UKC

Crymtyphon - Compass Point

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 Owen W-G 29 Jan 2008
Hi all,
what condition are the pegs in on this route? Is there other gear? My guide doesn't give the impression of their being other pro. If so I get worried by old pegs by the sea!

I v much fancy it on a Cornwall trip this year. I've the Littlejohn selective guide - it is given E1/E2 5c. Fair?

Also, is it tidal and/or bird banned?
Ta muchley.
 Andy Say 29 Jan 2008
In reply to Owen W-G:
I did it in 1989 and the pegs were crap (As far as I can recall - and they may well have been replaced since the last century. I vaguely recall that you could get other gear in.
 Andy Say 29 Jan 2008
In reply to Owen W-G:
And I'd go with the CC guide with 5b. But E1/2 is probably fair.
OP Owen W-G 29 Jan 2008
In reply to Andy Say:

Thanks both. Any more recent ascents out there?
 AJM 29 Jan 2008
In reply to Owen W-G:

Did it about 18 months ago.

Pegs didn't seem too bad, generally. Found about three bits of trad gear and 6 pegs, something like that.

Its fine. You can rest your calves in the big pockets and hence can faff to your heart's content on the sequences. I found the crux to be a little bit above a pair of pegs close together, soon after you have moved left.

AJM

 Al Evans 29 Jan 2008
In reply to Owen W-G: Ace route but the pegs were crap when I last did it about 6 years ago. Take some small wires and be clever with them.
 Al Evans 29 Jan 2008
In reply to AJM: 6 pegs, bloody ell I think there were only two in it that I can remember?
 stevieo10 29 Jan 2008
In reply to Owen W-G: i had a good look at it last year before deciding against it as its slabby but pretty blank in between big rest pockets so micro stoppers and super lights would be ideal natural pro. don't remember seeing as many as 6 pegs but they can be hard to spot on culm coast (wouldn't trust them anyway round ere till your close enough to inspect em)

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