/ NEWS: Two Women Climb Brad Pit V10....Font 7c+

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Michael Ryan - on 19 Feb 2008
Sabine Bacher from Austria and Lucinda Hughes of Sheffield both climbed Brad Pit V10....Font 7c+ at the Stanage Plantation Boulders in the Peak District this week.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=02&year=2008#n42649
Glyn Jones - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Well done both
dhwsa - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

Has anyone got a link for a clip of the alternative 7c+ Brad Pit move? Rather than the 8b one on Hard Grit
Oli - on 19 Feb 2008
charl on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKCnow thats not something you hear everyday! brad pittt,ohhhh
seriously tho. well done both!
dhwsa - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Oli:

Thanks
Glyn Jones - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Oli: V9 on the vid - when did it get upgraded?
Serpico on 19 Feb 2008 - 78.144.168.172 whois?
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Well done Lu (and sabi).
Arran.
abarro81 - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:
started life as 8A, now 7C+ but some think 7C.. good effort anyway. (it's Pit with one t btw Mick)
TRNovice on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

"Well it's hard, but it's not that hard..."

Congrats to both :-)
Glyn Jones - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to abarro81:
> (In reply to Glyn Jones)
> started life as 8A, now 7C+ but some think 7C.. good effort anyway. (it's Pit with one t btw Mick)

Font grade?
abarro81 - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:
well it's not a route is it.
teddy - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones:

The way Myers did it in the mid 90's dynoing for the jug without getting his foot up onto the starting hold it is now thought to be Font 8b. The way the second ascent was done by Marc le Menestrel and 3rd ascent by Moon by getting the left toe up onto the starting hold is easier than 8b but I don't know the grade of this method. (It is given B13 in the Rockfax but this could mean anything!) Most subsequent ascents have been made by putting the left heel up onto the starting hold at the current grade of Font 7c+. This appears to be significantly easier than using the left toe to do the move as per Moon/ Hard Grit.
Glyn Jones - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to abarro81: just wanted to be sure
Glyn Jones - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to teddy: ta teddy
Ram MkiV - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Glyn Jones: Yeah font. The capital 'C' in 7C, 7C+, etc. denote it as a font bouldering grade as opposed to a french route grade which would have the 'c' as lower case.

V grades and font grades are equivalent:

V9=7C
V10=7C+

*end of public service

barros - currently messaging you....
Ram MkiV - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Steve Ramsden: guess i need to speed up.....
Ram MkiV - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to teddy: I thought marc minstrel had the vision with the crucial heel and did it in a couple of go's which was pretty special at the time? but he actually used the harder toe method?
teddy - on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Steve Ramsden:

Yes I believe Marc did it with a rockover using the toe on his second go. All the details are in OTE May 1997, the one with Moon on the front cover doing BP. Ben describes how to do the problem saying he watched Marc put his left foot by his left hand. I think it was only a few years later that the heel method came into existence. I don't know who first did it this way I just remember hearing it on the grapevine somewhere!
wyldworld on 19 Feb 2008 - mta242.listmail.net
In reply to Oli:

So its been done previously by a 'strong girl'?

lol!

BTW, is Big Tom's sit-start still unrepeated @ 8b?

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Jenn on 19 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Great news! Congratulations to both :-)
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: It would appear it has also had probably it's first Finnish ascent at some point: http://www.tominytorp.com/gallery.php?s=climbing&p=c076.jpg&l=1#pic
I'm not sure if Tommi is making a point or just a spelling mistake in calling it "Prat Pitt" though! :-)

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