UKC

Looking out the window at the weather the grit may be hoared up, what would be the general opinion on the ethics of a mixed route in some of the less frequented quarries in the peak?

Indeed have any of these been done before?

Is kinder donwfall in? ;0)

In reply to smithaldo:

Hmm, are you a troll? I think a lot of people would get upset about the idea of using axes in a gritstone quarry.


Obscure Peak mixed routes....

Long history of Peak climbers scaring themselves half to death on Mam Tor.
There's some info on Mam Tor and Back Tor in the old Paul Nunn rock climbing in the Peak guide.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/databases/crags/craginfo.html?id=1341

It has a reputation for being scary and unpleasant though.

Snowed up rock routes have also been done in the Winnats Pass and on Kinder.

Choclate Blamange Gully In Horeshoe sort of counts!!

The other routes I can think of are ice not mixed.


This topic keeps coming up, it would be interesting to compile a definitive list of winter routes in the Peak. Waterfall Swallet, Green Death and and things like that.

In reply to Oceanic:

Hmm, are you a troll?
Have a look at the photos of Dovestones Quarry in the Chew Valley guide.

In reply to Simon Caldwell:


I don't have that guide, but I'm guessing that the climbers are on snowed up rock, not hoar frost.

So some winter routes in Dovestone Quarry to add to the winter routes list?

In reply to smithaldo: downfall has to be in the local canal (sea level) has been frozen over for a week, pretty solid today

In reply to smithaldo:

Don't go climbing with tools on any Grit stone, unless you are 200% sure it's not used for climbing.

If caught one would get hanged, by the Shefield and Manc mobs

In reply to smithaldo:

funny how your subject says "not kinder downfall" then in your post you ask if.....guess what.....kinder is in!

In reply to Anonymous:


Not when there's an MT pick positioned right next to their jewels. Have a look in the guide books, there's more than one picture of ice climbing on an established grit route.

To the OP, get a hold of the Lancs area newsletter. I posted a list of local winter venues not long ago.

In reply to johnj:

i cant understand what you just said - are you saying kinder is in??

In reply to OopzISlippedAgain: all i am saying is the last time we had a spell like this locally kinder was in, if i knew it was there, do you think i'd be telling ukc, i have no means of getting up there tommorow morning or even this evening, but if i did i wouldn't be posting this on ukc would i....

good luck;+)

In reply to OopzISlippedAgain:

Kinder is definitely not in. Went up for a look an hour ago, with the intention of climbing early tomorrow if it was frozen. The top river was mostly frozen, but there was no ice at all on the Downfall. I imagine if the days had been cooler and less sunny it would have formed.

In reply to Morgan Woods:

ever heard of irony?

In reply to Oli:

lol i wish i read this thread again before heading out onto kinder yesterday... i now see what you mean. far from in, i think lack of water has had a large part to play in it not forming - i cant believe how dry the plateau was looking!

Green Death (Millstone) has been done in rather wintery conditions. '72 or '73 I think. Have a look in the galleries here. You'll more than likely find it in Gordon Stainforth's.

In reply to OopzISlippedAgain: It was nice walking across a frozen plateau and not repetitively finding yourself knee deep in peat... Small consolation really. Did you get up early to have a look?

In reply to Alex Purser:


Despite the feeling that nobody should ever try and ice climb Green Death again, here is a shot from the early 1970s + one of Crumbling Crack


http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/67560882

http://www.pbase.com/chris_craggs/image/67560881


Chris