could do with a good clean up...but I
find it a bit ironic that potter of all folks should talk about ethics (not that i'm opening that can of worms again).

Try this youtube.com/watch?v=xPbsK3KsoFw&

I like how the second brother looks like he's dancing to the music when jumaring at the side of the nose!

This was on masters of stone.

In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: one word MEGA

In reply to kk43:

I bet Dan Osman could easily have beaten this record. RIP.