/ NEWS: 18-year-old Katy Whittaker Flashes Nosferatu E6
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=02&year=2008#n42695
blimey! Good stuff! I thought her comment about being 'rubbish' at dynos was interesting...
E6 in the current Burbage guidebook, although the text does say it's at the bottom of the grade.
Nosferatu has long been given E6, though it is soft.
...and the previous one and rockfax. Its the only E6 I've come close to working (after belaying a mate on a clean headpoint).
Brilliant effort, well done Katy.
I know for a fact that Lisa Rands flashed the same route a few years ago, after belaying her partner on it. How do I know well my mate, Jim, and myself were roped in to spot for them both. I've just checked the date it was 28/09/02.
Still a very good effort from Katy.
Just talked to Wills Young, Lisa Rands' husband (Lisa was in in bed....it's early in California) and you are indeed correct Paul, after Wills had onsighted Nosferatu, Lisa did indeed go on to flash Nosferatu.
Thank you for date too!
My leader was a ceratain stong german and he certainly took it serously. I of course wierdly found the E2 top-out the hardest bit ;-)
UPDATE by Mick Ryan: For the record. "Just talked to Wills Young, Lisa Rands' husband (Lisa was in bed....it's early in California) and after Wills had onsighted Nosferatu, Lisa did indeed go on to flash Nosferatu as Paul down the forums states on 28/09/02. Also a couple of years ago Lisa Rands also climbed West Side Story topping out rather than the traverse off right and also flashed Shock Horror at Ilkley, a guidebook E6.
Respect to both Katy and Lisa.
It's not that weird if you were trying the guidebook-described finish up the right arete, which IS pretty much the hardest part of the route. Of course everyone now just goes straight up.
Good effort Katy.
Everyone I know who has done the right-hand finish to Nosferatu has found it easier than the dyno.
Really?? You amaze me. We all thought it was desperate. Maybe we were being too pure somehow - that happens easily with those not-quite-natural lines.
Well done Katy, keep the faith, and bash that little brother of yours if he is not taking it seriously enough yet :-) I mean Braille Trail, is that all he can do :-)
Nosferatu not E6. It doesnt count if you dont top out WSS.
I think you'll find that the OP says that she DID top out WSS and as has been mentioned above Nosferatu does get E6 (whether you agree with the grade is somewhat beside the point). If you're going to be pedantic I find it's best not to be a tit.
> Nosferatu not E6. It doesnt count if you dont top out WSS.
And Mark, let's not forget your
"FFS how is this a 'battle'?"...comment... on the Reservoir Dogs news item thread.
There is a pattern emerging here of negative comments which is fair enough.
But when Nial Grimes comes on here and Andy Popp and they say it is E6 I'm inclined to believe what they say.
Now then Mark, whilst Nosferatu isn't really worth E6 for tallies like me it probably is for shorter peeps like Katy W. Since it's E6 in all the current guides for the area (rockfax, bmc, on peak rock) it's fine to take the grade; she certainly wont be the first to take it with its status as the archetypal 'intro grit E6' (ie possibly E5). Anyway, desolation angel is just as easy so maybe nosferatu is E6 (or I just only pick overgraded E5s to do)? Let's not forget that some punters fall off the 5b dyno..
As we all know, WSS should be topped out.. Maybe Andy T could send those women who've previously scuttled off left some of his Tip-Ex;)
Anyway, nice work Whittakers - Warm as Love looks frickin horrific.
E5 or E6 its still pretty strong work.
Keep on it
Desolation Angel is VERY easy for E6!!!
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