/ NEWS: 18-year-old Katy Whittaker Flashes Nosferatu E6

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Michael Ryan - on 22 Feb 2008
The 2007 British Bouldering Champion 18-year-old Katy Whittaker has flashed Nosferatu E6 at Burbage South and also soloed West Side Story, E4 7a or Font 7b+, with the bold finish rather than traversing off.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=02&year=2008#n42695
CJD - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

blimey! Good stuff! I thought her comment about being 'rubbish' at dynos was interesting...
JM - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: So has Nosferatu been upgraded or has it been given E6 for the purpose of this article. Still a good achievement none the less. Which move on West Side Story happens to be english 7a?
Peter Walker on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to JM:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC) So has Nosferatu been upgraded or has it been given E6 for the purpose of this article.

E6 in the current Burbage guidebook, although the text does say it's at the bottom of the grade.
Andy Popp on 22 Feb 2008 - customer11038.pool1.Liverpool-MER6166-BAS0001.orangehomedsl.co.uk
In reply to Peter Walker:

Nosferatu has long been given E6, though it is soft.
Offwidth - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Peter Walker:

...and the previous one and rockfax. Its the only E6 I've come close to working (after belaying a mate on a clean headpoint).
Niall Grimes - on 22 Feb 2008
As the person who graded it in one guidebook at least, I thought it was E6, and harder as an onsigth than other E5s, eg White Wand, Track of the Cat, Pebble Mill, Great Arete, Curving Arete etc. It seemed like a hard and very committing route, and the landing is appaling.

Brilliant effort, well done Katy.
billb - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Niall Grimes: Roger that. I agree.
Paul at work - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

I know for a fact that Lisa Rands flashed the same route a few years ago, after belaying her partner on it. How do I know well my mate, Jim, and myself were roped in to spot for them both. I've just checked the date it was 28/09/02.

Still a very good effort from Katy.
Michael Ryan - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Paul at work:

Just talked to Wills Young, Lisa Rands' husband (Lisa was in in bed....it's early in California) and you are indeed correct Paul, after Wills had onsighted Nosferatu, Lisa did indeed go on to flash Nosferatu.

Thank you for date too!

Mick
Chris F - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Andy Popp: You here? get out while you can.
Offwidth - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Niall Grimes:

My leader was a ceratain stong german and he certainly took it serously. I of course wierdly found the E2 top-out the hardest bit ;-)
Michael Ryan - on 22 Feb 2008
Report now updated:


UPDATE by Mick Ryan: For the record. "Just talked to Wills Young, Lisa Rands' husband (Lisa was in bed....it's early in California) and after Wills had onsighted Nosferatu, Lisa did indeed go on to flash Nosferatu as Paul down the forums states on 28/09/02. Also a couple of years ago Lisa Rands also climbed West Side Story topping out rather than the traverse off right and also flashed Shock Horror at Ilkley, a guidebook E6.

Respect to both Katy and Lisa.
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Offwidth:

WEIRDLY ffs.

It's not that weird if you were trying the guidebook-described finish up the right arete, which IS pretty much the hardest part of the route. Of course everyone now just goes straight up.

jcm
Offwidth - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously: I think was trying the 'easy' finish (steep undercut moves just left of the right arete) :(
north country boy - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: the Traverse of left from West Side Story not right....

Good effort Katy.
Adam Long - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

Everyone I know who has done the right-hand finish to Nosferatu has found it easier than the dyno.
johncoxmysteriously - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Adam L:

Really?? You amaze me. We all thought it was desperate. Maybe we were being too pure somehow - that happens easily with those not-quite-natural lines.

jcm
Ram MkiV - on 22 Feb 2008
the dyno's about 5b....just a bit nervy
Ram MkiV - on 22 Feb 2008
In reply to Steve Ramsden: oh good work Whittakers btw, sounds like a quality couple of days.
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Al Evans on 23 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: Katy is a lovely girl and has been climbing well for years. She used to compete against my daughters and went to school with a niece, when I last met her she was kind enough to ask after Nicky who had been very Ill and had to give up competitions.
Well done Katy, keep the faith, and bash that little brother of yours if he is not taking it seriously enough yet :-) I mean Braille Trail, is that all he can do :-)
Keeg - on 23 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:
Very impressed.
(marktomlinson) on 23 Feb 2008 - 241.32.125.91.rb3.adsl.brightview.com
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

Nosferatu not E6. It doesnt count if you dont top out WSS.
Keeg - on 23 Feb 2008
In reply to (marktomlinson):
I think you'll find that the OP says that she DID top out WSS and as has been mentioned above Nosferatu does get E6 (whether you agree with the grade is somewhat beside the point). If you're going to be pedantic I find it's best not to be a tit.
Franco Cookson OLD - on 23 Feb 2008
In reply to (marktomlinson): you climbed it?
Michael Ryan - on 23 Feb 2008
In reply to (marktomlinson):
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC)
>
> Nosferatu not E6. It doesnt count if you dont top out WSS.

And Mark, let's not forget your

"FFS how is this a 'battle'?"...comment... on the Reservoir Dogs news item thread.

There is a pattern emerging here of negative comments which is fair enough.

But when Nial Grimes comes on here and Andy Popp and they say it is E6 I'm inclined to believe what they say.

abarro81 - on 23 Feb 2008
In reply to (marktomlinson):
Now then Mark, whilst Nosferatu isn't really worth E6 for tallies like me it probably is for shorter peeps like Katy W. Since it's E6 in all the current guides for the area (rockfax, bmc, on peak rock) it's fine to take the grade; she certainly wont be the first to take it with its status as the archetypal 'intro grit E6' (ie possibly E5). Anyway, desolation angel is just as easy so maybe nosferatu is E6 (or I just only pick overgraded E5s to do)? Let's not forget that some punters fall off the 5b dyno..

As we all know, WSS should be topped out.. Maybe Andy T could send those women who've previously scuttled off left some of his Tip-Ex;)

Anyway, nice work Whittakers - Warm as Love looks frickin horrific.
(marktomlinson) on 24 Feb 2008 - 241.32.125.91.rb3.adsl.brightview.com
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC: What was wrong with that comment? I wasn't saying 'Dogs isn't desperate, just that two people trying to do a route isn't a battle. I just objected to what seemed to be like the 'Ste Mac vs Sharma' thing you did a while back.
(marktomlinson) on 24 Feb 2008 - 241.32.125.91.rb3.adsl.brightview.com
In reply to abarro81: What punters? Where? Dont know what you're talking about...
telemarker - on 24 Feb 2008
In reply to Mick Ryan - Editor - UKC:

E5 or E6 its still pretty strong work.

Keep on it
S
simes303 - on 24 Feb 2008
In reply to abarro81:

Desolation Angel is VERY easy for E6!!!

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