/ NEWS: Lisa Rands Climbs the Mandala V12, Bishop

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Michael Ryan - on 19 Jan 2008
Outstanding and Inspirational!

Wills Young reports

"Yesterday (Friday) afternoon, Lisa climbed The Mandala (v12), and is the first female to climb this line first done by Chris Sharma in 2000. The problem has gained almost mythical status as one of the most popular and most famous lines in the world, and for

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/
TRNovice on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Mick isn't this Lisa on the Mandala a while back or am I going out of my mind? The clip is quite short and at 3:12.

http://video.nbcsports.com/player/?id=142296

The video has been about for a while.

Of course maybe all Buttermilk boulders look pretty much the same I guess.

@ndyM@rsh@ll - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to TRNovice:

That really really really does look like the mandala.

TRNovice on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:

That's what I thought (well after the g/friend pointed it out anyway :-o).
tobyfk - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to TRNovice:

> Mick isn't this Lisa on the Mandala a while back or am I going out of my mind? The clip is quite short and at 3:12.

I think it is the Mandala. However if you look closely you'll see she steps off a pretty high pile of pads. As I believe the first move is the hardest, one explanation might be that - at the time the video was filmed - she had the whole thing wired except the start move.

Great link BTW. Not for the first time I fnd myself sitting in the office wondering why I don't jack it all in and move to Bishop.
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to TRNovice:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> Mick isn't this Lisa on the Mandala a while back or am I going out of my mind? The clip is quite short and at 3:12.
>
> http://video.nbcsports.com/player/?id=142296

"You can also see her on The Mandala, though she hasn't actually sent that one yet (ah the wonder of editing...)."

http://bigupproductions.blogspot.com/2007/07/lisa-rands-on-nbc.html
TRNovice on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Thanks Mick (and tobyfk) - makes sense - I guess, but a bit of a misleading clip nevertheless.

BTW - sorry if this diversion detracts from another stellar achievement by Lisa.
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to TRNovice:

On the contrary TR. Thanks - video now linked on the news page report.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=01&year=2008#n42237
Jenn on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Amazing achievement! Very inspiring. The Mandala looks like such a beautiful line.

Mick, do you know if this is the first female ascent of a V12?
TRNovice on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Found the clip from Lisa's site rather than BigUp.

Read the rest of Lowell's blog (and comments) on the clip and I agree that it wasn't really presented as an ascent (no mention of the pronblem, etc.). Speaking of BigUp, and given Lisa's profile, any idea if any of Lowell's, Call or Mortimer were around at the time of the ascent?
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to TRNovice:

Wills was and he said that he will have video available soon.

Not really a bouldering trainspotter Jen

Josune has done V11/12 I think as has Sabine Bacher and Claire Murphy, several have done V10, Jacinda Hunter has done several at that level

I think several have done V11 traverses.

Not too sure about the first women to do V12.

That video of Lisa on This Side of Paradise - what a line, what a fall, very impressive climbing.

I think Wills said E8 if you want a transaltion.
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Wills will know about women and V12, I'll give him a call later when he gets up.
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Old news from Gripped magazine...2003 I think.

"This spring, Bereziartu put together Solaris V12, a steep seven-move problem with dynamic snatches between bad crimps at Cueve de Balzala.

With Solaris, Bereziartu moves to the forefront of womenís bouldering along with Lisa Rands, the only other woman to bag a problem at the V12 grade (Chablanks at Hueco Tanks).

Three others: Claire Murphy of Britain, the Italian Stella Marchisio and the Swiss Yvonne Niederberger have all done problems thought to be hard V11 or soft V12. The race for the first female V13 is heating up."

http://www.gripped.com/News/23_june_2003/index.html
Oli - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Whats V12 equivalent to in font grades? 8a/8a+?
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

and report about Claire Murphy from 27 February 2007

Other problems I have done in the past:
V12
Sarah - Hueco Tanks, First Female Ascent 11/12
Chbalanke - Hueco Tanks, 11/12

V11
The White Face (FFA), Little Rock City, Tennessee

V10
Instinct Sit (FFA), Little Rock City, Tennessee
Flying Marcel - Hueco Tanks, First Female Ascent 10/11
Left Martini - Hueco Tanks
Full Service - Hueco Tanks, First Female Ascent
Power of Silence - Hueco Tanks


http://www.planetfear.com/news_detail.asp?n_id=6129
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Oli:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) Whats V12 equivalent to in font grades? 8a/8a+?

There used to be some dispute but I think v11 has settled at Font 8a and v12 at Font 8a+.
Oli - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Depends if V8+ exists or not... ;)
Jenn on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Cool - thanks Mick!

I never seem to be able to stay on top of stuff like this, yet I find it very interesting.

BTW - It's Jenn :-)
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Oli:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) Depends if V8+ exists or not... ;)

That's a figment of Simon Panton's imagination.

Sorry Jenn.

Oli - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
It makes sense though...
But anyway, to prevent further routes of topic, it doesn't really matter.
ads.ukclimbing.com
Jenn on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

No problem :-) Thanks for all of the info!
robin mueller - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Josune has done a Font 8C traverse:
http://www.climbing.com/news/hotflashes/josune224/

And a Font 8B+ traverse:
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews.lasso?l=2&keyid=33870

Though these are both font traverse grades, and she has claimed them both as ft 8B, or V13:
http://web.8a.nu/(wlw5vw55gdje0gioinx45z55)/scorecard/AscentList.aspx?UserId=149&AscentType=1&am...

Several women have climbed V12 (both traverses and straight-ups):

http://web.8a.nu/php/site2/rankings_all_time.php?ranking=&combined=&country=GLOBAL&sex=1
Paz - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

F*cking sweet! Did she just think `oh the conditions on gritstone are really really crap this winter, oh I know I'll go and do the mandala instead'? Respect.
Carnage - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

C'mon Mick, get it right - She's Clare Bell now.

Australian Tilly Parkins did Forced Entry V12 on the 45 degree wall in the Gramps a while back. Consensus for this is V12 (with Dai Koyamada taking V13 for it on his scorecard!).
Michael Ryan - on 20 Jan 2008
In reply to Carnage:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> C'mon Mick, get it right - She's Clare Bell now.

Claire Bell - got it.

> Australian Tilly Parkins did Forced Entry V12 on the 45 degree wall in the Gramps a while back. Consensus for this is V12 (with Dai Koyamada taking V13 for it on his scorecard!).

Keep them coming we may even be able to make a list.

Carnage - on 20 Jan 2008
robin mueller - on 21 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

> Keep them coming we may even be able to make a list.

From 8a.nu - women wot av done V12:

Josune Bereziartu
Claire Bell
Ashley Lloyd
Barbara Zangerl

plus

Lisa Rands
Tilly Perkins

And probably several others...

Michael Ryan - on 21 Jan 2008
In reply to robin mueller:

thanks robin
tobyfk - on 21 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

These Bishop highballs like This Side of Paradise .. are they top-roped first or just worked ground-up with lot of pads? (Impressive either way .. I'm just curious).

The Flying Giraffe - on 21 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Smashing good effort, what.

Amazing stuff, beast.
Michael Ryan - on 21 Jan 2008
In reply to tobyfk:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> These Bishop highballs like This Side of Paradise .. are they top-roped first or just worked ground-up with lot of pads? (Impressive either way .. I'm just curious).

Both I think Toby.

Adam Lincoln - on 21 Jan 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Was watching her on it earlier in the year. She could do it if Wills pushed her through the first move. Good persistance, wonder whats next?
Michael Ryan - on 22 Jan 2008
In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Some E-grades applied to some Bishop Highballs.

The Beautiful and Damned (Bardinis) -- E9 v12/13

Evilution Direct (Grandpa Peabody) -- E8 v11

Evilution Original (Grandpa Peabody) -- E7/8 v12

Flight of the Bumblebee (Secrets Area) -- E7+? v9

This Side of Paradise (Bardinis) -- E7 v10 E-rating siggested by Lisa Rands

Footprints (Grandpa Peabody) -- E6 v9

The Ninth (Pollen Grains) -- E6 v7.

The Big Easy (Grandpa Peabody) -- E5 v7

Mesothelioma (Pollen Grains) -- E4/5 v7


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